MrStabby

Ok so the other test that seems easy enough (with the right equipment) would be to check what pressure the pump produces when its on. If its in spec its probably safe to just replace the pressure switch, and if not it makes sense to replace the whole unit. Does that sound sensible? EDIT: Do you have a spare pressure switch you want to sell?

Looks like both of my cars have pressure switch issues. The R32 GTR has 18 flashes on the ATTESSA controller which is "ETS pressure switch circuit". The 4WD light is intermittent, and often just restarting the car clears it. There is an $300 replacement option https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285675135148?itmmeta=01HXN3YKRGKQ08GRZ5KFKKZWJT&hash=item428390a0ac:g:6CcAAOSwWxBltMEG so if it becomes a permanent issue and I can confirm that the switch is the issue, i have a solution. The NM35 is reporting C1208, and disconnecting the switch causes the 4WD light to go away. Translating from the Japanese shop manual "when the pressure is reduced to 2.6MPa (377 psi) or less: conduction occurs when the pressure increases to 3.8MPa (550 psi) or less: conduction is present. Reference: • Immediately after the E-TS actuator motor stops, the pressure inside the accumulator is high and there is no continuity." Not sure how good the translation is but from what i can deduce this means the switch is normally closed (NC) and as the pressure builds from 0 to 550 psi the switch stays closed, then opens and 550 psi. As the pressure drops from 550 psi to 377 psi the switch stays open then closes again at 377 psi. Is that how these things work? These pressures are a lot higher than the R32 ("control pressure 0-228 psi") but i'm hoping i can find a generic switch (like they've done for the R32) to use as a replacement. Maybe something like https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/355586397452?epid=1676016964&itmmeta=01HXN534AF22ACTG6TGDDQGEQ7&hash=item52ca99d50c:g:mAEAAOSw8ilmBcMh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LtWdNlWHgyJ%2F3cbw25S2A1lde3qBi3fJii4T3lQavCz4kpqiD42SmBa4FocMvXCjcxiowHjb8vZ8%2BWxc53BkHv781tkStSnCDaenfGKC3bIp0keK20dfsn9LoPa3TfqaEmAydqqyKobgTdXsGGzsl%2BRjOVGuD8OIpOv%2B0wMl7aUtHg0iJtojbtzA%2BRS8Xfm8Ufjuvz4niwrqglAXFUbkL6J%2FGuHPeeECZhLBBN3iNM1Swl94Fv5zE95YK%2B5O6dxDN1ySNOjdMxkA8yaprbuwRHFQv1nlGh%2FWjekj6EUFR2%2FO4HTsoKtSAkY0Mj1w1uf1w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6zFjKXtYw but with a lower close pressure, and thread adapter if required. Am i dreaming?

I tried to translate using the google service and it translated the text in the .pdf which helped, but to be fully useful I need to find a service that will also OCR the text in the diagrams and translate that too. Looked like there might be some commercial options that will do that but haven't had time to chase those down.

IIRC (was a long time ago) - Yes the codes are different for each side, the parts are also different so you cant swap them. - from https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/electrical-ignition-fuel-c-21_69_809_810.html i got "1 x Cam Angle Sensor, Left Hand Bank to suit Nissan 350Z Z33 Series 1, Skyline V35 250GT / 300GT / 350GT & Stagea M35 250T / AR-X FOUR" and that's the easy side. Cant remember which code it was, but if you search here you may find it.

The plug and overall shape is like this, so pretty sure it will be pressure. I might take it out at the next oil change and see if I can find something that matches at repco etc. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/384995355321?epid=1919729804&hash=item59a382eab9:g:ps8AAOSw4WJiyCay&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8F9Oaku3Ppp%2FmeW7%2FHJPDA7F%2Fw363L0NsyW8o1qmsW62mO65N3ROKfKT4qfDecMf7jHHyzSx0ni5Bpq%2BjP7wraJk5LQ3uM39RlLe2b%2B1kxkiF2DdXBi9%2B1kkmzOz53ISseKFnfmQSZKeLOY8W4Jl%2FYqZ%2BcT4OWDPjAoinGnbdTGPjqOnk%2FTiHnUtjX5Wi%2BdIC6bayrcxIKKFqC0uj8ytQms%2BPXMPXyyEXvgs1fQUWkTnpWsh7QcUExekPpaO475unS6DagagsuhpSjsiNJLpuSqEcfEPUjWZcJEHFPkAcEF6wSLJuiDvpCA%2Fza7udSjh4w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMjomBuNFh

Was under the stag and noticed a sensor had snapped off. Checking FAST it shows the oil temp sensor (2pin, 22630D below) but does not show this other broken sensor (1pin). On the vehicle the sensor is pretty close the temp sensor, just further away from the bracket mounting face. So, given there's no CEL and AFAIK no easy way to find the part number, is it safe to ignore? (what would be be? pressure?)

Cant remember the brand (could be mongoose) but it was installed in 2008. Where was the unit? Was it a removable relay?

Ok, the switch connectivity matches your information. Re-checked the fuses and all good. Perhaps the immobilizer has died? The alarm beeps on and off and opens/closes the door locks, so its working to that extent. Will checking the immobilizer involve finding where its wired into the IGN circuit (assuming that's the case) and verifying it closes the circuit when its disabled or is there more to it than that?

