MrStabby

Re; Nankangs - use Mr Searchy to find other peoples opinions, but from what I remember, NS1s are scary dangerous with no grip, NS2s are only a little better. Other cheapish stuff like federal 595SS or falken 452 were rated much better grip wise.

Random, uneducated thoughts about what could be risky for oil starvation; - High revs, especially during long sweeping corners - High grip suspension/tyres (the oil will be sloshed up the side of the sump harder in corners) - High volume oil pump (more oil out of the sump more quickly) - Thick oil (will take longer to drain back down) So if i were you; - Overfill the oil to the bottom of the top hump on the dipstick - Dont use R-spec or slick tyres - Dont rev too high, maybe change at 7000, and short shift where you cant use full power out of corners. This will be more of a problem with laggy turbos that need revs - Use a good synthetic 0w-40 or 5w-40 rather than a 10W-60... Also some people say that adding an oil cooler will help with oil starvation - i'd love someone to explain how that works to me. Why not PM the guys that lost motors and ask what, if anything, they did to stop/resist oil starvation (assuming the motor wasnt lost to through some other reason)

Useless comparison i'm afraid. You're comparing street tyres with R specs.

So you're talking inside the car right? Check the seal on the fuel tank. In the boot there's a metal plate held on by four screws to the right of the wheel well. Under it there's a big black ring that holds the fuel pump and gauge assembly. There's a seal that sits between the assembly and the ring. Make sure that seal is in good condition and the ring is tight. Other than that i've used gaffa tape around the metal plate to stop any fumes from entering the boot. The boot doesnt have an airtight barrier into the cabin, so any smell in the boot gets straight into the cabin. FWIW i dont think my car smells bad outside. Cat and o2 sensors are known good.

Thats nuts; 4 kg at the front and 6.5 kg at the rear! If its were 6.5 at the front and 4 at the rear it wouldn't be bad at all...

Using Pedders would be like getting a service at ultra tune... If it were me i'd find a specialist that knows skylines.

Nistune dont do R33; "We are thinknig about doing a board for R33 RB25DE/RB25DET but it involves a fair amount of work, and the parts to interface with the existing 84 pin MCU on this ECU. It is a very difficult board to get started on and requires whole new firmware code to be implemented, whilst supporting customers with our existing product line. I will start drafting schematics once Type 5 has been finished and we have got the knock sensing functionality working. If you are looking for something to get these going then we suggest either using a HCR32 Skyline or Z32 300ZX ECU with a Type 2 board. See our FAQ topics for more information regarding these ECUs. Your other option, if you really want to use the R33 ECU is to use an emulator with an expensive third party daughter board (pictured above) available from Sam at www.drdrift.com.au"

What power do you want on what fuel? Should be ok for 500hp at the flywheel on pump according to http://z31.com/software/injector.pl

Why do 5/6 get hotter? Is that why ppl richen up 6? Or does 6 run a little leaner than the others so its just compensating?

Perhaps its counter intuitive from a fluid flow perspective, but if we consider the momentum of the pieces of turbine as the wheel lets go - those pieces are mostly flying off toward the manifold against the direction of fluid flow, due to the shape of the turbine lead in. So short manifold = not enough time for the exhaust to slow the shrapnel down and it makes it all the way pass the exhaust valve. Just a theory.

Unless the standard ones are broken, yes.

Some random points; - Turbos have a service life, and while most are careful with replacing say timing belts at the specified interval, few seem to care about replacing turbos in the same way, which leads on to; - A problem with ceramic is the way it fails, not just the fact that it fails. Since it's brittle it disintegrates unlike steel wheels, and this failure mode is much more likely to trash the engine.

Black smoke = rich mixture, burnt oil produces while/blue smoke. When you say lots of oil, is it just greasy on the inside or is it dripping? Do you need to top up the oil between changes?

Symptoms are: no ability to make boost, and crappy running if you run the motor under the conditions in which it would have made boost. The working turbo will just push air backwards through the broken turbo's compressor, therefore no boost at the plenum. Idle and low throttle are fine as you are in vacuum.

What do the plugs look like when they come out? Photo plz

True, but its still nowhere near as effective as Nismo stickers.

I have an oil cooler with thermostat. According to the factory gauge, the oil is up to 70 degrees after 10 minutes of driving.

Yes that's right. That wont help, its only changing the physical socket from DB9 to DB25 - you still have to have RS232 driving it. A parallel port isnt RS232 so you cant make a serial port out of it.

Yeah why copy KKR when you could copy HKS? GuiltToys explanation passes the common sense test. Its probably like the D2 G4 brake stuff. Manufacturing company makes it, sales/wholesaling companies badge it and sell it.

Have you compared the lift between the two sets of cams?

I'd be trying to get that bit out without pulling the head - have you exhausted all options? Re: machining the head, on cast heads you can use a straight edge and feeler gauges to measure how out of straight it is. There should be spec in workshop manual about how much is ok without machining. I wouldnt imagine that alloy would be any different, but i'm sure the workshop manual will have the info.

Ring them and ask. Cool Should be straightforward. I can't add anything over what i've already said, other than that JustJap price for the HKS GT-SS seems very expensive. Nengun used to be $3500 landed including tax.

You could turn off closed loop then tune for 14.7 in the map cells that are usually closed loop and achieve similar economy. You could even tune leaner and potentially get more economy. Closed loop gives you precision and compensation if other components fall out of spec. IMO closed loop = WIN. I dont think people should suggest going open loop without explaining the consequences. I reckon you should go NISTune over PowerFC AS LONG AS your tuner is happy to tune it. Its cheaper, Australian, and on par with powerfc in function (both have their strengths and weaknesses). Also please get a real cat. Decats are for the sort of people who piss in the street...

You dont need a catch can - your tune will have taken that effect into account. If you're running a standard ECU its very conservative so likewise no problems. Overfill your oil - some say add an extra litre - some say fill it to the bottom of the "bump" above the full line on the dipstick. If you havent changed your brake fluid in the last 12 months do that now, and use DOT 5.1 or better. If they're street pads keep an eye on them, they may wear out very quickly. You'll need to play with tyre temps, and you probably want it to feel a bit doughy when you first get out and they're cold, so that when they warm up you'll be right. You'll probably want to start in the 30-35psi range cold, then measure again when hot. You should do a warm up lap and a warm down lap. At Wakefield lots of guys just go out and do a kay or two on Braidwood road at 100 to cool the car down.

Re; N1's dont consider 32 or 33 N1s, only the 34s are worth having. The 2860-7 is identical to the 34 N1, you can probably get a pair for $2600. HKSs will be more expensive, but maybe not so bad anymore that we're back at 80c to the USD. Cheapest proper ECU option is Nistune @ $400 + around $50 to fit to your ECU. Next up is powerfc at $1000. For either a tune will be ~$600. Re dumps i got xforce for ~$300 delivered from some mob in New Zealand off ebay....seem ok except for on 32s the o2 sensor mounting is not up to scratch. $70 fix. Get a good metal matrix cat if you dont have one already.