Unzipped Composites

Are you still using the factory hard lines from the fuel tank? If so, these will be a restriction at that power level and you'll want to change them. I also don't like the idea of running these Hellcats in the same way as a smaller pump with a conventional relay, they draw a massive amount of current. You really want to use a solid state relay and be controlling it through the ECU via PWM so that you aren't running the pump flat out at idle. Minimum 10g wiring on the high side as well.

Jesus. From someone who has just suffered through the removal of all the sound deadening from their car - this hurts me. If you ever sell this car, someone is going to turn it into a full-time race car and hate you immensely 🤣 Glad it somewhat achieved what you wanted though. I'll never admit it verbally, but there were times I wished my car wasn't 'F1 car leaving the pits' loud. Lucky I never succumbed to this though, cos I'd have absolutely hated removing it all again!

Eh, personally I think it's 6 of one, half a dozen of the other. I 'converted' my GT to GTT years ago (years before this thread was even started, I can feel the weight of my own swag) and wouldn't say I ever really regretted it. Would I do it again now? Probably not. There were headaches along the way that were 100% a result of the car being a GT. Realistically if it had been a GTT from factory, it probably wouldn't have been such a big deal when it got stickered and it would still be on the street. There are probably loads more headaches to come now that it is a full time track car. But then again, maybe I would. Sentimental attachment plays a big role. As does knowing my car like the back of my hand. Where the rust is, where the dents in the chassis rails are, where the paint has a bug in it from when I resprayed it in my garage. I think once you've owned a car for a length of time and you have genuine attachment to it other than finding the cheapest car you can and making it faster, then it takes a strong stomach to sell it for the sake of getting a turbo model. All the logic and reasonable thinking regarding investment etc doesn't change that. So end of the day - who cares right? Modifying cars is not an investment game, so just do what you like.

And I presume you have no affiliation with aforementioned website? 🤔

That shit takes time dude. Nitto worked on their 'sine drive' oil pump gear design for like 8 or 9 years before they released it, but they got there eventually.

I think people just use whatever they learned first, its like a language. I'm getting better at thinking in kw, but I generally still have to convert it to horsepower in my head unless its a super common number - ie I know 300kw well. Tell me an engine makes 761kw though and I'll do the sums before pulling my dick out. Similar to engine builders and machinist doing everything imperial, I can't think in thou or fractions. Got no idea what 5/8 is etc. But every machinist I know always talks imperial, I gotta convert all of that shit to metric before I can participate in that conversation and then they convert my metric lingo back to imperial haha. Kind of makes sense though because its much quicker to say 1 thou than to say 0.0254mm.

Pack my box with five dozen liquor jugs.

Your ability to pick up on the positive points in your life in amongst all the soul-destroying shit going on as well is massive, so props to you sir. My wife was an oncology nurse for 9 years. Lots of people would ask her how she could work in oncology and not crumble into complete depression, and I was always extremely proud of her response to that question - not only did she get to be a part of an experience in peoples lives that most don't ever have, but she got to make it better. And she would always say that yes, cancer is a shit time and it's a bitch and nobody should ever have to go through that, but not every moment of it is bad. There are some good times in there too; making friends with the hospital staff, connecting to your loved ones in a way that people who don't have cancer never will, etc. And she loved being one of those bright spots on a very dark journey for people. It all finally got a bit much for her last year and she switched to ED, but she talks quite often of going back one day. I guess my point here is that I genuinely hope the best for you and your wife, I hope that she recovers and you are able to pick up on some of those plans you had in 2016. But in the meantime, keep picking up on the positive experiences you have along the way, and let them lift you, don't let yourself reject the positive feelings because of the weight of the situation. Oncology staff are some of the most amazing people on this planet and your wife is going to receive a lot of love and support from extremely capable people. On a more jovial, unrelated note - almost exactly 8 years on, and Tom Hardy is still a majestic man beast that makes me moist.

Yeh the smaller your splitter is, the more important the diffusers are. Definitely a good idea to put some in!

Depends what you are referring to, the wing as a whole or just the diffusers on the bottom? The diffusers alone are an 8% increase in total downforce compared to not having them in there and just having the flat undertray. So not massive numbers, but every bit counts. The wing as a whole is night and day, it's about the same difference as having a rear wing compared to not having one. Ideally you would couple this front wing with a flat bottom floor and a rear diffuser, and that would be substantially better again. The regulations in Laine's class of Time Attack prevent a full flat floor though, which then also makes a rear diffuser pointless.

I'm yet to find any that actually give you much negative adjustment. All the ones I've seen are really designed to dial positive camber back in so that you can run with your chassis rails on the ground. OP, most of the 'proper' track Skylines I've worked on have modified LCA's, or just don't run as much negative camber as would be ideal.

Move it back in relation to the main element, which in your case is the splitter. The function of that second element should be to create a diverging path for the air to flow through between the main element and the second element, which re-energises the airflow coming from the bottom of the main element and creates a much more aggressive angle of attack. To create that diverging path, you probably want a gap between the splitter and the second element of 2-3% of the total chord, and an overlap of about 4-5% of the total chord. So say your splitter had a chord length (straight line between leading edge and trailing edge) of 300mm and your wing flap had a chord length of 120mm, for a total chord of 420mm, then your gap between the splitter and the wing flap should be ~8mm-12mm, and your overlap should be in the region of ~18-21mm. What is happening currently is you have a high pressure zone of air on top of the splitter, and a low pressure zone of air under the wing flap, and those two cancel each other out. Not quite 100%, only about 80% - but what that means is you get a lot of drag for the downforce. If you move those elements in relation to each other, the high pressure air on top of the splitter can be used to re-energise the low pressure air on the bottom of the wing and delay separation, making a lot more downforce and a little bit less or the same amount of drag.

