Unzipped Composites

If you REALLY want the ultimate solution of OEM looking with top quality hardware, save your pennies for a Motec C1212 with Display Creator. Pinnacle of performance. Program it to look exactly like the OEM gauge cluster. Only going to set you back ~$8000 + mounting/wiring/programming. But baller is baller!

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I think they are just like that to deal with sometimes, probably a symptom of being far busier than they are equipped to handle. Ive spoken several times to Herman about developing a product with them and everytime I speak to him he is very interested and keen, but then in between it is very difficult to get a reply and I can go months without hearing anything back from inquiries. No stress for me as I'm not in a rush to develop, but as a customer it sucks. Have been in that position as a business myself though, where you're really just too busy to take on a job but you are still interested so you don't want to say no so you don't reply while you try to think of a solution, then before you know it you've forgotten and its been 2 months since they contacted you.

Can confirm on the 350Z pedal. It's super easy though, just throw it in the vice and bend it a little bit. Its a steel arm, so not going to break and you can manipulate it around to your liking. It only needs to move like an inch to the right, and fitment otherwise is perfect.

Came here for Samsonas pics. Was disappoint. Will come back later.

90's ABS systems are extremely over-rated. They are more-or-less an elaborate system of wheels and pulleys, clunking their way to a kind-of-but-not-really effective result. I wouldn't worry about losing it. To answer your question though, my ABS worked just fine with my Link Thunder. I just ended up deleting it because it made removing my engine harness THAT much easier. And also, see above.

I actually don't feel the police here are too harsh. Before I got pulled over and defected, I hadn't been pulled over once in 12 years of daily driving my 34. And while the things I was actually defected for were crap; clear front indicators lenses despite amber bulbs, and too LARGE an exhaust (not too loud, it wasn't, specifically too large)... to be fair, my car was perfectly defectable. It was still registered as an NA, so the 500hp turbo hanging off the side and external gate venting atmo weren't the most legal things. Race seats, etc. Plenty to sticker me for if they had known what to look for. I also gave them a reason to pull me over. Made a mistake and pulled out in front of a guy on a scooter. I saw him last minute and stopped, he saw me early and stopped, so it was all good. But cops were there and saw it and pulled me over and from there I was in trouble. For the most part though, in my experience if you dont give them a reason to pull you over and defect you then they probably won't.

Man, I feel like every second post I make in here is explaining that my previous post was good natured, so perhaps my brand of online commentary isn't all that welcome. No problem. I'm just a guy on the internet man, don't need to defend yourself to me. As I said before, you do you.

I have a raped one you can have. 2000 of your finest Covid dollars please. Seriously though. Been looking for one for the last 6 months. Nobody is selling because they need their 8 spares. Have lost so much hope that a small part of me is whispering sweet nothings about selling the whole project. Shit times.

Jesus dude, please don't run that mesh thing off the turbo. Have mercy, please.

Yeh, here they want you to get approval before you start modifying. It isnt illegal to upgrade your turbo or ecu or anything like that, but you are supposed to fill out a form with a list of your intended modifications to apply for 'pre-approval' which is basically a letter from the head of the Department of Transport that says yes you can do these modifications, provided you meet such and such conditions. That letter then enables you to engage a mechanical engineer, without that letter you aren't allowed to get engineering approval on any modifications. Then the engineers job is to make sure you comply the conditions listed on the pre-approval letter, which will always include the maximum 180hp/tonne rule, and emissions testing, etc. And can also include other things that the Dept. Of Transport just throw in, like swept volume tests etc. Easy and straightforward if done the way they want you to do it. Hard, frustrating and expensive if you've already done the modifications.

It doesn't really. I got stickered for clear front indicators. That's all they put on the sticker. Pits wanted engineer certs for every mod, which is just what they do now because they were getting in so much trouble for turning a blind eye. So these days a yellow sticker is virtually guaranteed to require engaging an engineer. You can't engage an engineer without pre-approval to modify. The guys that write that pre-approval letter can ask for anything they like. All my modifications were done 'by the book', they met all the requirements for getting ticked off straight away. But it still was going to take months of having the car off the road. You still have to pay for the tests to be done. It is simple and straightforward, but it isn't pain free or cheap. Its a slow process. Too slow if its your only daily driver. If you have another car then it really isn't that big a deal.

It really depends on what they ask you for. They asked me for a swept volume test, and brake and swerve testing. Just those two things, plus the engineers report, would have brought me up to about 3k. Then you gotta factor in dyno time, emissions tests, the price of actually fixing/replacing things. Its an easy 5k for most cars. I would probably budget 10k and just be happy if you come away with change.

No no, I wasn't being sarcastic man! I actually like it, I'm not sure why... im possibly getting old. And have read too many build threads with picture after picture of GTR + billet + Precision. Like being stuck on someone's Insta feed. You do you man!

Why would you be doing this? Use the handbrake man.

No its certainly possible. They have just cracked down on people doing it 'the wrong way'. Ie, modifying first and getting approval later. It makes it harder. But mainly because a lot of people, like myself, use their car as their daily and don't have another car. Then when you get stickered and the process of getting it all engineered takes months and months, it just makes life really hard. If you get approval before you modify your car, or your car isn't your daily and it doesn't matter how long it is deregistered, then its quite easy. Just a little bit expensive. And a bit restrictive, they might not let you do the mods you want to do. But they're pretty good for the most part, they wouldn't care at all about the single turbo conversion. Just have to comply with emissions and the 180hp/tonne thing, which is... navigable 👀 some things are impossible, race seats etc. I'm also not sure how the car being registered in another state prior would affect things. I feel it would be treated like a deregistered car and you would have to go through the process, but perhaps it is slightly easier I dont know.

