MrStabby

The spring sits on height adjustment rings just like any other adjustable coilover. Wind them down to lower it, using a C spanner. Easy. Just remember; - you'll need to get it aligned again if you change the height - if you want to do it properly you should get it corner weighted - if you lower it too much you'll have to get aftermarket adjustable bushed/arms to be able get the alignment right - if you lower it too much it will handle like crap

A short inside the coil causing high current and therefore heat? Ie manufacturing imperfection, so return it if its still under warrantee.

Dude, just check the castrol website for this soft of info..... Off the top of my head (could be wrong, so double check), synTRANS is recommended for TRANSmissions, and syntrax is recommended for diffs. Generally GL4s are better for transmissions and GL5s are better for diffs, just make sure you get something that's suitable for LSD if you have one. If your gearbox is getting tired, many here have found that Redline lightweight shockproof has helped - it aint cheap tho.

Dunno about that plate... I just swapped an old set of teins for some newer ones. Each unit was self contained, with nothing between the top of the coilover and the mounting point on the car body. Can you take some pictures?

Ok...so lets bring it all together; - There is consensus that its detonation from excessive timing - The reason the engine died is that the detonation was not detected, and tuning continued through it -> THEREFORE to avoid another rebuild you MUST get functional knock detection going before you run the next engine - Your tuner is using his knowledge from other motors which clearly does not apply in this case. So either you need to find an RB expert, or find some other way to address the risk of continuing to use this tuner. The knock detection will address some of that risk. - The question of Nissan CAS with aftermarket ECU compatibility has been raised, so perhaps it would be worth trying Nistune with a standard ECU (difficult on R33 tho). You could then verify that there is no knock with factory maps (which would be a nice sanity check + starting point), and eliminate the potential compatibility issue. - The readings you have for timing may be false, or the ideas you have about what is the right timing are false, or you may be calculating/measuring static compression incorrectly; in particular, Fineline suggested that static compression of 9.0 is too much and that you should go back to 8.5. blind_elk's RB25 with low boost runs 8 degrees of timing, you were running 16 (with the outstanding question of whether this is total or the increase over static). When nothing makes sense, it means that something you think you KNOW is WRONG. Good luck.

Nice resurrection... Needle roller for spigot = FAIL, literally. (Second hand info from a mechanic who has seen multiple failures on RBs. Dont know if the failure was due to running dry or inability to handle the load or some other reason). Use a conventional bush bearing like Nissan chose. IIRC they're sintered, so you need to fill them with grease.

Old/worn gearbox = lightweight shockproof ("smurfs blood", blue) Good gearbox = MT90 (yellow)

So is that damage due to just two dyno runs? ie you were running it in on the dyno? How did it sound? With that much damage i imagine it would have been rattling its head off with detonation, but could you hear that? Have you double checked static compression? (IIRC the other thread states 8.5) Has your builder/tuner done a lot of RBs?

link for GTR -9s should be http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...9R_707160_9.htm The bollocksed up naming has tripped you up - it mentions the -9s are 330hp in the blurb, but 360hp under "powershift". Pretty sure the 330 is the right number.

Not sure if your car has one, but it could be the fuel pump contol module. On a 32 GTR they're behind the trim, right hand side of the rear seat.

Tuning is always done with feedback off, for clarity. You tuner probably just forgot to turn it back on when he finished...You definatly dont need a re-tune. Good find - it will be interesting to see what you get on the next tank!

Absolute snake oil bullshit. I'm really surprised that they dont get done for false advertising. The only result of fitting will be a slight reduction in power due to the introduction of a restriction in the intake path.

Its always recommended to machine it smooth again, but if the surface is in good condition i wouldnt bother (doesnt mean you shouldnt) because getting the flywheel off is a bitch, and then you've got to drop the flywheel off blah blah..... It would be a lot harder to make a warrantee claim if you dont have a reciept for the skimming tho....

Which bolts are you talking about? Flywheel to crank or pressure plate to flywheel? The flywheel to crank bolts are pretty chunky, so there's less chance that some retard has damaged them by torquing them up too much. The pressure plate to flywheel bolts on the other hand..... Also, - make sure that the dowels are in place before you re-fit the pressure plate - use engine oil on the threads of the flywheel to crank bolts (the torque spec assumes you have done this) - new or machined flywheel is not going to make any difference about re-using the bolts AFAIK - you should really check the workshop manual to see if the bolts are re-useable... i re-used mine because i didnt even think about whether they should be replaced or not

Narrowband sensors only meaningful readings are "rich" or "lean", if you want to know the mixture they cant help other than to say if the mixture is less or more than 14.7:1.

Yeah bushes only. I checked out the isc website - the arms he has are rose jointed, and AFAIK that means; - excellent control - increased NVH - shorter life (ie years instead of decades you'd get with bushes, also there doesnt appear to be any dust covers which would help) - illegal for street use If you're concerned about rose joint life, use search - its been discussed here before. If you're concerned about the legality ask Ryan directly to provide proof they're street legal - i could be wrong (and am interested to know for sure)

I have new o2 sensors and better dumps to go in but is there anything else i should replace at the same time? For example, do the manifold to head studs deteriorate with 20 years of head cycling? It it worth heat wrapping the manifolds or dumps?

If you're not lowered, just get an alignment. If you are lowered, put the kit in first then get the alignment. For my low GTR i needed two kits, i guess they put one at each end of the upper control arm.

Wearing on only one side is odd - any thoughts on why its not both sides? Something damaged perhaps? What are your current alignment settings? Usually when you lower the car you need to add adjustability, and the more you lower it the more adjustability you require.

It probably explains the fuel economy problem. Factory o2 sensors are narrowband, which means they read either "lean" or "rich". When the ECU sees lean, it keeps richening up the mixture until it sees rich, then it keeps leaning out the mixture until is sees lean again, over and over. So what you should see in consult is the o2 sensor readout swinging backwards and forwards very quickly. I'm pretty sure R33/34 have zirconia sensors, and according to wikipedia "An output voltage of 0.2 V (200 mV) DC represents a lean mixture. <snip> A reading of 0.8 V (800 mV) DC represents a rich mixture". The R32 sensors are titania, and they read 0 when they're dead. Perhaps 0.04v on your zirconia means the same thing??? Do the sensor outputs bounce around when you blip the throttle? Maybe get someone with a wideband (ie any dyno) to check the mixture at a 60km cruise. If its not 14.7:1 then closed loop control is not working, and that will stuff your economy. I'm not an expert on any of this stuff - i could be wrong. Re: 2K rpm in 5th or 2.4k rpm in 4th. Probably not that much difference. You could run a back to back test looking at injector duty with CONSULT if you really want to find out. Lower injector duty = better economy (at cruise at least)

Factory o2 sensors are narrowband, so nothing you can get from the ECU will help. You need a wideband to read mixture. Try searching for wideband here and in Forced Induction.

Dr Turbinestone I presume?? FWIW the engine seems to be running fine....all the way from Goulburn to Sydney...

I'll either put the highflows i already have on, or sell them and get dash 9s... no more ceramics! But, if the motors stuffed do you do 26/30s (after the obligatory forklift joke :-)? Any more expensive than a plain 26?