MrStabby

Pretty sure #2 is AAC, but i thought it was connected closer to the firewall on the stock plenum... my memory is hopeless. Check out the AAC cleaning guide, pretty sure it has pics or an explanation of where it is. Sticky AAC can be intermittent and stuff up idle, dont know about rich running off boost tho. Might as well do it anyway as it just costs time not money.

I've got non-height adjustable Teins and they're too stiff. I was thinking of going to 8 front and 6 rear, but; - are the spring mounts a standard dimension, ie will i have to use Tein springs or will anything for a 32 GTR fit? - how hard is it to get the get the ride height correct? Obviously i'll have to get springs with a longer unloaded weight to compensate for the lower spring rate. - how hard is it so shim them up to get the corner weights right? (dont know if i'll bother, but just in case)

Can you clarify/rephrase this? You say there's no problem with GTSTs and GTRs but then you say the drain holes on the GTR are too small. Also, can you comment on T04GTRs evidence - "from a standing start (fast take off but not a launch) the oil pressure was surging the whole way thru first gear and partly in second..... and this was a 220-240rwkw gtr. "? Cheers

Have you changed your fuel filter? Multimeter will tell you what voltage you're seeing at the pump.

High volume oil pump could be the problem. The stock engine already has problems draining oil from the top end, and the high volume pump just shoves more up there and drains the sump more quickly than the stocker.... ouchy

Sound normal to me too IF you're accelerating. If your cruising then i would expect torque to be 0. That sounds strange. As elk says, if the g sensors are registering then some torque should go to the front. Unless of course you're cornering as well, where the system puts less drive to the fronts to prevent understeer. The other thing that will push torque to front is wheels slipping (or wheels that appear to be slipping to the system, ie when the circumference of the wheels is different front to back, or if your diffs have different ratios....)

Me either (for squealing). AFAIK greasing bolts is done to ensure that bolt tension is the most accurate when combined with a torque wrench, because it creates a predictable level of friction between the thread mating surfaces. You use a lower torque setting for greased vs dry but end up with the same level of bolt tension. When i installed my brake upgrade kit UAS told me to use the thread lube stuff. For a lot of stuff its not worth worrying about, but for flywheel bolts (and i guess calliper bolts) etc its important. The research i did suggested that the squealing is caused by vibration between the calliper piston and pad. FWIW, my old setup with the stock callipers was; pad backing plate -> shim -> shim grease -> shim -> red goo -> calliper piston, and I had no noise at all. I never worried that much about special bedding in procedures (but that doesnt mean you shouldnt).

Oh man that's classic. This has to go in the self-pwnage thread.

Nah exhausts on turbo cars have a big f*ckoff restriction in them already - the turbo's turbine. You want everything beyond to the turbo to be the lowest back pressure possible so the turbo's turbine sees the maximum pressure difference across its blades that it can.

Pretty sure Adriano (IIRC he's a mech eng as well) was talking about temps out of the compressor, not to/from the turbine. Ie air temps not exhaust temps. And there's no hoses for exhaust stuff.... If he says 300 degrees air temp then i'm surprised but I believe it. Mind you the stock piping is rubber so.... WTF? OR maybe i'm completely misunderstanding what's being said here Re: boost spikes, i'd just build a system that doesn't spike appreciably so you dont have to worry about designing the hoses to handle it. Compressors add a lot of heat as they increase pressure, and i'd guess that's where most of it comes from - not through the turbo from the exhaust. A bit like air con where you have compressor -> heat exchanger, in a turbo (or supercharged) car you have compressor -> intercooler as the heat added from the compressor needs to be removed.

Pretty much the same thing (but i havent done it myself yet so not 100% sure). The AAC is just under the plenum, held on by 4 small bolts and not too hard to get to IIRC. Here's a plenum off pic showing where it mounts - its the vertical face just to the left of the braided hoses - sorry dont have a pic of the AAC itself.

Since you're a mech eng why not just do the calcs and see how much pressure loss is caused by the 180 bend? My guess is that it wouldnt be much, and may even be negligible compared to the total pressure loss along the entire fluid path. Interesting point about intercooler size tho - i guess depth would be more useful than having more height or width that's shrouded by the bar. Also make sure there's no gaps around the intercooler that will provide an easier path for the air to flow around instead of going thru.

Maybe the AAC valve needs a clean. It can get choked up with black dust and affect the idle. EDIT: Here a howto for RB25 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

Man up and get the bastard plenum off. You have to do it to fix the leak. Get some beer bait for your mates - if you have to do it yourself you'll probably want to torch the whole thing... i know i did. I took mine off to replace these hoses (you might as well do everything while you there). R32 GTR Coolant pipes on Drivers side and rear of motor; 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00 (these go to the heater)

<rant>The fact that pre-dyno checks are not industry standard practice further reinforces my view that the vast majority of mechanic shops are run by strategically shaved monkeys, who've never heard of quality control or risk avoidance....</rant> Of course there are exceptions!

If you're going in there replace ALL the hoses, even if it is the welsh plug. At 15 years old they're due for retirement, so get them done before they die.

I rebuilt my sumitomos and yeah its easy. I didnt bother splitting the caliper as there no leaks, and its not as if those o rings are going to wear at all like the piston seals. I also used 1200 paper to polish out some minor scoring on the pistons.

The weight only comes into the power calculation, so the acceleration time should be reasonably accurate as long as the hardware and software are up to it. If you run at the track use the iPhone as well to compare and post up results.

Awesome, im getting one to go with my polariser.

Poor choice of word I guess http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Interoperate Duncan has used them and they worked, but since they produce a different type of signal i'll stick with titanias and adapters. Up to you.

Do a search - there are a couple of good threads on how to sort this out. (Its an installation problem)

EDIT: post made irrelevant by Duncans post... But from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O2_sensor - Zirconias produce a voltage, and Titanias change their resistance, so the observation that they interoperate is unusual....