Unzipped Composites

Only $230 for a Supertec billet backing plate for the N1 pump. That's the route I've gone down with my build, billet gears and backing plate and I've got a Neo so N1 pump from factory. Obviously if you're buying a new pump, then you're getting pretty close to the cost of a Nitto, so its a toss up.

No no, don't misunderstand me! You definitely want billet gears, 100%. But they don't need to be the spline drive type gears that came out of your pump. You can get the direct OEM flat drive style gears for a good bit cheaper than the spline drive style, and for street use they will serve you just as well. For example. You can get the flat drive billet gears from Platinum Racing Products for $470: https://platinumracingproducts.com/collections/rb-accessories/products/prp-billet-oil-pump-gears-nissan-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30-oil-pump Or you can get their spline drive billet gears for $770: https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/prp-spline-drive-kit?_pos=1&_sid=529d7da06&_ss=r&variant=36097408893096 If you're feeling super cashed up, you can even get the Supertec spline drive kit for $1200: https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/supertec-racing-oem-oil-pump-spline-drive-kit-rb25-rb26-rb30?_pos=2&_sid=529d7da06&_ss=r If it were me, I would get a new N1 pump, and go the OEM flat drive style billet gears, and save 300+ bucks over the spline drive version. But I would NOT run the OEM sintered metal gears that come with the N1 pump.

Don't forget to put those other 2 wheel nuts on! Haha

BUT - with a Nitto pump you NEED an extended sump. With an N1 pump/billet gears in a street car, you could get away with an OEM sump. Not sure if the OP already has an extended sump from the first couple of builds, then a Nitto pump is maybe a cost effective option. But if he needs the extended sump then thats another $600-$1000 on top of the price of the Nitto pump.

Kind of your call to make. If you only intend to use it as a street car, it may be ok. But don't forget that the oil pump is the achilles heel of the RB. Is that really where you want to be drawing the line for the budget? There is also no real need for spline drive gears, nothing wrong with billet flat drive gears unless you plan to live on the limiter.

Yes of course, it is better. The OEM cooler isn't actually a cooler, it is a heat exchanger. More for warming the oil up quickly than keeping it cool. For street use, I would install a thermostat with the oil cooler as well, to help get the oil up to temp. Especially in Canada.

Ah, but if you walked into a paint supplier and asked for Pantone Yellow, there's 25 different shades of Pantone Yellow. Same goes for most colours. So you really want the manufacturer, the name, and the code. I'm also a bit surprised the painter isn't just colour matching the wheels. Most painters should be able to colour match very closely, and account for colour fade.

Can't help for a crank source in Canada, hopefully someone else here can. Oil cooler, get a Setrab or Mocal 19 or 25 row with minimum AN10 fittings. One of those coolers plus lines and fittings should come in under $600 for sure. N1 pump has higher flow over standard pump, so I would still get an N1 pump. If you want to reuse your gears, it also depends what pump your gears are from, N1 and standard are different size gears. Personally, I would get a new N1 pump, and if your gears don't suit it then new gears as well.

I had a pool once... The frogs love it.

Haven't got that far myself so I have no idea; but flick HFM an email. They are very helpful and quick in replying, so worth asking them.

Wouldn't have used wrinkle black myself. I therefore don't like you or your car, and I feel strongly enough about it that I'm going to take the time to tell you. /sarcasm #pleasebemyfriend

Yeh, I started with the same. But didn't go +T, I just swapped everything in from a donor GTT. Engine, gearbox, driveshaft, diff. But where is the difference? If he changes to an RB25DET gearbox, then the tailshaft should fit? The 33 boxes are the same as the 34 boxes other than pull/push, are they not? So provided the diff is changed too, then it should all just bolt up?

I'm not certain because I used everything from a 34 donor car, but considering the gearbox is the same I imagine the 34 GTT tailshaft will fit if you are also using a GTT diff?

I agree, I didn't mean get an accumulator and youre sorted - but it is a wonderfully affordable way of giving things a chance, they do work. End of the day, I think its crazy people are willing to drop $1500+ on a billet surge tank and 5 fuel pumps to protect from fuel surge, but not see the value of $500-$1000 to protect from oil surge ?‍♂️

Just run an oil accumulator for a bit of cheap insurance.

Yeh I would replace all of that stuff. End of the day, what's an oil cooler, $250-$300? What's a new engine build, 10k-15k? Imagine destroying that engine because you didn't want to buy a new oil cooler. Madness.

Well shit ? This is legit the 7th RB I know of thats seized this week. Just as I get my block back from the machinist. Its like the world is screaming at me to stop what I'm doing.

I wouldn't touch a modified block unless you can measure it and check what has been done to it. Honestly, there is a scary amount of work being done at sub-par levels. Machining an engine properly is not an easy thing, especially on an RB which has the girdle as opposed to individual main caps. Just line boring the tunnel properly should be a $1000 job if it is being done right. But a lot of places either don't know how to machine everything properly, don't have the equipment, or are happy to cut corners knowing that 99% of their customers won't measure what they have done. And when an engine spins a bearing because it didn't have full crush because the tunnel wasn't line bored properly, then nobody is going to point the finger at the machine shop and say they didn't do their job properly. Or when a headgasket lets go because the block/head weren't machined well enough, everyone will blame the headgasket before they look at the machinist. I'm not saying this is all machine shops either by the way, there are lots of good ones too. But you're putting a hell of a lot of trust in the one you pick to do your engine, because they don't have an easy job, and if they don't do it correctly then at the end of the day it's coming out of your wallet. So to use a block that has had work done by someone you don't know, that is very trusting indeed.

Pff, the ones out of their minds are the ones parking their S15 up in a Carcoon in a shed somewhere and pretending it is a Sandman. I kind of loath the direction our cars are going in, because it is the opposite of what made them popular in the first place. In 10 years time, track days are going to consist of a field of VW Polos and Hyundai I30's, because 95% of people with a 90's performance car will be too scared to use it. Those 5% that will still be out there - you're the real MVP's.

Did the machine shop actually measure anything or did you just talk to them and they haven't seen the engine? I don't feel like the machine shop can know if the block and crank can be fixed unless they have measured it. If that engine has been built twice before, you have no idea how much has been ground off the crank/is the crank bent at all; it looks like it has ARP main studs so you don't know how much the tunnel has been bored, you don't know how much has been decked off the block and head previously, etc. The thing about building engines is the machining all has to be spot on. When it has been built twice already and failed twice already, it's somewhat of a risk to go again unless you really trust your machine shop to know what they are doing and to do the job properly. For one thing, I can see whoever built the motor the first two times hasn't even bothered to clean up the cast marks in the block. That in combination with the 2 failures already and the types of failures - I would have very little confidence in that block and the previous work, let alone any subsequent work.

It won't have anything to do with Covid. Prices have been on the rise for the last couple of years. Having just pulled the Skyline off the road to go full race car - I try not to pay any attention to what clean 34's are selling for ?

ATI don't make them, they only make them for GTR's.

It does, and they do. You know that 'timbre' means sound quality, right? Catbacks and mufflers make a massive difference to the sound quality of a performance car.

I'll admit my throttle control needs some refinement, I'm a little light switchy with it. But never been one to sit on limiter. Really doubt the car will get used much for drifting. I'm not that into it, but my wife would like to try it. I can see us going to one drift school and never again haha, but you never know. Thanks guys, I was leaning towards the billet gears so I feel affirmed and shall sleep peacefully after hitting the order button.

This was pretty much my thoughts and what I was kind of leaning towards. Not a fan of the Spool spline drive kits then? I must admit I feel a little bit suspicious, but its not like Spool have a bad reputation?