Unzipped Composites

Depends what fuel you have access to and are planning to run.

This is what I'm saying - you don't want unknowns. You need to measure everything. Get the head CC'd to find out how much volume you have so you can work things out properly. End of the day, there's a decent chance you can guess the headgasket thickness and it will be ok. There's a bit of a chance you guess wrong and it doesn't end well. But you have an opportunity to build the thing properly and nicely, so starting off guessing things isn't just a shame, it's a risk.

Better start measuring things then! Measuring the old headgasket and going 4 thou thicker isn't really the best way to go about things. What was the compression ratio with the old headgasket, was it any good? Or did the previous builder just pick a 1.3mm headgasket out of a box and didnt calculate the static compression ratio? How much has been decked off the head and block; 10 thou, 20 thou, 30 thou? Is picking a 1.4mm headgasket going to result in a really sluggish CR, or worse, is it going to result in not enough deck height and you'll be tapping pistons? To do it properly, you really need to look at the engine as a whole package, measure everything, and work out what your clearances are and what compression ratio you're going to achieve. Forget about the old builds and what they used in that, you want to start working out what parts you are going to use in order to build the thing well.

Speak to Dose ?

Andy at Maddog Customs would be my recommendation.

King or ACL for the bearings. Can't help with the axle, I'm sure someone else will have some tips!

Yeh, and apologies for my part in it Oktaytrz, I'll leave it alone and let you get back to the build!

I mean ??? More comments like yours? You mean of how you have no first hand experience with the parts you're slagging off, but you once saw someone else have an issue but you're not really sure what it was because it wasn't you? So in an attempt to cover your ignorance, you use vague qualifiers like "let's just say"; that sort of comment? I'd say the internet is pretty chocked full of comments like that man. Honestly, I'm not saying don't have opinions, you're welcome to your opinion. But before you say stuff like that, just have a think about what you are actually saying, and whether you actually have the knowledge of what happened to say it. First of all, have a bit of perspective: the issues that I had seen on a single PRP block brace/girdle - and based on your vague description of the issues, I am virtually certain that if it wasn't even the exact same build that you are referring to then it was at least just the same issues on the same part prior to the revisions being made - these were FAR from catastrophic errors waiting to happen. You're not talking inferior materials or weak design. You're talking minor issues that caused a bit of annoyance and extra machine work in order to fit the brace. The types of mistakes that you let the manufacturer know about so they can make some adjustments and things can go smoother for future users. And secondly, if you want to offer advice and help others with their builds - talk about what you do know, and products that you have used/had good experienced with. All of this talking shit about a product you haven't used personally, and we still haven't heard a single word about what makes Kulig so good. Or why Ross would be your second choice. You're talking about PRP and throwing them in the same bracket as Gktech (who I don't have a problem with, but they are more entry level gear and budget alternatives - with that comes sacrifices in quality). And then attempting to justify it by doing the same thing with a company like AP Racing for f**k sake - thats a 100 year old company who's products are used in OEM and in F1. If you think Japanese aftermarket manufacturers like HKS and Jun are 'big hitters', but AP Racing are not - then let's just leave it there.

Oooo, valuable information, I wish I knew who you were referring to so I could have a conversation. Sounds like he should be in the low 57's really ?? If you'd opened with the "buy my 3582 gen II" bit, you wouldve had me, but you talked yourself out of a sale first! ? seriously though, have actually wanted to talk to you about a few things on your car that I haven't been involved with, so remind me to do that when you're visiting. When is that happening again? ??

I'm sort of committed to single scroll now. I thought long and hard about twin scroll, but decided against it in the end when I bought the manifold. If I was going to do twin scroll, I wanted twin gates rather than the divided plumbing from the manifold, but decided the extra heat, packaging and point of failure were issues for me. You make a good point with the diff ratio though. At the moment the diff is stock, and I know it's going to be wayyy too short for the power I'm aiming for around Barbagallo, I'll be on limiter in 4th or having to go to 5th for half of the straights, which is where you lose seconds. So I know I need to go taller, and hadnt really thought about that with picking a turbo.

Fair enough. Have sent you a PM.

Amazing to see the difference the brakes and coilovers made. Sorry if I missed it mate, but who did your intake pipe? Relevant to my interests ??

God, reallyyyy makes me regret spending money on an Aim dash. Definitely wish I'd just put that money towards a C1212 and saved for 5 years longer ?

Oooo relevant discussion to what I'm considering for my build! Im considering a GTX3576R vs a GTX3582R for my full time track car. I'm also looking to be in the 400-450rwkw range, although for longevity of the drive train and likely undersizing of my plumbs, I'll be looking at operating primarily under 400kw with the option of turning it up on game day when I've decided its power and not driver skill that is holding me back ? Normally I would look at these results and say it looks like the 3576R is going to give me exactly what I'm after, but what complicates it for me is 2 things: 1. Dedicated track car vs results on a street car. Considering my car is going to be living in the upper rev range, would it be better to go with the bigger housing for the same power in an attempt to help the turbo breathe, or is that just a waste of usable power band? 2. 10:1 compression ratio. I'm bumping the compression up for my build rather than dropping it down, but what does that mean as a consequence for turbo selection? At least initially, cams are going to be baby Tomei 264's because that is what is already in there and there's no funds to upgrade in that field yet. Perhaps later I will pull the head off again and go to a 272 or something more suited to track work, but I also dont mind sacrificing a bit of top end considering I'll probably have more power than I use anyway.

