tsuokun

I would like to add that at least in my car, the RPM gauge shows around 200RPM above of what I can see at nistune.

Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank. In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice. Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.

Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.

Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit. When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?

Any updates on this? Although not a stroker, nor built especially loose, my car has the exact same symptoms. Although I feel they were not there to begin with. Since rebuild with forged parts I have done about 40k kms and it feels like during the last 15k or so, the oil consumption has gotten progressively worse. Compression test showed - what I thought at least - similar 10-10.5bars in each hole without oil. I have not yet done blowby test though, due to limited garage access. #2 plug is the looks the most foul and that was the one with 10bars. Nothing in the breather tank. I only recently disabled PCV and left only the hoses running from the valve cover via smallish tank to turbo intake pipe there and did some mildish 2nd gear pulls so the car was definitely on boost (1.4bar or so). Removed a hose from the tank and it was basically dry - meaning, the wipe I used had basically no oil on it. Last time I checked, the turbo and IC piping seemed dry as well (will have to see about that again after those pulls). For the past year and a half though, the car has been driven like a granny would for 99.99% of the time, since it mainly serves the purpose of carrying the family around nowadays. A lot of slow, stop and go city driving and most of the trips it barely sees any boost, but gets up to temp properly every time. Although there can be weeks it is not started at all. The car does not smoke, or at least not that I can see. (CAT is in place though). There is slight visible sweating at the Ex cam cover seal and I recently tightened the oil cooler lines as there was some mist on them too. It runs and idles extremely nicely and feels all around healthy. Like TurboTapin, I too am suspicious of my turbo. I have had IC pipes pop out from 1.6-2bars of boost a half a dozen times during the years. The turbo is a HX35/40 hybrid. So, a very similar mystery. Around 1500kms and a litre of oil surely cannot disappear to thin air. Apologies for the wall of text, not sure if any of the above is useful for best guesses/things to check next.

I for one would love to see this. Save the HICAS locker and subframe inserts, I haven't done anything to the rear suspension. Factory camber adjustment is dialed all the way out though.

On my box I just put the welsh plugs in and after that the annoying slipping was gone. I don't think there was a huge difference in the response time to manual shifts, but since the rubber band effect was gone, the delay that was left didn't bother much. Here's a vid from the last track day I did with the auto box. I mainly use 2nd but in the tight right hander I drop it to 1st. Happily drove it for about 60 000kms with the plugs before finally going to stick shift.

I have had great results with The Cat soap. It is called Le Chat Savon de Marseille. I have no idea of availability in AU but I am sure there are similar products. The one I used is non-scented. I am guessing it is just pure "Marseille style" soap with no nonsense added. Used a piece of moist wax sponge to first rub the soap a bit and then rub the steering wheel. Then a wet towel to rinse the soap off. I didn't know my steering wheel had red stitching.. and the texture of the leather changed for the better too (matte).

Oh my god that head looks horrible. I would just disassemble it and clean everything up and hope there is no corrosion on the lobe surfaces. It does NOT look promising, and what about the rest of the valve train; the springs, lifters etc.. A couple of thoughts (and personal opinions, others may or may not agree): - I hope you are using some assembly lube or at least motor oil when putting that thing back together. - If you leave it sitting for a while, protect exposed surfaces with something, WD-40, CRC 5-56, motor oil (and clean up when continuing) Those machined surfaces can catch rust in minutes. - Just as Duncan said, always assume there is some shit left over from the machine shop. Always do a proper, thorough check with a good lamp for any left over swarf etc. I found pieces of the old valve guides in an oil channel by shaking the head and hearing rattling noise. Scary shit.

Sounds interesting. Could you elaborate on your project in whole? I mean what sort of setup are you aiming for. I would love to have some way of getting Arduino to talk via Consult and then display different parameters on a small display, without having to always pull out a laptop to check something small. On the topic; I am way out of my league here, but could it be that you first need to (or especially DON'T) initialize the ECU connection and then sort of "switch" to HICAS side? If I recall correctly, the Nissan DataScan SW has the ECU and HICAS very separate, meaning that you cannot just switch from one to another on the fly, but you need to reconnect to talk to HICAS. Also, have you asked Matt at Nistune forum?

You probably knew this but just in case: Did you remove the considerably larger spigot that supports the turbine from the crank first? If not, I would not be surprised if that would give you headaches. This guy, circled very poorly in the pic needs to go And the crank should look like this afterwards.

