Unzipped Composites

Will just leave these here... 👀

Yeh generally its much faster and easier to take the engine out. Ive seen it done with the engine in by unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the engine enough to get enough room in, but its bush mechanics 101 and not something a professional mechanic should be putting his limbs at risk with. Shouldn't be that bad though, engine out is a 2 hour job, 3 hours max.

It's super easy, just cut the dash. Go slowly and keep trial fitting, don't take heaps out in one go. But it's quite obvious once you start cutting where you need to end up.

I mean I'm sure it is technically legal, I'm sure they've found a loophole that allows them to do it. As you say, very public and quite well known. But still, the rules are if it: 1. Has an element of chance (its a random draw, so tick). 2. Has a prize (obviously tick) 3. Has a 'consideration', of ANY form. It HAS to be completely free to enter to be considered a legal sweepstakes, and it has to be easy to get the free entry. If it requires a substantial effort to enter for free (ie, a membership) or requires a fee, then it is a lottery. So for me, tick. I looked long and hard into how to do something like this to promote my business, and in the end decided it just wasn't worth doing because it is quite difficult to set something up that isn't classed as an illegal lottery.

I'm still amazed/highly sceptical that it is legal in any way. It is a lottery, and it's not state run = illegal. If they weren't charging for tickets then sweet, but then they obviously wouldn't be doing it. So I just can't see how it is legal.

It's really taken me years of research to get the knowledge I do have, which realistically is still pretty limited. I'm certainly not knowledgeable enough in aerodynamics to be running courses! I have run composites courses though haha. I would highly recommend the book 'Competition Car Aerodynamics' by Simon McBeath. Very good intro to aero, presented from the perspective of a hobby race car driver. Honestly I still refer to this book every now and then, its something of a bible for me haha.

This is very bad for drag and lift. You want to be reducing the frontal opening of the car so they are only just big enough to cool the engine properly. For endurance cars, brake ducting is important enough to incorporate there too. Any additional intakes hurt performance.

See above comments.

Interesting you say that, did you run with just the fronts at any point? Ive been a bit concerned about the way it will affect the bias. Wanted to wait and see before committing to the rears or an external bias controller, but its interesting you dont feel the rears are worth it.

Alpha Omega supply Evo Brembos for $880, which is expensive. Youre really paying for the convenience of not having to look for them. But if you look, you'll find them much cheaper. I paid $500 for mine. Rebuilt them for $80. $200 might be each rotor. Cheapest I found for a pair was Bremaxx for $329. Full China, obviously. I bought some just to tide me over, but am nervous about running them on the track. Will likely get some Attkd 2-piece rotors when I eventually get the car together.

Yeh just keep an eye on your boost levels, both mods have the potential to change how much boost and when it comes on, which can mean you run lean in certain areas of the map. Intercooler doesn't necessarily have to change your IAT, a return flow is always going to be a fairly large restriction to flow. If you then change that and make it flow a lot better, you lower the potential for boost drop, and more importantly you allow the boost to come on earlier. Depending on how your car was tuned, that could be an issue if you have moved the boost graph to the left. If you have a good boost controller you should still have the peak boost level under control, but where it occurs on the map is potentially different. Couple that with the effects of changing to a EWG as well, which Kinkstaah nailed, and you have potentially given yourself quite a bit of extra range in the map where you are at peak boost. So just be aware. It's definitely one where you want to get your tune checked, because who wants to lunch a motor (especially in this day and age!) because their mods worked. I wouldn't be too scared to take it for a test drive and at least get it ramping up to full boost in 2nd gear, but I wouldn't be holding it on peak boost just for the sake of seeing if your couplers are holding.

I feel like you took my post as a bit of a critisicm - I didn't mean it like that, I understand you haven't got access to a dozen different machinists and builders with extensive RB knowledge. I was replying to your comment about not letting your mates use your torque plate and it becoming a giant paperweight because you felt it wasn't right to PRP... Realistically, PRP are very likely targeting engine builders and machinists with those plates, rather than the individual end users. Or atleast they should be, because not every end user needs to own a torque plate. And if that's the case, then PRP would be well aware that those torque plates are going to be hired out and used many times. I dont feel they would have an issue with that, its what torque plates are for. But given your replies after that about your plans for letting your mates use it, perhaps I misunderstood what you meant too. So I'll just resume following along quietly!

