MrStabby

Perhaps its counter intuitive from a fluid flow perspective, but if we consider the momentum of the pieces of turbine as the wheel lets go - those pieces are mostly flying off toward the manifold against the direction of fluid flow, due to the shape of the turbine lead in. So short manifold = not enough time for the exhaust to slow the shrapnel down and it makes it all the way pass the exhaust valve. Just a theory.

Unless the standard ones are broken, yes.

Some random points; - Turbos have a service life, and while most are careful with replacing say timing belts at the specified interval, few seem to care about replacing turbos in the same way, which leads on to; - A problem with ceramic is the way it fails, not just the fact that it fails. Since it's brittle it disintegrates unlike steel wheels, and this failure mode is much more likely to trash the engine.

Black smoke = rich mixture, burnt oil produces while/blue smoke. When you say lots of oil, is it just greasy on the inside or is it dripping? Do you need to top up the oil between changes?

Symptoms are: no ability to make boost, and crappy running if you run the motor under the conditions in which it would have made boost. The working turbo will just push air backwards through the broken turbo's compressor, therefore no boost at the plenum. Idle and low throttle are fine as you are in vacuum.

What do the plugs look like when they come out? Photo plz

True, but its still nowhere near as effective as Nismo stickers.

I have an oil cooler with thermostat. According to the factory gauge, the oil is up to 70 degrees after 10 minutes of driving.

Yes that's right. That wont help, its only changing the physical socket from DB9 to DB25 - you still have to have RS232 driving it. A parallel port isnt RS232 so you cant make a serial port out of it.

Yeah why copy KKR when you could copy HKS? GuiltToys explanation passes the common sense test. Its probably like the D2 G4 brake stuff. Manufacturing company makes it, sales/wholesaling companies badge it and sell it.

Have you compared the lift between the two sets of cams?

I'd be trying to get that bit out without pulling the head - have you exhausted all options? Re: machining the head, on cast heads you can use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure how out of straight it is. There should be spec in workshop manual about how much is ok without machining. I wouldnt imagine that alloy would be any different, but i'm sure the workshop manual will have the info.

Ring them and ask. Cool Should be straightforward. I can't add anything over what i've already said, other than that JustJap price for the HKS GT-SS seems very expensive. Nengun used to be $3500 landed including tax.

You could turn off closed loop then tune for 14.7 in the map cells that are usually closed loop and achieve similar economy. You could even tune leaner and potentially get more economy. Closed loop gives you precision and compensation if other components fall out of spec. IMO closed loop = WIN. I dont think people should suggest going open loop without explaining the consequences. I reckon you should go NISTune over PowerFC AS LONG AS your tuner is happy to tune it. Its cheaper, Australian, and on par with powerfc in function (both have their strengths and weaknesses). Also please get a real cat. Decats are for the sort of people who piss in the street...

You dont need a catch can - your tune will have taken that effect into account. If you're running a standard ECU its very conservative so likewise no problems. Overfill your oil - some say add an extra litre - some say fill it to the bottom of the "bump" above the full line on the dipstick. If you havent changed your brake fluid in the last 12 months do that now, and use DOT 5.1 or better. If they're street pads keep an eye on them, they may wear out very quickly. You'll need to play with tyre temps, and you probably want it to feel a bit doughy when you first get out and they're cold, so that when they warm up you'll be right. You'll probably want to start in the 30-35psi range cold, then measure again when hot. You should do a warm up lap and a warm down lap. At Wakefield lots of guys just go out and do a kay or two on Braidwood road at 100 to cool the car down.

Re; N1's dont consider 32 or 33 N1s, only the 34s are worth having. The 2860-7 is identical to the 34 N1, you can probably get a pair for $2600. HKSs will be more expensive, but maybe not so bad anymore that we're back at 80c to the USD. Cheapest proper ECU option is Nistune @ $400 + around $50 to fit to your ECU. Next up is powerfc at $1000. For either a tune will be ~$600. Re dumps i got xforce for ~$300 delivered from some mob in New Zealand off ebay....seem ok except for on 32s the o2 sensor mounting is not up to scratch. $70 fix. Get a good metal matrix cat if you dont have one already.

Since you've got to do the turbos, you should do o2 sensors, and put some decent dumps on while you're at it. If the o2's are shagged it will cause poor fuel consumption, and IIRC the maintenance interval for them is 40,000kms... I've just replaced my turbos with some highflows and modified xforce dumps, also replaced the two hoses coming from the PS reservoir, so check them and also check the air con and high pressure PS hoses while you're in there. Replace anything not it top shape, because you really wont want to be going back in there anytime soon, its a bastard job. I would either go to ~270kw and keep the standard injectors and MAFs, or go 320kw with bigger injectors and Nismo MAFs. Turbos are Garret 2860 -7 or -9 or HKS GT-SS. You will also need aftermarket ECU and tune. You probably wont get the injectors and MAFs with your budget.

OMFG i hope that's a photochop...

SkyD & works - post up some photos

Dude did you see the QUOTE (Mattw_83 @ 15 Mar 2009, 12:12 PM) at the top? I wasnt answering your question... But - have you got the correct internal circlip on yours? It shouldn't be able to pop out. IIRC it holds down a nylon "cup" that the ball on the shifter sits in.

Will a VL gasket fit? If so, they should be easy to get.

It depends on how you drive. You can punish your gearbox with the standard shifter as well, its just that the sort shifter makes it easier to change gears more quickly. Lots of very fast changes will eventually take their toll. Dont drive like a dick and you'll be fine.

I think you're going OTT with all this gear oil changing. The factory drain interval for 32 GTR is 100,000 on mineral oil. Synth should last three times that..... Syntrax is quality stuff..... You could get your used oil analysed if you want some scientific corroboration of the above. Would cost less than a gearbox fill.

IIRC the push or pull clutch is determined by the bellhousing, and you can swap bellhousings between gearboxes. Push is a backwards step and can be unreliable with a strong pressure plate spring - i think the pivot can break. You should be able to find this with searching, my memory is shot.

If you're going to boil the thermostat; - of course if it doesnt open at all with boiling water its stuffed - just because it opens in boiling water doesnt necessarily mean its opening at the right temperature. So its best to have the a thermometer. Not sure what the opening temp will be, but i'd guess about 70, definitely less than 85. You could also just remove the thermostat and go for a drive, tho it will take much longer to get up to temperature, so dont thrash it early.