Max32

Sure, i just cant believe thats the issue tho. as i said it started right after i messed with the plenum and what not, hot-side failure somewhere inbetween that would be the weirdest coincidence. i did some research on the turbos and judging by the compressor housing they look like old HKS GT2530s... dont know if they even still have the ceramic exhaust turbines

Jup, i did... pics taken with an endoscope so not the best but id say the compressors look alright. They do both spin at idle w/o weird noises or smth. could only reach the front turbine with my hand, feels fine/ has hardly any play in it.

Update 2: That wasnt the problem either, hardlines completely bypassed and boost still wont rise over 0,6ish bar. Any more ideas somebody...?

Nope, think i got it tho. Running the wastegate bleed line all open or completely closed (where the solenoid wouldve been) only does like 0,1bar difference in boost. also checked the bleed pressure in the line itself -> equally like +-0,1 bar. My best guess at this point is that the hardline part under plenum smh mustve got mangled and is blocked. Ironically enough these lines are the only ones i didnt touch or renew while working under the plenum. Guess ill bypass the hardline part now and go plenum -> T-Connector -> (1) hardline to WG behind engine and (2) vent line back into intake.

Get an endoscope and look under the plenum/ on top of starter motor, if you have coolant (stains) there its one of your silicone hoses.

Update: Took things apart again, checked all the air chamber hoses, pressure tested the WG control line, tested the manifold with smoke+2bar, soapy water, pressure alone - nothing. No hissing, no bubbles, no smoke visible, WG line holds pressure forever, gates open as they should at ~0,6-0,7bar when putting pressure directly onto them. Also checked the BOV line, properly hooked up, gets full manifold pressure + and -. A bit of blowby thru crankcase, thats all. What i found out is that the stock gauge is lying, cars actually running at 0,6-0,7bar with unrestricted WG bleed tho, yet the actuators are operating, see attached video of a short pull. I dont get it. Any more ideas? I didnt paper over anything. i got the car running without restrictor, +-1bar, same turbos, same ECU, same fueling system, same everything and it ran fine like that for the last couple years. I LOST a bit of pressure somewhere while taking off and reinstalling the plenum and cant seem to find out where, thats all. 124125.mp4

My mate has an R33 with the exact same boost levels when he forgot to hook up the solenoid. The spring opens at the pressure the manual states, you have tot take into consideration its not just boost thats working the gates but exhaust backpressure too.

Thanks for your input mate. the solenoid is only a "safety feature" that doesnt do much after all. it wouldnt open on my car which led to boost staying at 02-0,3bar, just bypassing it leads to "stock" boost 0,7bar with restrictor, about 1 bar without restricting the airflow back into the intake pre turbo (blue tube in diagram) or am i dead wrong somewhere here? i wouldnt focus too much on WG or fueling anyways tbh, as mentioned didnt do anything to those systems and it ran for the last ~4 years like that without noticeable issues. oil always looked fine, no smoking, overheating or popping... i feel like it has been running healthy enough with the setup the japanese dudes before me installed. Whats your opinion on the pressure drop off on the manifold test? guess ill check turbos next, then pressure test the system from MAF till plenum, maybe the rubber hose from IC to that metal piece under the battery tray got loose from massaging the hose between that and plenum out.

For the solenoid: All i did was remove that cause it wasnt opening anymore, just connected the two lines directly so it should run at "no-restrictor" boost all the time. What do you mean by fuel trim? afr? cant tell that, stock ecu, no external gauge. Judging by the plugs car does run a bit rich, didnt mess with that tho and as stated it did make boost before. forgot to properly tighten a clamp at the fuel tube under the plenum, fixed that and still same issue. Didnt check the turbos yet, if one was broken it wouldnt make boost at all as it would leak through the broken one, wouldnt it? Or at least should have a noteable delay in spool up...

Hi there, so i recently took off the intake manifold on my R32 GTR to fix a coolant leak. replaced all the coolant hoses with silicone ones, all new HKS metal gaskets + some extra hylomar sealant around the throttlebody ones, new oem vacuum hoses and clamps as well. Everything went pretty okay until going on test drive. Somehow car hardly makes positive boost now. Obvious thing to think -> i f**ked something up on reinstallation, so i pressure tested the manifold this weekend, see attached video... never done this before but to me that pressure loss seems pretty much normal over the TB's, valves, and so on isnt it? Engines overall in unknown condition, unopened in my ownership. No other obvious hissing noises, only thing i found is a slightly leaking PCV valve, that must have leaked before i worked on the manifold tho and it did make boost before. new one is on order anyways. turbo spool up is not delayed or anything... got the car with some probably old af HKS turbos that always kicked in between 4.5-5k, thats still the case it just doesnt go over like 0,2mmhg on the stock boost gauge anymore. idle is smoother than ever. also tried spraying break cleaner around the mating surfaces of the intake with the car running, no reaction. I dont have a boost solenoid anymore, dump pipe goes straight back into the intake with no restriction. no external boost controler or anything, stock ECU afaik, wastegates work like theyre supposed to according to the manual when pressurizing directly onto them... should make ~1bar. Any ideas? The car has to be f**king with me if the problems not actually on or around the manifold/ air chamber area as i didnt do work on anything else and it ran just fine before... i just cant seem to find it. i was thinking maybe some electrical error but the stock ECU has no more ways to mess with boost control in my setup has it? only thing it could do is pull timing which generally shouldnt affect boost, right? opinions and input on what to do or check next are appreciated, thanks in advance Max 214125.mp4

I have a greddy kit as well, one with only dash fittings tho. Can upload the instruction manual somewhere if you want. That includes instructions where to hook up what.

Thanks for the answer mate, I figured this would be a tough one lol Also considering delivery times and that i only have a floor jack + stands i think ill stick with the OEM plenum just for now and switch that when its rebuild time and the engine will come out anyways.

Hi, it seems my 32 GTR has a coolant leak somewhere under the plenum so i was thinking to upgrade to the Nismo intake manifold as it will have to come off to fix that anyways. Will that fit in an otherwise pretty much stock engine bay? Looks like it could be pretty tight around cyl 6/ clutch cylinder with the nismos improved runner. Does anyone have one fitted/experience with it and could give some input? Cheers, Max

Hey, installed a Greddy filter relocation w cooler on my 32 last weekend, tightened the sandwichplate hand tight aaaaand of course now its dripping when car is warm. I know its an old topic but anyone has a recommended torque for that mf? Really dont want to take it apart a third time. Any input would be appreciated Cheers

Found these guys recently, they might be able to help you out https://www.sheptrans.com/product/sheptrans-transfer-case-rebuild-nissan-skyline-gt-r-r32-r34/