I dont feel like PRP need to be selling torque plates to everyone building an RB though, really the only people that need an RB torque plate are the machinists that might be doing more than one engine/people who understand that building a 1000+hp RB means committing to building engines frequently. Considering machinists should be able to make their own torque plate, Ive always felt like it is a bit of an odd thing to be retailing.

Well, I had Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my gearbox for around 30,000km. When I dumped it, it was a brownish green sort of colour, quite sludgy, and it stank. I certainly wouldn't try running it for 400,000km 🙄

So much this. So much this. I paid $4000 for the donor car I used, including importing it from Japan. That included everything, engine, gearbox, driveshaft, diff, brakes, some of the interior including matching dash cluster with the correct*** kms, etc. In the end it was a very simple job just to swap everything over out of the one car and into the other. All I needed was a radiator and a front mount due to the front impact on the donor car. I sold my DE Neo engine for 250 bucks, and the DE gearbox including clutch for $200. The rest went in the bin. Try and get that value out of any donor car these days, you'd likely pay atleast 10k for it. Collect the parts individually and it will probably take you 2 years and still cost 10k. Jesus Christ, these days people are paying $1500 just for a DE Neo motor, and the same again for a DE gearbox. Crazy sauce. These cars just aren't good value anymore, they are expensive to own and modify now for sure. If you're going to do it, it shouldn't be because of prices.

Also - what fuel resistant epoxy are you using? Epoxies are generally not fuel resistant long term, you need a specialist epoxy like a phenol novolac for that. They also don't bond well to that sort of plastic, so you're going to have it shrink and pull away from the plastic fuel lid.

5k doesn't necessarily go far when it comes to making a custom loom. The materials for my loom cost around 4k. If you're using Tefzel, DR-25 and autosport connectors, you will easily get over 5k very very quickly. I'm doing mine myself so there's no labour cost, but if you're paying for labour then 5k doesn't get you a whole lot. It's an extremely time consuming job. I think you need to ask what you are actually getting for that money. Wiring can cost you anywhere from $1000-$20,000 and over.

This really doesn't make much sense, unless your copper plugs were old and fouled and the problem was fixed with new plugs. Iridiums dont give you a better spark than coppers, they are just supposed to last longer. But on a modified high performance engine you dont tend to get that longevity out of them and need to replace them more often anyway. The price difference between coppers and iridiums is why most people on here will be running coppers. But yeh, I agree with GTSBoy here, gapping plugs is SO 2010. Nowadays R35 and Audi R8 conversion kits are a dime a dozen, I'm amazed 'Splitfire' and 'feeler gauges' are still words that people know.

Wait, whos build thread is this? 😂

Ask PRP, they will be able to run you through it. Best to ask them direct, they revise their gear so often there's a good chance those on here that have been through it are already out of date haha. P.S. not convinced you can tell the difference between -5 and -15 just walking outside. The cars and shit not working is another matter! 😆

Haha I'm sure he will ask how we function at all when we get over 40° here, you just do. I function better in the cold though, I'd much rather -40 than +40! Atleast with -40 you can just put on more clothes, with +40 you just suffer through it. To be fair though, once you go below -5°, cold is cold, you dont really notice the difference. I was in Greenland last year for 11 days, 8 of which were below -30. But you dress the same for it, you're still wearing all your gear so its not super noticeable. Your face gets pretty cold pretty quick though!

Yeh I dunno... I drove my mates GTR with a 6466 making 507kw - it's too much. It's dumb haha. The tunnel vision you get as it goes past 180km/h in the blink of an eye is just insane. I was genuinely terrified 😅

Depends if you get the integrated main caps or not. If its just the brace, then nah not a great deal of machining. If you get the integrated main caps then you need to get that line bored with the block. Easy in theory, but a really really hard job to do properly.

Yeh for me grout filling is a drag racing thing, I wouldn't do it on anything that needs a cooling system. Obviously there are those on here that would disagree with me, and thats cool - but for me, no. A block brace could be a useful investment, but again - plenty have gone 500kw+ without one.

Yeh, in fact it almost makes it MORE likely to be that.