tsuokun

On my box I just put the welsh plugs in and after that the annoying slipping was gone. I don't think there was a huge difference in the response time to manual shifts, but since the rubber band effect was gone, the delay that was left didn't bother much. Here's a vid from the last track day I did with the auto box. I mainly use 2nd but in the tight right hander I drop it to 1st. Happily drove it for about 60 000kms with the plugs before finally going to stick shift.

I have had great results with The Cat soap. It is called Le Chat Savon de Marseille. I have no idea of availability in AU but I am sure there are similar products. The one I used is non-scented. I am guessing it is just pure "Marseille style" soap with no nonsense added. Used a piece of moist wax sponge to first rub the soap a bit and then rub the steering wheel. Then a wet towel to rinse the soap off. I didn't know my steering wheel had red stitching.. and the texture of the leather changed for the better too (matte).

Oh my god that head looks horrible. I would just disassemble it and clean everything up and hope there is no corrosion on the lobe surfaces. It does NOT look promising, and what about the rest of the valve train; the springs, lifters etc.. A couple of thoughts (and personal opinions, others may or may not agree): - I hope you are using some assembly lube or at least motor oil when putting that thing back together. - If you leave it sitting for a while, protect exposed surfaces with something, WD-40, CRC 5-56, motor oil (and clean up when continuing) Those machined surfaces can catch rust in minutes. - Just as Duncan said, always assume there is some shit left over from the machine shop. Always do a proper, thorough check with a good lamp for any left over swarf etc. I found pieces of the old valve guides in an oil channel by shaking the head and hearing rattling noise. Scary shit.

Sounds interesting. Could you elaborate on your project in whole? I mean what sort of setup are you aiming for. I would love to have some way of getting Arduino to talk via Consult and then display different parameters on a small display, without having to always pull out a laptop to check something small. On the topic; I am way out of my league here, but could it be that you first need to (or especially DON'T) initialize the ECU connection and then sort of "switch" to HICAS side? If I recall correctly, the Nissan DataScan SW has the ECU and HICAS very separate, meaning that you cannot just switch from one to another on the fly, but you need to reconnect to talk to HICAS. Also, have you asked Matt at Nistune forum?

You probably knew this but just in case: Did you remove the considerably larger spigot that supports the turbine from the crank first? If not, I would not be surprised if that would give you headaches. This guy, circled very poorly in the pic needs to go And the crank should look like this afterwards.

Don't sell it. Ship it back here. (seriously, with these prices..) I would say its more of an visa issue than job issue. Kind of an egg and hen thing and a good sprinkle of luck to boot. Finding a job here while living in another country is very challenging. Living here and finding a job in the IT sector might not be, but then again, you cannot really live here if you don't have a job. If you want to make it your goal, study, practice and learn the language, be prepared to think moving here in a time frame of several years and actively make contacts as much as you can (both professional and personal). But I do also want to add that this is far from the dreamland many (me included) imagine and there are a lot of hurdles and embarrassments on your way. (and of course a lot of good things, both, as in every country). I suppose the "easy" and comfortable way would be something like wiggling yourself working for a company that has an office here and work your way from there.

A bit late for the party. I got a RB25 box that had done some 160k KMs when I installed it. After the swap I decided to first go with some Castrol 75w-90/140 something-a-rather (recommended type anyway) and it was crunchy as hell. Synchros were definitely on the evening side. So I put in the MT-90 Redline and while it still tends to give you a bit of a nudge when shifting, it works like a charm now for the most of the time and allows easy mid-powerslide shifts from 2->3. There is talk of HW and LW fluids here, but are these two different from the MT-90 I'm using?

Agreed with Dobz. Cannot say I see anything unnerving there. Would love to hear the reasoning behind your friends' remark. FYI two things; Even if you somehow adjust everything on both sides to same degree and minute, the moment you bounce the suspension, everything will likely be off by a couple of minutes again. Rubber bushings. Things being in the red does not equal things are bad. Lower any car and you get christmas theme on your alignment sheet.

How about a meet up on a PA somewhere in shutoko at some point?

Old topic, apologies. Did you find a place? I am running Nistune though. Looking for a shop that could at least dyno the thing and listen for knock etc.

Well, glad you have your car back on the road again. I installed an S13 Kaaz 2way on my ER34 and just drilled out the diff centre holes to accept the bigger bolts. I also transferred the ABS rings from the ER34 stubs to the S13 5-bolt stubs. Going to go Nismo at some point so this was good information. Need to check things carefully. Cheers.

Something doesn't add up here. My car is factory 1999 GTT A/T and it had the 13mm bolts. It had an VLSD. So this makes me think that if the Nismo P/N really matches and the unit was brand new unopened, that something went wrong somewhere down the line at Nismo (highly unlikely of course). I suppose it would make more sense the other way around: the car had 12mm bolts it and Nismo came with 13mm. About the flanges: I believe all Nismo LSDs come with the drive shaft ends/stub axles/flanges so unless they don't match the driveshaft bolt pattern (in ER34 this should be 5 in a star shape), there shouldn't be any problems with them. Note that you cannot use the original VLSD stubs with the Nismo, probably the splines don't match and one of them is too long anyway, so if your Nismo LSD didn't come with the stubs, then no wonder there's trouble.

I would like to add the ridiculous length of the oil feed, with a very rough 90­° machined/drilled bend in the block, right after the pickup trunk. I think I measured about 50-60cm of pipe and channel from the oil pan to the pump. Perhaps it is not a killer but it most likely will not help either. When rebuilding my 25, I did what I could to that corner and ported the oil pump too while I was at it.

Apart from cutting the struts towers open, what options does one have to address this? I don't see any signs of corrosion there yet and would rather not see it later either.

Anyone still in here, Tokyo area perhaps?