MrStabby

I take it you didn't use new hoses when the new motor went in?? I had a hose go back there. Pulled the plenum off and replaced these; 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00 BTW - i met you at the suspension tech day at Heasmans ages ago

Do you have a fan shroud? If not, you need one.

FWIW my stock turbos + EBC make 13 psi by 3300rpm, but has Nistune. Saying "full boost" without quoting the boost level is meaningless because the higher boost the longer it will take to get there... but yeah 10psi by 4500 is no good. I'd try a set of stock actuators first.

Slide was selling super streets (jap spec? but street jap spec) for $1589 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Te...St-t193401.html Price has probably changed now but its probably worth asking. Check out the other traders as well.

If we're still talking absolute then its 30 in/hg. google "kpa in/hg conversion" and hit "i'm feeling lucky"...(duh) If you're talking gauge, then 0 is 0 in any unit....

I'm in Newtown, i'm not an expert but would take a look if you like. PM me. Hahn Automotive are supposed to be ok (Botany Rd Alexandria). I got them to make up a replacement air con hose as the pirtek dude said he couldnt do it (i was replacing the leaking powersteer hose and thought i'd do the air con hose at the same time as it was blistered). Do you know about the powersteering bleeding proceedure where you rotate the wheel back and forth? Cant remember the exact details but i could dig it up (or maybe a search here will find it). BTW make sure its not something silly like the hose rubbing on a pulley. BTDT.

A Metal Cat with the 200 cell insides is not junk by any means. This one doesnt come with flanges tho, so add the cost of getting them welded on. Other vendors sell them with flanges ready to bolt up. They also claim to me emissions legal - http://www.metalcat.com.au/

What brand is the manifold? Cracking on the weld is common for non-name stuff. It looks very thin... So are you going to replace it or try to get it welded up and hope it hangs together? The mounting face looks thick so it probably true, but check it anyway. Re: the tuner going ahead and tuning something like that, yeah i have to agree with you guys now. He should have aborted the tune and called. Take it somewhere else next time.

The non-glycol surfectant based coolants are supposed to cool better, but dont have anti-freeze and can stain paint. I dont supposed you'll be too worried about the anti-freeze.......Redline Water Wetter is one, and I think Penrite SIN racing coolant is another

ok i'm a noob, but its a bit hard to put crap on the tuner at this stage, after all you cant polish a turd. The car appears to have serious problems, ie - "the manifold gasket is leaking badly" (is he right or do you dispute this?) - the boost response is shocking Perhaps the manifold is leaking so badly that the turbo cant spool properly, and the boost controller has nothing to work with? AFAIK you cant tune out a leaking manifold.... Here's what working boost control looks like;

I liked Metal Skin, but a do have a soft spot for Chargers...

http://www.jaftan.com.au/skyline/oil/ I heard that shockproof may make LSDs a bit shuddery, which i guess would be like running a slightly tighter LSD??? Is R33 LSD at the front? If so make sure you use a compatible oil. If you not sure about anything give Redline a call.

It goes: head -> exhaust manifold -> turbo -> dump pipe -> front pipe -> cat -> "cat back"

Re: the Teins; - do you know if the height adjusters move ok - what's the spring rate (let me know the dimensions and I can work it out if you dont know) And: are you in Sydney?

DBA4000 + track = FAIL. There's a thread about it, so read that before you consider buying them. The dumbass slot design appears to be the culprit.

Pretty sure #2 is AAC, but i thought it was connected closer to the firewall on the stock plenum... my memory is hopeless. Check out the AAC cleaning guide, pretty sure it has pics or an explanation of where it is. Sticky AAC can be intermittent and stuff up idle, dont know about rich running off boost tho. Might as well do it anyway as it just costs time not money.

I've got non-height adjustable Teins and they're too stiff. I was thinking of going to 8 front and 6 rear, but; - are the spring mounts a standard dimension, ie will i have to use Tein springs or will anything for a 32 GTR fit? - how hard is it to get the get the ride height correct? Obviously i'll have to get springs with a longer unloaded weight to compensate for the lower spring rate. - how hard is it so shim them up to get the corner weights right? (dont know if i'll bother, but just in case)

Can you clarify/rephrase this? You say there's no problem with GTSTs and GTRs but then you say the drain holes on the GTR are too small. Also, can you comment on T04GTRs evidence - "from a standing start (fast take off but not a launch) the oil pressure was surging the whole way thru first gear and partly in second..... and this was a 220-240rwkw gtr. "? Cheers

Have you changed your fuel filter? Multimeter will tell you what voltage you're seeing at the pump.

High volume oil pump could be the problem. The stock engine already has problems draining oil from the top end, and the high volume pump just shoves more up there and drains the sump more quickly than the stocker.... ouchy

Sound normal to me too IF you're accelerating. If your cruising then i would expect torque to be 0. That sounds strange. As elk says, if the g sensors are registering then some torque should go to the front. Unless of course you're cornering as well, where the system puts less drive to the fronts to prevent understeer. The other thing that will push torque to front is wheels slipping (or wheels that appear to be slipping to the system, ie when the circumference of the wheels is different front to back, or if your diffs have different ratios....)

Me either (for squealing). AFAIK greasing bolts is done to ensure that bolt tension is the most accurate when combined with a torque wrench, because it creates a predictable level of friction between the thread mating surfaces. You use a lower torque setting for greased vs dry but end up with the same level of bolt tension. When i installed my brake upgrade kit UAS told me to use the thread lube stuff. For a lot of stuff its not worth worrying about, but for flywheel bolts (and i guess calliper bolts) etc its important. The research i did suggested that the squealing is caused by vibration between the calliper piston and pad. FWIW, my old setup with the stock callipers was; pad backing plate -> shim -> shim grease -> shim -> red goo -> calliper piston, and I had no noise at all. I never worried that much about special bedding in procedures (but that doesnt mean you shouldnt).

Oh man that's classic. This has to go in the self-pwnage thread.