Unzipped Composites

I've seen 700rwhp through the stock lines with no signs of being out of flow.

Sorry guys, I just got here. Is this... Is this the Bakemono thread? I can't work out where is the bants and where is the proper build specs. Dan, can you confirm if blue pulley is aerospace alloy? How many fuel pumps are in here, 5? 6? Seriously though. I'm feelin ya on the scope creep Dan. Somehow you go from mentally preparing for weeks to spend $2000, to just giving strangers your credit card details without even asking for a price first.

This is potentially a little bit off topic, but I'm trying to decide on what way to go with my oil pump and it doesn't feel worth starting a new thread. I'm sure I know the answers I'm going to get already, but I really just want to get some feedback on the choice. What would people recommend for a dedicated track car with a ~600hp Neo, I'm tossing up between a Nitto pump, OEM style billet gears in the stock N1 pump, or the Spool spline drive billet gears for the stock N1 pump. Obvs including a crank collar for each option. The Nitto pump feels like the 'obvious' choice given the power and the fact it's a dedicated track car - but are there serious disadvantages to the billet gears? Is the extra flow of the Nitto pump vs the N1 pump that crucial, or would I potentially be better spending the difference on an oil accumulator? And then spline driven billet gears vs the flat drive of the Nitto pump, is there a winner there? I know Nitto do their own spline gears for their pumps, but that is stretching the budget just a bit too far unfortunately. The car is being built for competitive Time Attack, but may do the odd bit of highly uncoordinated drifting.

Haha yeh, squealy brakes never annoyed me on the Skyline. On the Falcon or the Territory absolutely, but in the Skyline it just felt like part of the package. Goes with the loud fuel pumps and the hard suspension ?

Also possible that your tacho is out of calibration - I know mine says it idles at 2500rpm, but it's actually idling at 1000rpm. If you apply a correction in the ECU, then you can make it accurate at idle but takes it out in higher RPM. So I just left it. Other than that, it's likely a vacuum leak. Find someone in your area with a smoke tester and do a smoke test - virtually guaranteed to find something leaking.

I highly doubt any venue that isn't specifically used for motorsport is going to allow it - liabilities and such. Does Adelaide not have a drag strip you can use?

I doubt twin scroll effects it significantly- but potentially a little bit. Any decent performance manifold is going to give you a good sound. 6Boost is a safe bet, FullRace, Sinco, I think even Hypertune make them for 26's these days. Just don't get anything China. It sounds like what you're after is going to be pretty easy to achieve, you just don't want to go too big with the exhaust and you will want a couple of good straight through mufflers so that you dont get that tinny sort of ring. Any good fabricator is going to know how to build you an exhaust that sounds proper.

After watching the videos you posted, I would say the turbo has very little to do with the sound youre wanting. A good quality manifold will get you 75% of the way there. Then speak to a good fabricator that understands how exhaust design influences sound and performance, and get them to build you a full exhaust system. Then pick the rest of the build based on quality and performance.

There are so many other things that are going to effect that sound, other than the turbo. Your choice of manifold will make a huge difference. A good quality manifold can make an RB26 come to life. The size and design of your exhaust will make a massive difference, hell even the material its made from, ie. Mild steel/stainless steel/titanium - they all sound different. Cam selection, head work, etc. Even intake pipe - I made the exact same turbo on my car sound very different just going from a 3" stainless intake to a 4" carbon fibre intake. And then again going from the 4" carbon to a 4-6" carbon. Huge difference. Watching a video on YouTube and just picking the same turbo hoping to get the same sound is a good way to find disappointment. And I'm not bagging you out here, because I agree that sound is a massive part of the enjoyment you get from driving a car, especially as a daily. While I would always choose performance over sound, I'll admit to hoping I enjoy the sound when it all comes together. But you gotta be aware that there's a good chance you won't get the sound you're after just by choosing the same turbo - you would have to copy virtually the entire setup.

Mould was just too small lol. Well yeh, the mould was too small because it was made off some side skirts that were too small... Because they were off a smaller car... And have nothing to do with a 34.

Did it feel like you were going to capsize? Coming into turn 2 on the trapeze like:

I haven't done it, but from a composites perspective there's no reason at all why you couldn't. Can think of a few reasons why I wouldn't though... One issue you will have is that those bonnet lips don't have the recessed area that the GTR bumpers have, which is where the bumper closes onto it to sit flush. So you would either have to make that yourself, which may test your skills (or be expensive if you are paying someone to do it), or just have the bonnet sit behind the lip, which will look terrible. The hardest part is the bonnet. More specifically, the catch area. When you cut that lip off the GTT bonnet, you will have a massive gap between the outer skin and the inner skin that needs to be closed up. Not super difficult, but not as easy as modifying the fibreglass bumper. If you weld it shut, the heat will distort the bonnet and you will have to bog it flat - bog is shit and you don't want to use it unless you have too. My preference would be to bond it shut with a structural adhesive, but then you have to know what you are doing there for that to work well too. It will be easier and cheaper to sell your bonnet and bumper and buy GTR style panels. That bumper looks like a Z-Tune style with an incorporated lower lip. Should be quite easy to find.