One of the most immersive builds on SAU, its like reality TV but without the super annoying American's. Lucky you guys are Canadian! 😆

Regardless of what was on the sticker, they will send you for engineering certs on all the mods. The pits here have really cracked down on modified cars, they get in a lot of trouble if they get caught not pulling you up on things they are supposed to so 99% of the time they will. To be honest, most of them will see a pod filter and just send you to an engineer for certs on all mods. Engineer will send you for emissions test (should be an easy pass as long as you have a decent cat). They will also want a dyno print out showing that you meet the 180hp/tonne rule, so will send you for a dyno run - engineer needs to be present when this is performed. Unlikely to get the suspension arms past the engineer, so I would swap those back. HICAS likely won't be an issue. Will need to pass an exhaust volume test. Intercooler needs to have mesh in front of it. Otherwise all your standard things, no oil leaks (and clean any residue well if there has been one, don't want to fail because it looks like you have one when you dont), all lights work and correct colours etc. The really painful bit is, you need to apply to get your pre-approval for modification before you can engage an engineer. This can take months. Mine took 8 weeks from the day of application. Then they can request anything they like from the engineer - my pre-approval letter requested a swept volume test (on a stock engine) and brake and swerve testing (this means hiring Barbagallo so your engineer can take your car for some hot laps). If you still have all your stock gear, it will be much quicker and easier to swap it all back to stock - with the caveat that you could get stickered again the next day and have to do it all over again. Engineering is nice, but it is expensive and is a fkn slow process. If your car isn't TOO heavily modified, it may not be too bad. But all depends what they ask for on that pre-approval.

All the same spec

Ceramic coat > heat wrap. Still feel like this is more of a tuning issue though. Plenty of 6Boost manifolds being kept cozy at high power without those signs of massive heat issues.

Yeh, no. Expect it to break something. It's a question of when not if.

This is exactly why they make the crank trigger wheel as a simple 12 tooth wheel and just give you the option of removing a tooth yourself, because it gives you flexibility. Not every ECU supports every style of trigger wheel (and there are dozens of styles, it can get really pretty confusing). It isn't hard to remove a tooth, so it's better to provide it with all 12 teeth and let the end user decide what they want to run. And yes, it is obviously more complex than my short post could sum up. Realistically you've got 3 ways of using a crank trigger wheel; multi-tooth missing is the simplest because it tells your ECU how fast the engine is spinning, but it can't support sequential ignition because it doesn't know if the engine is on it's compression stroke or it's exhaust stroke. Which is why using the camshaft is easier, because it only has one rotation per engine cycle, so the ECU knows which stroke it is on. But because you have the issues with belt slap and the associated inaccuracies which is why we are all here in the first place, the cam is also a bit unreliable. So then you have your multitooth wheel plus sync input from the camshaft, so now your ECU knows how fast your engine is spinning AND where it is in the cycle. But now your whole ignition system is completely dependent on that sync signal from the camshaft, and it becomes critical that your sync signal is exactly half way between your two crank speed signals. Which is easy to setup at idle and low rpm, that's fine. But at high RPM, you go back to having the inaccuracies from the cam signal because of belt slap and the harmonics of the valve train, and you need to watch that those signals don't cross over teeth and the engine loses it's position. And that's where the multi-tooth missing plus sync input improves reliability, because as long as your sync signal doesn't occur where crank wheel is missing a tooth then the ECU is always going to be able to know where everything is. Obviously at the end of the day, it is all a trade off and there is no 'correct' answer. The more teeth you have, the smaller the gaps are between the teeth and the more information the ECU has about the engine position and the more accurate your timing can be - BUT, it is also harder and less reliable to get the sync right. A 12 tooth wheel is more forgiving with the sync signal, because the gaps between the teeth are larger and you have a larger window for the belt slap to play out and the sync signal to move around without crossing over teeth and losing position. But it is also less accurate because of those bigger gaps between the teeth which is essentially dead time where the ECU doesn't really know what is going on. Which is why a 36-2 trigger wheel is so commonly used in high end setups, because it has more teeth and allows a much finer resolution with timing, and still has the 2 missing teeth to make it a bit easier and safer with regards to the sync timing. Realistically, you're moving from an optical cam-only based sensor which is really inaccurate at high RPM, to a crank speed plus sync sensor - you're already going to be SO much more reliable than the OEM system was. So is removing a tooth going to make your engine run any better or safer? Probably not. But on the other hand, you're moving to this style of ignition input because you wanted a more reliable system, so why not remove a tooth and give yourself that little bit of wiggle room? Obviously the decision is taken out of your hands if your ECU doesn't support it. But otherwise, if your ECU supports a multi-tooth missing configuration, I don't know why you wouldn't do it. Timing accuracy is really the only argument for it, but honestly if you need your timing to be more accurate than a 12-1 can provide then why are you not using a 36-2?

You dont HAVE to remove a tooth, but a missing tooth is better. It gives the ECU a reference point, which makes the location of the cam trigger less critical. If you dont remove a tooth, your ECU can count the teeth fine but it doesn't have a reference point to know where home is and it can lose track of exactly where the crank is.

Horses for courses. For endurance racing, ducting is a good idea. For time attack, you dont want the extra drag and loss of front downforce that those ducts would come with. You also don't want extra weight from brakes that are unnecessarily large, but most people go with a brute force approach same as having way more power than they can actually drive.

Can also do marbled carbon. Both styles are made with F1-spec pre-preg. Tested to 150° C and 150psi. /salesspeal