MrStabby

Its supposed to have some free play (more than you may imagine) - you're not going to know if its a problem unless you measure it and check the specs. My experience with ceramic turbine is that its black. The so called "knock" map on std nissan ECUs is also known as the "regular" map, is for regular (not premium) fuel. I *think* its designed to work on 95.

First ring the mechanic back and verify he was talking about the carbon (aka charcoal) canister. IIRC the canister will have two hoses connected - on for the valve (round thing on the top, receives a vacuum signal to actuate), and one that connects to the contents of the canister (which holds fuel vapour). Just pinch them both off and go for a drive - that will tell you if there's a problem or not. I'd say if there is a problem it would be similar to any other sort of vacuum (and therefore boost) leak. The canister is right next to the power steering pump, as nismoid described. If it doesnt make any difference, try a different mechanic.

Yep. If you wanted to spend more for the sake of reliability, you could get your current turbo rebuilt. Or even by a rooted one and get that rebuilt, so your car isnt off the road for too long.

Check paulr33's PFC faq; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru...ts-t269306.html Some suggestion in ^ thread that they should be run in - so how is it done and when, if at all, should i change then engine oil? FWIW they're stock GTR turbos highflowed.

To talk the the factory ECU you need a CONSULT cable and software for your laptop. It will show what the sensors are displaying and from that you can deduce their condition. I have the PLMS consult cable. It works. http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.shtml

That's a big call. If the device is solid then it will have no ability to absorb vibration. We should really call them harmonic dampeners so we can avoid the "balancing" red herring (tho IIRC on some motors they have counterwieghts which is probably where the balancer name comes from). Even a perfectly balanced motor needs a harmonic dampener, as every crank will resonate, any every crank gets hit with by conrods. Of course under certain circumstances (maybe drag only) you can get away with weird stuff.... Also i'd be concerned that the rb26 and rb25 cranks have different resonant frequencies and unless the harmonic dampener is equally good at dampening the frequency of the rb25 crank, an rb26 dampener might not work well. Whoever's got both cranks should hang them up and tap them with a hammer to see if they produce the same note...if they do the 26 dampener should be fine. ^^^ all theory, so could be BS

Since your engine builder has suggested that turbo - use it. If you dont have faith in your engine builder - go somewhere else and use whatever turbo they suggest. If you dont follow your engine builders advice they have an out if there's a problem, and there's more likely to be a problem as other stuff like headwork, cams etc will be selected to work well together. Throwing a random, potentially missmatched piece of kit into the mix is not a good approach.

I had 335fr 345rr and moved to 355fr 345rr - i like it a LOT better. Only got a few laps in at Wakefield before the rear turbo let go, but i'm sure it will be significantly faster. When i asked about height the gurus said make sure you have 10mm higher at the front (most important) and then that 355 front was optimal. I also got my car corner weighted (and aligned of course). I figure do it once do it properly, but if your current suspension is not up to standard it might be worth getting that sorted before the corner weighting.

From what i remember from other posts you have to use the R33 synchos but to be able to do that you need a number of other parts, and it ends quite expensive. Do a search and you'll find the info.

You're doing it wrong. Start with a target power figure or budget, and the hardware will then fall out from that. Dont start with the hardware first....

Most ppl with GTRs go with same size all round as they are front heavy and understeer, so except for cosmetic reasons its not worth going fatter at the back. ~255s are often ok without rolling but different makes of 255s have different tread widths, which might be surprising to you. For Falken 615s in 255 i rolled the rears, but other 255s are ok without it.

You must have LSD in good condition at the front. I have heard it makes LSD operate like they're "tighter", so less friendly but better lock up.

Other than the time and frustration there's not that much to it. Just take some pictures as you go so you can remember how to put it back together. Do you have the workshop manual on pdf?

The $137 makita was fine. I used a single stone tip which didnt seem to wear at all, and a "flappy" one that seemed to wear quickly. I guess a carbide burr would have been quicker but i didnt have much material to remove.

Or leave it until one of them burst? Unfortunately that mightent be far away since its a 32.

yep, plenum off, i dont see how you'd get to the hoses any other way. Oh and its a BITCH of a job.

You've been subjective with spring rates and camber in your post - what are the numbers? Have you tried pineapples in the "traction" configuration? Although IIRC SK reackoned on 32 GTRs the "neutral" config was better, so maybe try both.

Next to passenger side strut tower. It will have two wires connected to the cap, which will turn on a warning light when the fluid level is low.

Risking - any comment on durability with the D2s, or is the jury still out on that? PS - i'm loving your old Teins..

I used to have 10 front 8.5 rear and a driving instructor told me the rear was too stiff for Eastern Creek. I now have 8.2 front and 6.4 rear, which was a fellow SAUers Oran Park spec. They're about right for me, but i like stiff suspension. Agree that 10-12 is nuts....

err unplug, and unscrew the old one, then screw in and plug in the new. Probably worth re-setting your ECU afterwards. Piece of piss (unless you own a GTR....)

Wow - i thought N1s/-7s/GT-SS were out of puff at about 330kw... Please put this in the RB26 turbo sticky.

Hey Deviat Did the master fit? Yep got the parts, now its the 'fun' bit - turbos back on....

Got the dumps back from Castle hill exhaust - only $70 and nice work. Thanks all for the recommendations.