Don't sell it. Ship it back here. (seriously, with these prices..) I would say its more of an visa issue than job issue. Kind of an egg and hen thing and a good sprinkle of luck to boot. Finding a job here while living in another country is very challenging. Living here and finding a job in the IT sector might not be, but then again, you cannot really live here if you don't have a job. If you want to make it your goal, study, practice and learn the language, be prepared to think moving here in a time frame of several years and actively make contacts as much as you can (both professional and personal). But I do also want to add that this is far from the dreamland many (me included) imagine and there are a lot of hurdles and embarrassments on your way. (and of course a lot of good things, both, as in every country). I suppose the "easy" and comfortable way would be something like wiggling yourself working for a company that has an office here and work your way from there.

A bit late for the party. I got a RB25 box that had done some 160k KMs when I installed it. After the swap I decided to first go with some Castrol 75w-90/140 something-a-rather (recommended type anyway) and it was crunchy as hell. Synchros were definitely on the evening side. So I put in the MT-90 Redline and while it still tends to give you a bit of a nudge when shifting, it works like a charm now for the most of the time and allows easy mid-powerslide shifts from 2->3. There is talk of HW and LW fluids here, but are these two different from the MT-90 I'm using?

Agreed with Dobz. Cannot say I see anything unnerving there. Would love to hear the reasoning behind your friends' remark. FYI two things; Even if you somehow adjust everything on both sides to same degree and minute, the moment you bounce the suspension, everything will likely be off by a couple of minutes again. Rubber bushings. Things being in the red does not equal things are bad. Lower any car and you get christmas theme on your alignment sheet.

How about a meet up on a PA somewhere in shutoko at some point?

Old topic, apologies. Did you find a place? I am running Nistune though. Looking for a shop that could at least dyno the thing and listen for knock etc.

Well, glad you have your car back on the road again. I installed an S13 Kaaz 2way on my ER34 and just drilled out the diff centre holes to accept the bigger bolts. I also transferred the ABS rings from the ER34 stubs to the S13 5-bolt stubs. Going to go Nismo at some point so this was good information. Need to check things carefully. Cheers.

Something doesn't add up here. My car is factory 1999 GTT A/T and it had the 13mm bolts. It had an VLSD. So this makes me think that if the Nismo P/N really matches and the unit was brand new unopened, that something went wrong somewhere down the line at Nismo (highly unlikely of course). I suppose it would make more sense the other way around: the car had 12mm bolts it and Nismo came with 13mm. About the flanges: I believe all Nismo LSDs come with the drive shaft ends/stub axles/flanges so unless they don't match the driveshaft bolt pattern (in ER34 this should be 5 in a star shape), there shouldn't be any problems with them. Note that you cannot use the original VLSD stubs with the Nismo, probably the splines don't match and one of them is too long anyway, so if your Nismo LSD didn't come with the stubs, then no wonder there's trouble.

I would like to add the ridiculous length of the oil feed, with a very rough 90­° machined/drilled bend in the block, right after the pickup trunk. I think I measured about 50-60cm of pipe and channel from the oil pan to the pump. Perhaps it is not a killer but it most likely will not help either. When rebuilding my 25, I did what I could to that corner and ported the oil pump too while I was at it.

Apart from cutting the struts towers open, what options does one have to address this? I don't see any signs of corrosion there yet and would rather not see it later either.

Anyone still in here, Tokyo area perhaps?

