Unzipped Composites

And aerospace alloy.

This. It is essentially one of those areas that 99% of tuners spend a second or two looking at before doing power runs. If the customer never complains about it, then why spend the time doing it. Of course, all bets are off if there is a mechanical issue causing the tune to be out. That shit is money.

Why would you need to externally display anything on the head unit when the dash can display anything and everything? I think the thing to remember with CAN dashes is you don't need to have eyes on every engine parameter. You can have a simple display showing the things you need to know, a la stock dash, and then utilize maths channels and warning functions to pop up messages when a change happens that you need to know about. Also, I'm quite sure the Motec display creator will allow you to have literally anything you can imagine. I helped set one of these C1212's up for a customer who wanted a naked cheerleader in the middle of the speedo and tacho, and her arms were the needles. So as revs and speed went up, her arms moved and she showed more... skin. It was a laugh for sure haha.

I feel like WMI development pretty much hit a wall as soon as E85 became an easily obtainable option. I was ready to invest in it back in the day, but since then it just doesn't feel like it's as good an option. If a company was looking at developing a 'proper' kit for RB's, is there even a market for it anymore to justify it?

Haha yes, that about sums up all my experiences of working on my car ? Just hours and hours of pain and misery with the end result of making precisely 0 progress ?

Clutch sounds normal, that's just how a grabby clutch feels. Give it some more revs and take your foot off a bit quicker, it wants to just grab and go, it doesn't want to have to slip at low rpm while you slowly ease off it. You'll get used to it and be able to drive it pretty normally - hill starts in front of the boys in blue may be a new phobia for you! Warm start issue sounds like your tuner needs to have a bit of a play with the post-start enrichment values, or potentially just adjust your IACV if you are still using it. While they have the car, just get them to put it up on the hoist and have a look for the oil leak. If it's there, they should be able to track it down and you can decide if it's worth sorting now or later. It doesn't sound like it's an urgent issue, and it's possible it wasn't from your car at all and the tuner just didn't notice another car drop it. But oil leaks are shit, at best they will make a big mess if left untreated, and at worst they are a fire hazard. Best to just have a look at it now while it's on your mind. Sounds like a fun car, enjoy it. Love those wheels

Yeh I know, I will only be running E85. Not sure why you would run anything else in a track car regardless of what CR you have. And with the number of flex setups getting around I just find it a bit odd that 10:1 isn't the norm these days even for street cars.

Thanks Pete. Really I'd be keen to go as high as 10.5:1, but I'm trying to reign it in a bit haha. 10.25:1 or 10:1 would be ideal. I'm a little bit surprised they aren't more of a stock item these days with the availability of E85, I would have thought everybody would be looking to bump their CR. I did actually email CP about it, but they haven't got back to me in the 3 weeks since. I do intend to run CP's, but that is sort of all I have been looking at. I wasn't sure if maybe someone else do some 10:1's that would be an easier option. But if they're a custom job then CP it is!

Definitely. I actually trust my subconscious mind more than my active mind. Often I fall into the trap of desperately trying to force a solution while I'm thinking about it, and this is when my conscious mind thinks of shit that genuinely makes me question if I might be on the spectrum. I've lost count the number of times I have completely stuffed something up because I made a stupid decision that I knew was stupid before I did it.

Hey guys, I apologise if this has been discussed before, I was sure it must have been but I just can't find anything recent and up to date in a search. I am currently building my RB25 Neo for use in a dedicated Time Attack car, and I want to bump the compression ratio up to at least 10:1. I'm sure this is fairly common practice these days, but I just can't find what pistons people are using to achieve it? Any 'off-the-shelf' forged piston I look at are quoted at most a 9:1. Now I know that relies on some assumed figures and may not work out that way, so is it the case that people are using these pistons and bumping the CR another way? Or using custom pistons? Or is everyone actually still building quite low CR engines? Of course my machinist is going to CC the head and can work out what we need to achieve 10:1, but I just wanted to find out if this is definitely going to be a custom piston job or what others are doing?

I like that first one. Issue with motivational quotes and speeches etc. is you very quickly condition yourself to them. I'll admit I got a little surge of enthusiasm for today reading that first quote, but the next time I hear it I won't get the same response. I know, because I've heard all the others before and I barely finished reading each of them before I got bored haha. Interesting topic Christian. Running my own business working for myself, I do struggle quite often with this. My biggest problem is that money is 0 motivation for me. It does not matter how much a job is paying me, if it isn't an interesting job then I will hate every second of it. It's a curse, because the jobs that I do find interesting are invariably the exceptionally challenging jobs that require loads of imagination and engineering which tend to take weeks if not months of work - which of course nobody wants to pay for, so I end up doing most of it for free just to satisfy my own desire to conquer a challenge haha. I agree with Duncan completely. I do an extreme amount of problem solving between the hours of 12am-6am, and I honestly come up with some of my best ideas in that time. In fact just on Friday, my day consisted of cutting a piece of wood to a specific shape and size and drilling a couple of holes in it, and from there I literally spent 6 hours staring at it. Just could not form the picture in my head of what needed to be done. Eventually gave up, called it a day, and went home. Some time during the night my brain found the image of what I needed to do, I came back in the morning and got it done in 2 hours. I think it just becomes a case of learning to walk away from something when it just isn't happening, and knowing that you may well be more productive because you did so.

