MrStabby

Bumpity.... Cam bearing? What areas see boost/vac? Could it be something to do with PCV?

I have a noise that sounds to me like a stuffed alternator or PS bearing, but its more mid or rear of motor. Its only noisy in vacuum or boost, which makes me think its a whistle caused by a manifold leak, but its very loud for that. I've checked the boost controller/FPR connections and it all looks ok. The noise is not affected by moving the tubes, so i guess that means its not a leak there. The plenum was off about 3 months ago but its been fine until now, and the top row of nuts are still tight. Any ideas?

Enzed guy made oneup for me. Its the one which has a rubber section permanently joined onto a metal tube section that is nicely wrapped around the crossmember making is an absolute effing bitch to get out. Anyways he cut the end off the metal tube and braised a fitting on the end, then made up the rubber hose with the matching fitting - all good. It was ages ago, i'm guessing about $160?? Enzed dude couldnt make up the air con hose tho....

No way with the stock ECU. With the powerfc you could put the injector and AFM settings in and it might run well enough on the base map to get you there.... or it may not.

FYI Mark from Hills Motorsport quoted me just under $2000 to supply and fit a low km R33 GTR box, filled with Redline. Not sure if it was series 3 or not.

rebuild (for me) was; 1. get pistons out (i did this using the brake pedal and gradually putting thinner and thinner shims in where the pads were, as a way of getting all pistons out evenly most of the way) then removed calipers pulled them out the last bit with pliers 2. Remove old seals from pistons 3. Clean up any scoring on the piston with 1200 wet n dry, thoroughly clean everything 4. Put new seals on, wetted with brake fluid 5. Re-install pistons with pistons and inside of caliper wetted with brake fluid 6. Install dust seals 7. Install caliper + bleed If you're handy its a piece of piss

+1 This is the most likely option. You might be able to get the piston moving, but you really should rebuild the caliper. Its pretty easy to do.Try racebrakes for a seal kit.

Good to hear. Get well soon Pauleh.

Wayne failz at teh interwebz? Doesn't he know we're waiting and email is quicker?

OMFG that's huge! Is there a bit more work on the tune to come? ie AFRs?

I'd guess electrical. Might be worth getting someone with CONSULT to check if there's any errors on the ECU. Probably less likely to be one of the coils/plugs as you would expect it to run rough if that was the prob, not die completely.

1. Nothing especially 2. I've not heard of them. Some guy here reckons that it can only be tuned in the US, and some other guy here reckons they're pre-set and not tuneable. 3. Could be lots of things - try searching 4. Run it on a dyno

On 32 GTR there's one in the boot, fairly close to the latch. You probably know this, but to test a relay just connect 12V the two pins that are shown as connected with a coil of wire (there's a diagram on the outside). Not sure if your car has it, but there is a fuel pump control module that i *think* performs earth switching and switches a soft earth at idle, so there's less voltage at the pump when full voltage is required. These modules tend to die. On my car its behind the wall trim drivers side rear seat.