So tell me, what HAVE you seen of the product development from those companies? You dont see it because you haven't got anything to do with those companies. Have you got any experience developing any sort of product at all? I can say with absolute certainty, those companies have revised and refined their products. Anybody that has been around for years will be constantly looking for improvements, thats how you stay at the top. I work in motorsport. I've seen suspension arms from Porsche Motorsport that needed milling to fit properly on a GT3R. I've seen that same GT3R need a new $27,000 starter motor because an inherent design flaw meant that when the car went into the sand trap it ingested some sand. Does that mean Porsche are no good? I've seen AP Racing supply dog bones for their own big brake kit for a Lotus Exige that were way off, didn't have a hope of fitting. Turns out they had revised their drawings since developing the product and hadn't tested them. Does that make AP Racing no good? Ive seen nitrous kits from Wizards of Nos that were burning out solenoids after idling for 10 seconds and they couldn't tell you why because they tried to change the game with a very clever design with very complex electronics, and somewhere along the line the guy doing the electronics had retired and the company lost that knowledge. Does that make Wizards of Nos no good? I've only been in the game for 8 years, so I can only imagine some of the things that people who have 30-40 years of experience have seen. Its just part of the industry, so yes - you are 100% a guinea pig. I have also seen a PRP block brace with integrated main caps that needed some refinement. Needed the parting faces milled, needed a groove machined behind the bearing saddle, and needed 2 holes tapped. Milling the parting faces and line boring is going to be a given, that can't be "spot on" off the shelf because it is different for every engine, thats part of the machining. As for the groove and the 2 untapped holes, that information was relayed back to Herman, he made the revisions and sent over a replacement. But it was hardly anything to write home about in the first place. To be clear, I am a massive fan of PRP. As I am of Hypertune, as I am of Plazmaman, as I am of Haltech, as I am of Turbosmart, as I am of any Australian company that is involved in developing high end products for a niche market. And doing it their way because they believe in their ideas and they have a genuine desire to be the best in the business. Honestly, it's one thing to say "nah I'm not going to run this product on my car, I like this product better". Its another to just casually slag off a small business because you once got a glimpse of the reality of product development. Comments like that can cause so much damage to a business, and when it's hearsay and opinions from people with no actual knowledge or experience then that is so frustrating to see.

Looks like a well thought out, proper kit, I like it.

Go on then, I'll bite... What is PRP doing wrong that Kulig have nailed? Or do you just not like them because they understand how to sell a product? For the record, every product needs marketing. Coke is the biggest soft drink company in the world, they still spend $4 billion a year on marketing. Being ambitious is not a bad thing, and it also has no bearing on the quality of your product. Understanding that is the difference between being a clever dude supplying a local niche market with a well made product, and being a clever dude with a well made product running a company on a global scale. As a small business owner myself who is absolutely passionate and committed to providing what I believe to be the most innovative and functional products on the market; nothing frustrates me more than seeing people so high up the first slope of the Dunning-Kruger effect that they are lost in the clouds, bleating out their opinions with the intelligence of a fainting goat. You're entitled to your opinion Benji, and I respect that you value quality. By all means, I'm sure we would all actually love to hear about what makes Kulig so good. But attempting to reinforce your position by just slagging off an Australian run business without actually bringing any facts at all just shades you as a man of average intelligence with an above average size wallet. /rant ??

Didn't realise you were in Perth! Who is tuning your car and who built the engine??

Outstanding. Just amazing piece of gear. This is why Motec is top of the line, and everything else is playing catch up.

Lots of proper gear in all the right places here, I like it. I like it a lot.

Ah yep, genuinely read that as an unrelated part of your post. Fairbumpplayon ?

Humorous reference to the natural tendency to completely blow the budget despite the intentions going into the build.

Yeh I mean I'm no expert, but for me, there are more differences than just the hardness of the gearset. If you get two next each other, there are lots of differences. I think the main one is that the N1 gears have one less tooth, which means you have a higher internal volume. That coupled with the clearly larger internal channels in the pump housing = more flow. How much? Who knows, but they were designed by clever people. In return, that obviously means that the N1 pumps also have a thinner wall on the outer gear, hence why people think the standard gears are bigger or stronger than the N1 gears. End of the day, that thickness does matter, but I don't feel you should be breaking billet gears unless you are using them in an application that would have been better served by spline drive. Those differences are enough for me to look at an N1 pump rather than a standard pump. Whether you go for that or a high flow aftermarket pump instead, that was a tougher choice for me.

And then forget what you decided and mash the go button on that Nitto stroker kit.

Yeh as GTSBoy says, you always need to realign the oil pump. Especially on a built motor where the tunnel has been line bored/honed and the crank will have moved in relation to the doweled oil pump, you need to get that concentric. Conveniently, PRP have just released their oil pump alignment tool: 35 bucks, easy as. As with anything engine building related, I would still check it with a dial indicator, but it's very reliable and much quicker than trying to do it without.