I've taken the two green relays behind the ECU out, applied 12V across the signal side and the output switch closed, so they're ok. I assume one is ECCS and the other is IGN Coil from the wiring diagram. Tested the windows in IGN/ON and they dont work, so i guess that means its likely the ignition switch, right?

Appears to be power to ECU. Also, if the clock and stereo come on, doesnt that rule out ignition switch? Another symptom is cant make a CONSULT connection in Nistune (albeit using untested setup)

After being stopped for 5 mins, tried to restart but not a cough. Turns over quickly, but there's no dash lights and no power to the fuel pump relay (FPCM has been deleted ages ago). Clock and stereo has power (on IGN). Couldnt find any dead fuses. My first guess is that its ECU related (does that match the symptoms?) its a stock ECU fitted with Nistune. Checked the internal LED but it does not light - is that LED only for diagnostic codes or should i expect it to light on IGN on? What should i check next?

My cooling issues were blocked radiator and weak fan clutch, not bleeding issues. I replaced the radiator with a Fenix ($400), which is higher capacity/wider than the stocker (~$800). Here's how to fix the fan clutch; Re: air block/heater bypass hose, don't know what that is, but if its bled it should be fine. Just follow the bleeding guide.

I'm thinking these might be close enough for the intercooler to manifold bits - can anyone confirm? https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-45-elbow-2.5-63mm-black/SPO3386267.html 45 ELBOW 2.5'' (63MM) BLACK Wall 5mm PLY Layers 4 Length 125 × 125mm And https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/pat-double-hump-hose-3-76mm-black/SPO3386182.html DOUBLE HUMP HOSE 3'' (76MM) BLACK Wall 5mm PLY Layers 4 Length 102mm

Is there any procedure to get flashing LEDs or is it OBD only? Anyone know of any IOS OBD apps that can read them? I have hobdrive which works for the engine stuff.

The 4WD light is on and there is a slight shudder at start (from stopped), and shuddering at parking/large steering angles. So far i've; - checked the fluid level - bleed it - verified that front wheels are driven by putting the car up on stands What else can i do?

FYI connecting Earth, IGN and BAT to the factory head unit is enough to get the climate controls working.

Found this; "I'm about to order a single din ac control board from the states. This is what you need if you're getting rid of your pos bose integrated stereo (or the non bose integrated). You need this board because the ac controls are all part of the clarion (bose) circuit board and when you remove the stereo you remove the ac controls."

Ok, so the 15amp 'radio' fuse near the battery had blown. Replaced it and the new radio works again. However, it appears that the climate controls are dependent on the factory radio being plugged in. admS15s post above made me think that maybe the ac controls are getting earth from via the oem radio connector, so i tried earthing its chassis but it didn't seem to help. So my next guess is it needs the BAT and IGN +12v? Anyone know if the climate controls require the oen radio plugged in/what the dependency is?

To answer my own questions; - (Some/all) head units don't come with ISO connectors so (some/most/all) connections are via two harness adapters, eg a nissan to iso female, then iso male to pioneer/JVC/whatever. - I also needed a 'Nissan Double Diversity' aerial adapter (Aerpro AP348A). IIRC the R32 skyline had the same aerial connector as the Stagea. So for the Stag to JVC, i got; - 'Nissan ISO Connector' APP0120 - 'JVC to ISO Harness 16 pin' APP8JVCS - Nissan Double Diversity' AP348A It worked once then nothing. Suspect there is an underlying wiring issue that was present before the change as i had issues with the factory system.

Currently i need to plug my phone in with a cable to play music in my Stag, and i want to change to bluetooth and keep the center console volume button working as it does now. An aftermarket head unit had been installed in the passenger side slot where the navigation system usually lives, and the navigation system was retained but moved underneath. The aftermarket head unit daisy chains with the factory system such that when TV is selected on the center console, i can play music from my phone via cable. The audio appears to work by connections run from the head unit to the factory TV box at the rear of the car. Makes sense that the audio works when TV is selected. Question - is there any weird dependencies that will mean i can't take the Nav unit and TV unit out of the system? I'm hoping i can just splice the audio out from the new headunit into the audio out from the TV box.

I've bought a ctek mxs 5.0 (mentioned by BK above, $129 delivered from ebay) and the instruction video says you can leave it connected for extended periods of time. So, refer to vendor doco, but as trident says seems like any good one should be able to be left connected indefinitely.

- Do most modern aftermarket head units come with ISO male connectors at the back? - So, when fitting a modern head unit to a modern car you typically need a single harness adapter, eg nissan to ISO female - When fitting an older head unit you'd typically need two harness adapters, eg a nissan to iso female, then iso male to pioneer/JVC/whatever - Are all the <$300 no brand Android head units dogshit? tnx

I have a battery isolator, so AFAIK there's no benefit to a trickle charger, right?

Ended up getting a NS40ZLX after confirming the cables just reach by using an old NS40ZL from the Stagea. The bonnet is still well clear of the positive terminal, so only slightly ghetto.

Century have confirmed the NS40ZX has been discontinued