MrStabby

Nah exhausts on turbo cars have a big f*ckoff restriction in them already - the turbo's turbine. You want everything beyond to the turbo to be the lowest back pressure possible so the turbo's turbine sees the maximum pressure difference across its blades that it can.

Pretty sure Adriano (IIRC he's a mech eng as well) was talking about temps out of the compressor, not to/from the turbine. Ie air temps not exhaust temps. And there's no hoses for exhaust stuff.... If he says 300 degrees air temp then i'm surprised but I believe it. Mind you the stock piping is rubber so.... WTF? OR maybe i'm completely misunderstanding what's being said here Re: boost spikes, i'd just build a system that doesn't spike appreciably so you dont have to worry about designing the hoses to handle it. Compressors add a lot of heat as they increase pressure, and i'd guess that's where most of it comes from - not through the turbo from the exhaust. A bit like air con where you have compressor -> heat exchanger, in a turbo (or supercharged) car you have compressor -> intercooler as the heat added from the compressor needs to be removed.

Pretty much the same thing (but i havent done it myself yet so not 100% sure). The AAC is just under the plenum, held on by 4 small bolts and not too hard to get to IIRC. Here's a plenum off pic showing where it mounts - its the vertical face just to the left of the braided hoses - sorry dont have a pic of the AAC itself.

Since you're a mech eng why not just do the calcs and see how much pressure loss is caused by the 180 bend? My guess is that it wouldnt be much, and may even be negligible compared to the total pressure loss along the entire fluid path. Interesting point about intercooler size tho - i guess depth would be more useful than having more height or width that's shrouded by the bar. Also make sure there's no gaps around the intercooler that will provide an easier path for the air to flow around instead of going thru.

Maybe the AAC valve needs a clean. It can get choked up with black dust and affect the idle. EDIT: Here a howto for RB25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

Man up and get the bastard plenum off. You have to do it to fix the leak. Get some beer bait for your mates - if you have to do it yourself you'll probably want to torch the whole thing... i know i did. I took mine off to replace these hoses (you might as well do everything while you there). R32 GTR Coolant pipes on Drivers side and rear of motor; 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00 (these go to the heater)

<rant>The fact that pre-dyno checks are not industry standard practice further reinforces my view that the vast majority of mechanic shops are run by strategically shaved monkeys, who've never heard of quality control or risk avoidance....</rant> Of course there are exceptions!

If you're going in there replace ALL the hoses, even if it is the welsh plug. At 15 years old they're due for retirement, so get them done before they die.

I rebuilt my sumitomos and yeah its easy. I didnt bother splitting the caliper as there no leaks, and its not as if those o rings are going to wear at all like the piston seals. I also used 1200 paper to polish out some minor scoring on the pistons.

The weight only comes into the power calculation, so the acceleration time should be reasonably accurate as long as the hardware and software are up to it. If you run at the track use the iPhone as well to compare and post up results.

Awesome, im getting one to go with my polariser.

Poor choice of word I guess http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Interoperate Duncan has used them and they worked, but since they produce a different type of signal i'll stick with titanias and adapters. Up to you.

Do a search - there are a couple of good threads on how to sort this out. (Its an installation problem)

EDIT: post made irrelevant by Duncans post... But from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O2_sensor - Zirconias produce a voltage, and Titanias change their resistance, so the observation that they interoperate is unusual....

More than happy with my GT tune. I got exactly what i wanted and Anthony is a great guy to deal with. I had a few issues with my car and Anthony was gracious through it all.

I bought xforce dumps and they came with the adapters, so you could try an xforce stockist. BUT with these adapters the o2 sensor is well back from the exhaust flow as it holds the sensor quite far out. I'm concerned this will affect its operation...

Happy bday uleh. BTW i owe you some spanner time - lemme know if you want help with the gbox (in sydney right....)

AFM reads air mass so removing the screens will have no effect on the accuracy of the reading. The screens are just one of the many restrictions along the air path. I have no idea if removing them would make a measurable difference in power.

What is the injector duty and mixtures near 300? Stock fuel pressure? If its running on the ragged edge then the OP could be well advised not to risk his shiny new motor. Ie stick to a safe 280, or add the goodies and run 320/330. BTW Chicken at 200bar sounds delicious.

Rear swaybar for sure. Cheap and easy to fit.

IIRC about 280awkw is the limit (someone will correct me). You can tune past the AFMs, and if you wanted to get a bit more out of the standard injectors you could raise the fuel pressure with an aftermarket regulator. Since you've spent the dough on the forged motor i wouldnt bother with the regulator hack and just go for a new set of injectors. To get changed AFMs and injectors to work you will need a tune. You might be able to get a PFC to limp to the shop if you select the new kit in the menus.

For a baseline to work within ask the tyre vendor, or hopefully just check their website. They publish what rim sizes are suitable for which tyre. Even if the sizes are identical, different tyre models can sometimes accept slightly different rim widths.