The brakes on Skylines are 100% mechanical. The electrics don't affect how the brakes function. You could hardwire that switch and it wouldn't do anything but turn your brake lights on permanently. Unless you mean that the stopper was wound so far in that it prevented the brake pedal from coming all the way up? But I can't see how this would happen, then end of the switch is spring loaded and has a good 10-15mm of travel in it, while there is only maybe 5-10mm of thread behind the nut. Even if that was wound all the way in, it could maybe prevent about 1mm of travel (I think even that is unlikely though) and that is no where near enough to jam the brakes on. All it would do is cause your brake lights to not come on when you start braking.

Yeh, you would have to know the pinout for the gauges, solder wires onto the pins as flying leads, pot them and probably terminate in DTM connectors. Then run wiring to the sensors which is pretty easy. Massive pain in the ass for the sake of running inaccurate OEM gauges.

I hope you didn't pay someone to come to that conclusion...

Yes, you have the same thing. It is a buss connector for all your shield grounds. Basically any of the shielded signal wires that go to the ECU, so CAS, MAF, knock, etc, all have their shield earthed through that connector. If you look at the OEM circuit diagram, you will see a dotted line around some of the lines (pin 55, 54, 44, 45, 46, etc) - this dotted line indicates that shield ground.

Yeh go ARP main studs. And then make sure your machinist has a line bore machine and will actually line bore the tunnel properly. So many try to get away with not machining the parting faces, which is essentially the same as not doing the job at all. My tunnel was 2 thou out of round with the ARP studs, so needed 6 thou taken off the parting faces to take it back to the bottom limit and get it round again.

There's lots of ways to do it, some of them are a bit more of a hack job than a well setup system, but it all depends on what your car has as to what logic you use. Obviously the best is to have a brake/clutch pressure sensor, in combination with a strain gauge on the gear lever or a true gear position sensor so that the ECU knows if you are upshifting or downshifting and what gear you are going to be in before the clutch is engaged. This is why it is a bit simpler with a sequential compared to a H-pattern. But you can also somewhat fudge things based on logic using the brake light and a clutch switch vs falling road speed, etc. so it is perfectly possible to setup with a H-pattern as well.

Because it gives the ECU control of the throttle, which opens up possibilities as wide as your imagination. From being able to limit the throttle in certain situations such as overboost or low oil pressure or any other added safety that you want, it adds throttle cut to ignition and fuel cut as a prevention measure. Then the real benefits of things like auto-blipping on downshifts to rev-match, throttle modulation under wheel slip, adjusting the actual responsiveness of the throttle body to assist the driver, cruise control, instant cut-out in an accident, etc. When the ECU has control, you can make it do things faster than any driver can even think about let alone physically do themselves. Cable driven is 'dumb', you literally can't do anything with it that the driver is making it do. The flip-side is that it can be setup badly. So if your tuner doesn't know what they are doing or they just don't set it up well, then you can have lag in the throttle response, or you might get 100% throttle at only 50% of the pedal travel or vise versa, etc. Lots of people will complain about DBW setups, but it always comes down to how it was setup. A well setup DBW is hands down better than cable driven in every way.

The Fury isn't a plug-in, the plug-in is equivalent to the G4+ Xtreme (which is basically the same as the Fury but doesn't have onboard wideband control). In all honesty, comparing ECU's can get a bit confusing at face value. You need to know what you want from the ECU. If you need specific functions like knock control, launch control, traction control, wideband control, data logging, etc, then you can look at the ECU's capabilities and pick one. This is really for guys using their car for motorsport, because that is really the only situation where you might be thinking "ok, I could shave a bit of time off if my ECU could do X or Y". For a street car, where you just want good resolution to have accurate control of the engine and perhaps some safety features, then pretty much all modern ECU's are going to be able to do it for you. This is where the advice of 'ask your tuner what he recommends' becomes pretty valid, because if your tuner for any reason feels more comfortable tuning a Haltech vs a Link or vise versa, then go with that suggestion because at the end of the day your ECU is only going to do what the guy with the laptop tells it to do. If your tuner says "whatever you like, we can tune anything", which most of them will, then pick based on your budget. Plug-ins are going to be miles cheaper to setup compared to a full wire-in, so take that into account. My biggest piece of advice would be pay attention to how many inputs/outputs your ECU gives you. Most people will chew up AVI's very very quickly, so you want as many of those as you can get to suit your budget.

DBW is MILES better than cable driven, I really don't understand why more people aren't doing it yet. Definitely consider it a necessity and get it done, don't think twice!

Fair points.

I'm sure it does something. But perhaps being on the pressure side of the crank means it doesn't make as much difference as it should. Oil will be getting pushed up that line by the crank windage for sure. But it does probably also provide a path for the crank gasses without going up the drains. So it is maybe helping with the actual oil control problem, but you're still getting oil in the catch can simply because it is under pressure. For the R33 that wouldnt have mattered, that oil was just going back to the head rather than being evacuated completely. Interesting that they didn't use it on the 34 though....

Wrong side of the crank?

5000psi lap shear strength and even higher burst strength... it should be ok with boost pressure ? Heat is the bigger issue. Id like to do some data logging and record how hot the IAT's get in various situations. If it gets over 150° sustained for any period of time then it could be an issue.