Haha well to be fair, I'm not sure PRP were trying to market towards the 240kw SR's with those braces...

Those 'splash plates' will do nothing. Go check out the oil control thread in the forced induction section. Read from about page 45 onwards.

Interested to know what you make of the Attkd rotors. I was going to get the same for my car, but ended up cheaping out (which feels embarrassing given how cheap the Attkd rotors are ?)

I thought about getting some IR tyre temp sensors to help dial them in. Would probably help a bit, but then I'm also probably not a good enough driver to take full advantage - are the tyres cold because I don't have enough camber or because I'm terrified to throw it in harder to make use of that camber? Better to spend that money on some AD08's and give yourself more of a chance.

Stop messing about Benji, I want to see the photos of the Carillo rods and 11.5:1 JE Pistons with custom spec gudgeon pins you dropped off with the Emtron. Will give you one bonus post-Covid elbow-bump if there's any billet engine brace in sight.

Was not hugely impressed by the Nangkangs last time I was out. I feel they have a really narrow performance window and temperatures are critical, so if you don't have the pressure dialled in exactly right at each corner then it make a massive difference. Really effects your confidence in the tyre, because one lap they can feel like youre on ice skates and the next they feel great. Obviously that is kind of true of any tyre, but I found we actually went slower on brand new AR-1's compared to the 3 or 4 year old half worn AD08's that were on there. Ended up spending the whole day trying to get used to the tyre rather than improving any other part of the setup.

This is always worth a tenner

Sure, but that's what it costs if you just buy it all from Alpha Omega. They're trying to make money off it, which is cool because they are also offering you the convenience of getting all the right gear in one place - but you can find all those parts significantly cheaper if you look around. Just buy their adapter kit for $400, which isn't bad value. Then I picked up my calipers for $500, rebuilt them including new pistons for $170 (I mean if you need to pay someone to rebuild them then that's an extra cost, but it's just about the easiest thing you can do on a car, disassembly and reassembly took all of 25 minutes), powder coating locally shouldn't cost more than $200. Brake lines I got from Alpha for $145, but I got lazy - could have found cheaper if I'd been bothered to measure what was on there etc. Then the advantage of the Evo gear is that there are SO many options for them in terms of pads and rotors. So you can decide how much you want to pay and what you want to get. Infinite selection of pads, just take your pick. Rotors, you can get single piece DBA T3's for less than $500. Or if you want cheap 2-piece, then get Attkd 2-piece Evo X rotors for $550. Plus it is all OEM quality - there's very little to go wrong with OEM second hand calipers, especially if you rebuild them. I'll admit, the Attkd kit appealed to me for a long time. But in the end I liked the flexibility of the Evo gear. And I just bought the whole kit over a period of several months from various places, and didn't have to drop the lump sum of cash on a complete kit.

Hahaha I love that you can leave this forum for 8 years, and come back to find nothing has changed. GTSBoy is still the crankiest Guru in the RB world, nobody searches before posting, and Benji is still talking shit like no one else can ?

I really feel the Evo 6/7/8/9 calipers + Evo X 350mm rotor upgrade is the best bang for buck upgrade you can do without going to a big brake kit like the D2/K-Sport/Attkd kits. Only costs about AU$1500 (obviously not including pads and fluid) to do the fronts depending on what rotors you decide to buy and how cheap you can find second hand calipers; but nets you a decent upgrade on the calipers and a huge upgrade on the rotors. If you can spend a bit more, get a BM57 master cylinder and perhaps do the rears as well, but none of that HAS to happen all at once either.

Don't trust tow truck drivers to look after your expensive intercoolers either. Had a customers car get picked up from our workshop, towie winched off the crossmember rather than the tow strap hanging out the front, caved the bottom of the Plazmaman intercooler in. Took out the brand new custom piping as well, and because it was using Plazmaclamps it was a total disaster. The Pro Series coolers are strong pieces of gear though, definitely proper. Still worked no problem with the dent at 800hp.

Ahhh gotchya, sounds like Sparesbox is one to avoid haha. Actually a very similar setup to mine, bar the turbo. I've currently still just got the old gen (like 10 years old now, jesus) Hypergear G3, which is going to hold me back. Same cams, same wastegate, same springs and retainers, etc. What injectors and fuel pump/s do you have?

Had a quick read back through the thread but got bombarded with coffee posts; what turbo and wastegate are you using again? *EDIT* Found turbo, GTX3582, that still correct? What gate?

Didn't think I'd missed that little detail with your car, but I'm also still trying to figure out how you're cheating in your 59 second 'street car' ? Thanks fatz, but I think I'll half-ass it and then come whinge about it on here if I have oil control problems; I've missed this forum for that.