Okay ladies and gentleman. I chose to reply this thread as this is the one that mostly comes up in google when you try to search for the topic in question. I will mainly focus on the neutral sw in this case. Well, it also concerns the reverse SW. When I did the MT conversion, I had huge trouble but very little time to sort everything out electrically. As such, I focused mainly on the visible stuff that matters in terms of MOT/shaken, which was the reverse lights and speedo. Here is where my memory is slightly hazy, but I believe what is needed is +12V to the reverse signal wire that is - again I believe - red. The neutral sensor was left disconnected, but I have since learned its significance in many things, such as calibration of the TPS, Hicas etc. This drove me on a quest to get it working as intended. I found this thread a while ago but there were no answers so I just wired the switch to ground the appropriate pin (#39 if my memory serves) on the ECU directly, without utilizing the auto gearbox harness. However, during the past few days I opened the service manual and pulled out my multi meter and dug in to this while the car was on a lift and I had some time to spare and test things out. The way I thought about both the reverse and neutral SW was that they are switches that ground the necessary wires when the appropriate gear is selected and the switch activated. But this is not the case. Well to be precise, it actually is the case, if the car is MT from the factory, but if you have the AT meter cluster with the AT christmas tree (P R N D 1 2) between the RPM and speedo, then things are different. Somewhere, likely in the meter cluster itself there are relays that - when activated - handle the switching of reverse lights and the neutral switch. In the case of neutral switch, the relay grounds the appropriate pin and it is likely the same happens with the reverse lamps as well. But it all goes through the christmas tree in the dash. And that christmas tree needs +12v to function so, instead of grounding the wires in the auto box loom, you actually need to switch +12v to the wires. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/ In this topic E_Lu-SHuN writes: “The reverse switch consists of two brown wires(as seen in diagram) . One brown wire from the reverse switch joins together with the inhibitor(BLACK with Pink) and the power(GREY). The REVERSE wire (red wire from the auto plug) connects onto the remaining brown wire of the reverse switch. So for the reverse switch, one brown wire connects to the reverse signal(red wire) and the other brown wire joins with the inhibitor and power(3 joint wires). “ So what is happening here is that the inhibitor SW needs +12v, the reverse SW needs +12v and what is left out is that the same +12v is needed also for the neutral SW. The +12v is - apparently and in my best understanding and memory - provided with the GREY/RED wire. The RED is the reverse SW wire and the GREEN/WHITE wire is the neutral SW. For TL;DR: Split the GRAY with RED stripe wire (+12v) to three places: Directly to BLACK with PURPLE stripe (Inhibitor SW so the car actually starts) To Reverse SW and from that to RED wire in the AT loom. To Neutral SW and from that to GREEN with WHITE stripe wire in the AT loom This should end you up with all SWs working as intended and you should be able to observe this in the meter cluster (the R and N will light up in the christmas tree when reverse or neutral is selected). Note that especially the neutral SW itself tends to be broken and or connecting only intermittently and you would be better off replacing it with a new one (as was the case and additional headache in my case). No need to drain oil from the box to do this (so long as your car is the right way up). Apologies for the wall of text.

Good day, General mock build-up was done with GT-R manifolds and once that was done and concept was proven, I ordered some "stainless" china manifolds. As you guessed, the flanges needed some slight seeing-to in the form of angle grinder + test fit + weld. After the fabrication was done (including but not limited to correcting the warped flanges) I had them sand blasted inside and out and ceramic coated inside. Outside was coated with heat resistant spray paint, which lasted amazingly well. Oh, and I had to swap two of the studs to M8 size, as there was just no room to put an M10 nut in there. I believe the original GT-R manis also have one stud that is smaller or somehow handles the alignment of the mani to the head? In the final revision of my build I was running a pair of GT2860-7's (if my memory serves me), along with R34 outlets. Regrettably I sold the whole package as a bolt on kit a few years ago, before going the single Holset way.. The rear turbo used the stock oil return. For the front one, the NEO block had a similar 3/4 inch (again, if my memory serves) threaded hole that was used with a suitable hose barb. incoming oil was taken from the block stock location with a T-adapter and for the water lines OEM GT-R stuff was utilized with slight adjustment.

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll start a topic there!

Thank you for the warm welcome! I probably should've signed up much earlier, hehe. The GT-R twins were a great drunken idea that somehow slipped into production. The twin turbo pipe just looked so cute next to the NEO plastic cover (and was MOT friendly). Regrettably I don't have a better pic and that engine room is filthy.. But it did work surprisingly nicely! and I sort of miss having it. About 10 years ago I was sitting in a bar in Tokyo and talked with some Japanese dude who had shipped his motorcycle to Europe in the 90's and driven around there for a summer. I thought that idea would be hilarious to do in reverse, thus a seed of silliness was planted. But another reason was that I had just done a complete engine overhaul with forged parts and that costs a lot of money. Also the prices of ER34s in Japan are getting higher year by year. So in a twisted way it kind of made sense. ? @Steve85 The color is sort of dark blue, purplish, almost black. I wanted a white one but after years of looking at the car in this color, I think I will stick with it. Even when I eventually have to have it resprayed. So a couple more pics: 2012 Still with the stock body kit. Would have stuck with that, were it not that the passenger side skirt was missing.. ?‍♂️ Ahvenisto circuit 2013. Among friends at Botniaring Circuit 2016 Finnish highway 2016 September. Some autumn colors 2018. Didn't know this would be the last time I drove the car as automatic. Freshening up the insides a bit - 2017 Test fitting the turbo lines. Engine room pretty much as it is today. 2018 Going for a cruise to the other side of the planet April 2019. About 1 month prior to this the car was without a gearbox and engine, spread all over the garage. Not to mention what else was going on at the time. Memories are hazy. Japanese highway 2019 (under Tokyo Bay, going to Umihotaru PA) Some video too https://youtu.be/7sPZMemTlRs