MrStabby

So, first thing is check the cat to see if there are any turbine pieces in there, and if so then check the compressors to see if there's any damage. If the compressors are in tact then the motor should be ok - right?

Symptoms; - giving it stick at the track - suddenly no power (didnt hear a bang), notice its not generating any boost - notice one of the in-line air filters (well thats what they look like) on the boost contoller tubing has split apart, so replace it with a piece of tube, still no boost - check all visible turbo/plenum tubing - pull front bar to check intercooler piping and cant find anything blown off (only 13 psi after all) - if i let the throttle snap shut it stalls - a little bit of oil smoke if i take it to where it would usually boost.... but with vacuum, no smoke

o2 sensors; at cruise they should constantly flick back and forth, if they arent doing that, they're stuffed, or the ECU cant control the mixtures for some reason (dying fuel pump, air leak etc etc) Tuning lean; when the o2 sensors are operational (in closed loop control, ie at cruise or low throttle) the AFR will be 14.7. The only place you can tune lean is when the ECU is in open loop. Of course you can turn off closed loop with PFC, but that would be going backwards. Re; 5th gear - you're 6 speed so is 5th 1:1? What revs are you doing at 60 in 5th?

Correct - its not water/condensation. That will all boil off even before you cars fully up to temp. My guess is oil - what does the dipstick say? Dead cat = black smoke.

Wheel center to top of guard

Heasmans did mine; with 94kg driver; street car FR 478.5 FL 473.5 RR 353.0 LR 306.5 Front rear = 59.1 / 40.9 %

Linked from the Nistune site: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/niss...ning_basics.pdf

So i guess that's pretty much /thread, but is upgrading the rears a wank anyways? Risking told me that even with the standard rears and something like 360mm + chunky calliper at the front, he still has too much rear brake bias on his race car (or is that a special case)...

I have no first hand knowledge, but from what i've observed/read/heard; - Oz tuners tend to like 12:1, jap tuners more like 10.8:1 - To a limited degree you can trade off AFR and timing (jap tuners tend to use more timing as well as more fuel) - A tune trades off risk vs power. I am risk averse, so i'm running 11.5 (also to keep EGTs down with my old ceramic turbine wheels...). You should tell your tuner if you want extra safety or max power. - But that said, I also reckon you need bigger injectors and a richer tune

Trent - is the norma worm drive robust enough to be re-used? I notice that the thread isnt cut all the way thru the band like on others. Who sells them? Pirtek/Enzed?

My cousin (B. E. Mech) works for a Euro car maker in China, and his experience is different. It may not always be easy to get quality out of some of the local suppliers, but it can be done, and is regularly. I like the idea of being able to bleed both sides of the calliper, which cant be done with the Sumis. I got the G4 kit after reading about tacker and Duncans experience with them, and am very happy. The pedal feel is sooo much better than the sumis. IIRC GTR brembo rotors are 327x30mm and G4 are 330x32mm or 356x32mm.

My understanding is that the rear should be 10mm lower; See Here; "Rake angle (or front to rear balance) plays a huge part in how the GT-R corners. Lowering overall by 1" as you say is OK, but you must make sure you keep the front (as measured from the centre of the wheel to the arch) is around 10mm higher than the rear. If you have a neutral (or worse rear elevated) rake the car will understeer like a bitch. " And IIRC SK used to quote a 10mm difference. Sort of makes sense as you'd expect the front wheel arches to be cut higher in the guard to give more clearance to the wheels that steer....

I put some height adjustable suspension in my car on the weekend. The old suspension was low - 330mm at the front. I'm now thinking 340 front, 330 rear. What are you guys running? The car sees a bit of track and already has plenty of adjustable arms/bushes to get the geometry right.

Make sure you get it cheaply. If he cant demonstrate that it runs and drives properly - assume it doesnt and pay a price that reflects. I'd be worried stuff like brake cylinders will have rusted up, so make sure you have extra cash to fix stuff. Cars dont really like sitting idle.

IIRC Hills Motorsport has a camera they stick through the sump plug hole to check bottom ends....maybe someone in Adelaide has the same. As above endoscope sounds like a good description...

Anyone know if any suspension shops are open tomorrow or want to loan me one? I can leave a deposit so you wont have be worried about getting ripped...Inner west is best but will travel if required.

Your tuner's a crackhead; - at cruise the throttle is limiting the air to the same amount that would have been flowing to achieve the same speed with the other turbos - you wont be on boost at cruise, so those bigger turbos wont be doing anything - the AFM would read any extra air in that came in and adjust fuel accordingly - the feedback provided by the o2 sensor is used to further adjust fuel and achive stoic - mixtures are stoic at cruise, not lean But i'm in IT so what would I know?

I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic. As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

IIRC the workshop manual shows what looks like a ball joint puller being used to remove them. Shouldnt need to remove the hub to do that as long as there is enough distance behind the hub to manoeuvre the studs (i havent done it, dunno) Re: rattle guns, AFAIK they're only a problem with alloy nuts which dont like the shock loading. Otherwise too much torque is too much torque regardless of the tool used to produce it. IIRC wheel nuts call for 100-110nm, which is WAY less than the 'tards who work at tyre shops use.

BlindE - these def. wont fit R32 GTR/GTS4 due to the wrong lower mount on the rears. BTW the bush at the bottom of the rears looks stuffed to me. Having the helper spring at the top might mean they're very low springs. Is the vendor guaranteeing that they're not leaking? Do you know what ride height you want and if these will give it to you? Do you know what spring rate you want and what these are? If not, you're not really in a position to make a good purchasing decision. I wouldnt by them just because they're cheap.

I'm using those for my radiator hoses - pirtek sell them for more like $15+ each. You have to do them up a lot tighter due to the width...not really a problem with the hex head tho.

You know those typical worm drive ones are single use only right? (not that anyone uses them once...) If you dont have a ridge on the pipe for the clamp to sit inside of, its going to suck. And yeah, the wider they are the tighter you have to do them up.

Lol. Actually that seat's empty, but I could be hearing voices....

The ECU has knock timing map and knock fuel map. When knock is detected the ECU uses those maps, which have more fuel and less timing. The normal and knock maps are also known as the premium and regular fuel maps. A knock sensor error indicates the sensor is broken and that is a different thing to sensing knock, which is a normal thing for the sensor. Its likely that the ECU takes the conservative approach and uses the knock maps if it cant get a reading from the sensor. Ie it assumes worst case as its preferable to risk inefficient operation than risk motor damage. So check all the wiring, and if there's no breaks or shorts its probably time to change the sensor(s). Or take it to a pro and get it properly diagnosed.

Get someone with CONSULT to take a look. Failing sensors are sticky to zero - ie they will jump off with a bit of encouragement (throttle). Dead sensors read zero.