MrStabby

I have new o2 sensors and better dumps to go in but is there anything else i should replace at the same time? For example, do the manifold to head studs deteriorate with 20 years of head cycling? It it worth heat wrapping the manifolds or dumps?

If you're not lowered, just get an alignment. If you are lowered, put the kit in first then get the alignment. For my low GTR i needed two kits, i guess they put one at each end of the upper control arm.

Wearing on only one side is odd - any thoughts on why its not both sides? Something damaged perhaps? What are your current alignment settings? Usually when you lower the car you need to add adjustability, and the more you lower it the more adjustability you require.

It probably explains the fuel economy problem. Factory o2 sensors are narrowband, which means they read either "lean" or "rich". When the ECU sees lean, it keeps richening up the mixture until it sees rich, then it keeps leaning out the mixture until is sees lean again, over and over. So what you should see in consult is the o2 sensor readout swinging backwards and forwards very quickly. I'm pretty sure R33/34 have zirconia sensors, and according to wikipedia "An output voltage of 0.2 V (200 mV) DC represents a lean mixture. <snip> A reading of 0.8 V (800 mV) DC represents a rich mixture". The R32 sensors are titania, and they read 0 when they're dead. Perhaps 0.04v on your zirconia means the same thing??? Do the sensor outputs bounce around when you blip the throttle? Maybe get someone with a wideband (ie any dyno) to check the mixture at a 60km cruise. If its not 14.7:1 then closed loop control is not working, and that will stuff your economy. I'm not an expert on any of this stuff - i could be wrong. Re: 2K rpm in 5th or 2.4k rpm in 4th. Probably not that much difference. You could run a back to back test looking at injector duty with CONSULT if you really want to find out. Lower injector duty = better economy (at cruise at least)

Factory o2 sensors are narrowband, so nothing you can get from the ECU will help. You need a wideband to read mixture. Try searching for wideband here and in Forced Induction.

Dr Turbinestone I presume?? FWIW the engine seems to be running fine....all the way from Goulburn to Sydney...

I'll either put the highflows i already have on, or sell them and get dash 9s... no more ceramics! But, if the motors stuffed do you do 26/30s (after the obligatory forklift joke :-)? Any more expensive than a plain 26?

So, first thing is check the cat to see if there are any turbine pieces in there, and if so then check the compressors to see if there's any damage. If the compressors are in tact then the motor should be ok - right?

Symptoms; - giving it stick at the track - suddenly no power (didnt hear a bang), notice its not generating any boost - notice one of the in-line air filters (well thats what they look like) on the boost contoller tubing has split apart, so replace it with a piece of tube, still no boost - check all visible turbo/plenum tubing - pull front bar to check intercooler piping and cant find anything blown off (only 13 psi after all) - if i let the throttle snap shut it stalls - a little bit of oil smoke if i take it to where it would usually boost.... but with vacuum, no smoke

o2 sensors; at cruise they should constantly flick back and forth, if they arent doing that, they're stuffed, or the ECU cant control the mixtures for some reason (dying fuel pump, air leak etc etc) Tuning lean; when the o2 sensors are operational (in closed loop control, ie at cruise or low throttle) the AFR will be 14.7. The only place you can tune lean is when the ECU is in open loop. Of course you can turn off closed loop with PFC, but that would be going backwards. Re; 5th gear - you're 6 speed so is 5th 1:1? What revs are you doing at 60 in 5th?

Correct - its not water/condensation. That will all boil off even before you cars fully up to temp. My guess is oil - what does the dipstick say? Dead cat = black smoke.

Wheel center to top of guard

Heasmans did mine; with 94kg driver; street car FR 478.5 FL 473.5 RR 353.0 LR 306.5 Front rear = 59.1 / 40.9 %

Linked from the Nistune site: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/niss...ning_basics.pdf

So i guess that's pretty much /thread, but is upgrading the rears a wank anyways? Risking told me that even with the standard rears and something like 360mm + chunky calliper at the front, he still has too much rear brake bias on his race car (or is that a special case)...

I have no first hand knowledge, but from what i've observed/read/heard; - Oz tuners tend to like 12:1, jap tuners more like 10.8:1 - To a limited degree you can trade off AFR and timing (jap tuners tend to use more timing as well as more fuel) - A tune trades off risk vs power. I am risk averse, so i'm running 11.5 (also to keep EGTs down with my old ceramic turbine wheels...). You should tell your tuner if you want extra safety or max power. - But that said, I also reckon you need bigger injectors and a richer tune

Trent - is the norma worm drive robust enough to be re-used? I notice that the thread isnt cut all the way thru the band like on others. Who sells them? Pirtek/Enzed?

My cousin (B. E. Mech) works for a Euro car maker in China, and his experience is different. It may not always be easy to get quality out of some of the local suppliers, but it can be done, and is regularly. I like the idea of being able to bleed both sides of the calliper, which cant be done with the Sumis. I got the G4 kit after reading about tacker and Duncans experience with them, and am very happy. The pedal feel is sooo much better than the sumis. IIRC GTR brembo rotors are 327x30mm and G4 are 330x32mm or 356x32mm.

My understanding is that the rear should be 10mm lower; See Here; "Rake angle (or front to rear balance) plays a huge part in how the GT-R corners. Lowering overall by 1" as you say is OK, but you must make sure you keep the front (as measured from the centre of the wheel to the arch) is around 10mm higher than the rear. If you have a neutral (or worse rear elevated) rake the car will understeer like a bitch. " And IIRC SK used to quote a 10mm difference. Sort of makes sense as you'd expect the front wheel arches to be cut higher in the guard to give more clearance to the wheels that steer....

I put some height adjustable suspension in my car on the weekend. The old suspension was low - 330mm at the front. I'm now thinking 340 front, 330 rear. What are you guys running? The car sees a bit of track and already has plenty of adjustable arms/bushes to get the geometry right.

Make sure you get it cheaply. If he cant demonstrate that it runs and drives properly - assume it doesnt and pay a price that reflects. I'd be worried stuff like brake cylinders will have rusted up, so make sure you have extra cash to fix stuff. Cars dont really like sitting idle.

IIRC Hills Motorsport has a camera they stick through the sump plug hole to check bottom ends....maybe someone in Adelaide has the same. As above endoscope sounds like a good description...

Anyone know if any suspension shops are open tomorrow or want to loan me one? I can leave a deposit so you wont have be worried about getting ripped...Inner west is best but will travel if required.