D-limo

Meridian Motorsport have universal ones for like $5-$600 a set I think

These can be had for under 20k now... The problem is finding a manual one. Have seen a couple of drift examples and they can look pretty damn good when done properly. http://www.importbitz.com/cars.htm JZX100's seem to be dropping in price too. The main downer with x90's and x100's is the interior... And x81's for that matter

R32... Should be straight swap. My mate was running one in his Laurel. Unsure if any tweaking is needed.

Amuse GT1 Qualifying tyres... 49.952 NO NOS!!!! Could prob go at least 1/2 a second quicker with another 20 laps or so

Hey just wondering if anyone has had experience with trying to remove little spots where the clear coat has worn through... They are about the size of a pin head and cover the bonnet, roof and boot The car is white (c33 Laurel). I'm suspecting it has something to do with the car being left unwashed and outside for many months... Will a light cut and polish work? Any products that someone can reccomend?

Respecta for works 510... What is she running?

The rust you speak of probably means the car lived most of its life at a coastal area.. Unless if snow can be partially atributed?? A good idea with any fresh import is to have a professional detailer go crazy on it (light cut and polish etc).. Will come up a treat. And of course new engine/gearbox fluids are a must.

Got a hold of a working RB20DE AFM to swap to see if my AFM is the cause of my current engine drama's... Will this work? Sorry if this is the wrong section..

I can get genuine nissan parts pretty cheap. So I would have just re-sold it for what I payed. Luckily one of I my mates has a spare RB20DE AFM from his Ceffy wich I will try this weekend.. I'm hoping RB20DE and DET's run the same AFM..??? I'll go start a thread now actually.. I so hope this works... Cause I live out woop woop (Near Beerwah) I'll be up for a hefty towing fee to M'dore

Space savers are freakin heay for the size they are... How often do you get a punture in normal driving conditions? Like once every 3 years. Pfft. Not worth the weight in my opinion. Just get one of your mates to drop a spare off for you. And they are called space savers for a reason..

Why do sick c**ts drive DR30's HR31's are good cars. A HR31 coupe I would suggest is a very good first car. It's the Aus spec R31's I can't stand Then there's Vl's....

Any rex or evo are good cheap fast cars.. R32 GT-R's seem sorta slow for some reason. The developers got alot of things wrong in my opinion. i.e DR30 with 280ps only cutting a low 14 sec 1/4 mile on qualifying tyres Definatly save up the money for the black race cars as mentioned above.. makes that point in the game much easier and is the only time they are available in that color (its a sweeet angry matt black). Wait for an Autech version Stagea to pop up... And spend money on that instead of the regular one. The Tofu Trueno is alot of fun... Revs out to 10,000 Best drivers car on the game I reckon is the Powerhouse Amuse S2000 GT-1 or whatever its called(The expensive one) with biggest turbo u can fit and soft tyres.... awesome car. If you want to set something up for drift start with an s13. Stage 2 turbo(Plus all supporting mods), stage 2 weight, economy road tyres, racing suspension- around 2.8 and 1.8 F/R camber. stabilizers 5. drop it on its nuts. and play around with the spring rates from there. A second hand wheel shop opens up somewhere along the game.. Give access to some oldschool rims like SSR Longchamps and Black Reverse mesh.

BN Sports demo cars...? JZX100 is the hotness Unsure about rules on this, you may want to check it out further with an importer. http://secretdrift.ipbhost.com/index.php?s...t=0entry53256

waghoons

Damn that is hot... Ride hight looks sweet.. Time for dish

could be a short from dodgy wiring install...(Battery to boot relocation) If it stilll happens after your new batt may be an idea

Looks hot with wing on... As people said maybe take it off IF you lower it more. Hot as it sits now with the wing on never the less.

Oath to that..

OPtion 1 have simular kits that are made in the U.S for $550.. No paint http://secretdrift.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=2675

A guy I went to school with made one in yr 12.. Looked the goods. Said he tested it on an air compressor and it worked... If you can get the spring rate right and used the right metal I spose it could be done effectively. There are work shops out there that will make you a custom one as well.

aww only a few seconds of the battle with the DR30

What ever gave you that idea?.... Oh yeah, must be the pic of a crankshaft sitting in the back yard Good to hear she running sweet... Must be itching for her to be all run in and tuned so you can start having some fun

If your considering a VL you probably don't deserve a DR30..

Go the older model DR30 sedan.. As far as I'm aware body panels should be interchangable with Aus spec MR30's.. FJ and GZE are both awesome engines... Steering feel will be slightly better in the 86 due to R30's running steering box. Then there's the DR's indipendant rear wich seems to work well even though its a trailing arm set up. My mate uses premium with no hassels DR30 as a daily for the win.... nothing like the oldschool grunt of the FJ when you knock it back a gear Bang for buck u cant loose What sort of figures are you looking at for a clean DR30 landed if you don't mind me asking?

That one in the centre looks suspiciously like the off tap blue one that is for sale at Goldie atm http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=102340&hl=dr30