MrStabby

Your tuner's a crackhead; - at cruise the throttle is limiting the air to the same amount that would have been flowing to achieve the same speed with the other turbos - you wont be on boost at cruise, so those bigger turbos wont be doing anything - the AFM would read any extra air in that came in and adjust fuel accordingly - the feedback provided by the o2 sensor is used to further adjust fuel and achive stoic - mixtures are stoic at cruise, not lean But i'm in IT so what would I know?

I have an organic which is rated to 240kw (which is what i'm running and its fine). Perfect for heavy traffic. As well as the throw out bearing that'll you'll get with the clutch kit, you also want to replace the spigot bearing which sits in then end of the crankshaft (and supports the gearbox's input shaft. You'd be crazy not to do it while the gearbox is out. Its a sintered bearing so you fill it with lubricant before you install it. Just search for spigot here to find more info.

IIRC the workshop manual shows what looks like a ball joint puller being used to remove them. Shouldnt need to remove the hub to do that as long as there is enough distance behind the hub to manoeuvre the studs (i havent done it, dunno) Re: rattle guns, AFAIK they're only a problem with alloy nuts which dont like the shock loading. Otherwise too much torque is too much torque regardless of the tool used to produce it. IIRC wheel nuts call for 100-110nm, which is WAY less than the 'tards who work at tyre shops use.

BlindE - these def. wont fit R32 GTR/GTS4 due to the wrong lower mount on the rears. BTW the bush at the bottom of the rears looks stuffed to me. Having the helper spring at the top might mean they're very low springs. Is the vendor guaranteeing that they're not leaking? Do you know what ride height you want and if these will give it to you? Do you know what spring rate you want and what these are? If not, you're not really in a position to make a good purchasing decision. I wouldnt by them just because they're cheap.

I'm using those for my radiator hoses - pirtek sell them for more like $15+ each. You have to do them up a lot tighter due to the width...not really a problem with the hex head tho.

You know those typical worm drive ones are single use only right? (not that anyone uses them once...) If you dont have a ridge on the pipe for the clamp to sit inside of, its going to suck. And yeah, the wider they are the tighter you have to do them up.

Lol. Actually that seat's empty, but I could be hearing voices....

The ECU has knock timing map and knock fuel map. When knock is detected the ECU uses those maps, which have more fuel and less timing. The normal and knock maps are also known as the premium and regular fuel maps. A knock sensor error indicates the sensor is broken and that is a different thing to sensing knock, which is a normal thing for the sensor. Its likely that the ECU takes the conservative approach and uses the knock maps if it cant get a reading from the sensor. Ie it assumes worst case as its preferable to risk inefficient operation than risk motor damage. So check all the wiring, and if there's no breaks or shorts its probably time to change the sensor(s). Or take it to a pro and get it properly diagnosed.

Get someone with CONSULT to take a look. Failing sensors are sticky to zero - ie they will jump off with a bit of encouragement (throttle). Dead sensors read zero.

Bumpity.... Cam bearing? What areas see boost/vac? Could it be something to do with PCV?

I have a noise that sounds to me like a stuffed alternator or PS bearing, but its more mid or rear of motor. Its only noisy in vacuum or boost, which makes me think its a whistle caused by a manifold leak, but its very loud for that. I've checked the boost controller/FPR connections and it all looks ok. The noise is not affected by moving the tubes, so i guess that means its not a leak there. The plenum was off about 3 months ago but its been fine until now, and the top row of nuts are still tight. Any ideas?

Enzed guy made oneup for me. Its the one which has a rubber section permanently joined onto a metal tube section that is nicely wrapped around the crossmember making is an absolute effing bitch to get out. Anyways he cut the end off the metal tube and braised a fitting on the end, then made up the rubber hose with the matching fitting - all good. It was ages ago, i'm guessing about $160?? Enzed dude couldnt make up the air con hose tho....

No way with the stock ECU. With the powerfc you could put the injector and AFM settings in and it might run well enough on the base map to get you there.... or it may not.