Partial to docking myself. Beats an elbow bump, that shit is gay.

From my experience here in WA (possibly completely different to the Eastern States) - it is virtually completely impossible to get an aftermarket seat engineered, they just will not sign off on it. You can have the best quality seat with the best quality rails/mounts, it doesn't matter. Aftermarket seat is not going to get approved. On top of that, any seat that COULD be engineered (so meets the requirements of being able to slide forwards and pivot forwards) is not ideal for track work. For track work you ideally want a fixed back seat, and you need to make sure that it does not interfere with the operation of your seat-belt/harness at all. You shouldn't use a fixed back with a regular seat-belt because the sides of the seat interfere with the way the belt secures across your lap. If you are using a harness, you need to make sure that your shoulders are in-line with about the half-way point of the openings in the seat. If the openings are too low or too high, then it again interferes with the way the harness works and can either put the crash load on your spine or can spread the harness in a crash and make it possible for you to fly out. Seats are not really something I would cheap out on, they are absolutely critical in a crash. While obviously the idea is not to crash - imagine giving yourself permanent spinal chord damage because you compromised on the seat. Obviously this gets hard for daily drivers with track duties, because you have different considerations for each application. You end up compromising for both situations and making both less safe. If I were to do it, I would have a dedicated race seat with dedicated race mounts that I swap in when I'm doing a track day, and keep the OEM seats for the street. 4-point harness with rear harness mounts on the floor and you can pull this out for daily duties and switch back to the seat-belt. Whole lot more effort, no where near as efficient as just having the one setup - but much safer in my opinion.

I hope you take this as friendly advice rather than critisicm, but - move that second element backwards man, I really don't understand this wings-on-wings business that seems to be popping up all over the place. We stopped making bi-planes in the 1930's for good reason haha. Love what I'm seeing everywhere else though! That front bumper is what you need Laine, eh, eh 😉😉🙊😇😇❤ Also because I'm just as proud of the bottom side of that wing as the top:

Does it need new paint, the paint looks ok in the pictures? I'd always prefer OEM paint over a closed door respray, so unless you're stripping out the interior and giving that a lick as well then I would leave it. Too many Skylines with too many coats of paint on them. Obviously if the paint is rougher than the pictures show then that's different. Agree with new wheels. Engine covers need some love for sure. Otherwise looks like a great find, especially in the current GTR climate!

It also needs to make financial sense for them to stand by it, it's a low turnover product with an expiration. If I was buying a product in bulk that was going to sit there and go off while very few people buy it, then I would be covering that risk by charging a premium for it. I just feel there isn't much reason for anybody to complain about it, flex fuel is so easily achievable that if you're running a high performance street car on dedicated E85 then that's really nobodys problem but your own. And if you only use it for the track, then it isn't that expensive that it makes a big difference compared to tyres and track hire. Personally I'm happy to pay the going rate for it if the alternative is that it's taken off the pump and we have to go back to ordering in 200l drums from Sucrogen.

Works now. Thanks Prank

Looks like it started last Wednesday, it doesn't show any new posts since then. Here I was thinking it had just gone extremely quiet here all of a sudden!

This is not a fun time 😔 feel for ya mate, but you said it yourself a few pages back - its all just metal and you can't take it to the grave! My 2c on the fender repair - body filler will look terrible over time. If it doesn't crack, it will definitely at least shrink and cause distortions in the surface. The only way to fix that panel and have it last is to replace it.

Well one would assume that they probably haven't modified the baffle positions to suit the new breather locations though, so they may effectively have half the baffles. On a 25 the baffles are still positioned accordingly. Whether that actually makes much difference or not on a track car with inherent oil control problems? Probably not so much.

Not sure if Laine would agree here... Feels quick in a nice succinct post though! 😅

Going from a street tyre, the AR1's are going to feel pretty good anyway. So if you're concerned about money, AR1's are ok. Personally I agree with Dose - they seem to have a really tight performance window, where to get the best times out of them you really need to dial the pressures in for each corner (of the car). And then when they are gone, they are gone. Which makes it really hard to have confidence in them, because you'll go out for a couple of laps, get some heat into them, love the grip, and then go into the next corner like you're on ice. All well and good if you aren't actually trying to dive later and later into each corner and really trying to find those tenths, so they aren't a terrible option if you're really just wanting a bit of fun while going faster than you would on street tyres. If you genuinely want to drive on the limit of what your car can do - the AR1's wouldn't be my choice. To put that in perspective, I would probably be happy to run AR1's for testing/tuning purposes where seat time is really the ultimate goal. If I was entering a competition, I would stay well away, and go a proper tyre like A050/Z221/AD08 pending regulations.

Go custom, off-the-shelf kits are so 2005. Seriously though, custom exhausts are significantly better for ground clearance, and they can be tailored to the sound you want. And if youre looking at the good Japanese brands, you'll likely come in pretty close to the same price anyway. Cheaper if you find the right fabricator. Why anybody still uses off-the-shelf exhausts is a mystery to me.

Testing my memory and my maths skills at 4am; but I believe you would need to remove ~6.5 thou to drop the volume of the combustion chamber by 1cc. That won't be exactly correct, but quite close. So if you measured your head volume at 60cc, for example, you could work out that the head has been decked by roughly 25 thou. Which is quite a bit, and unlikely, but you just don't know. That said, it is sort of more important to CC the head for the sake of correctly calculating your compression ratio. In order to work out your piston to valve clearances, you would be better served by doing a dummy assembly using your old gear (you only need to assemble 1 cylinder) and use that to measure your clearances as they were. Then with that knowledge, plus knowing the volume of your head, you can work out a good CR, what thickness headgasket you can use to achieve it, and what pistons you should be getting.