MrStabby

I use Tunehouse for the GTR and Stag. Happy with their work and recommend them.

Cactus as in blocked? You could try having it cleaned (repaired?) by a pro. They should be able to tell you how well it comes up after.

Interesting that 40% is smooth and the other 60% is rough. Are there a bunch of parallel lines on the smooth bit?

Yes also that's cruise when the engine is up to temperature, and OPs problem is when the engine is cold.

Ghetto brackets FTW. Top tank is 50mm, but rad is pulled up against the front. No touching.

You're right to be skeptical about what mechanics say, and agree with kiwi and shoota

That would probably be better described as "heat exchanger to block gasket" assuming the filter mount is a coolant to oil heat exchanger similar to RBs.

Craved is just painting/powdercoating right? Or will he so the rebuild too? He did a great job on my rims... I wouldnt bother with a rebuild unless they're currently leaking.

Wiring diag - maybe the one you already have

You could try the SAU traders to see if any of them sell them, or just google. You dont need to change anything else when you get one. Lightweight pulleys? A wank unless you're trying to get the last 10 10ths in a race situation Lightweight harmonic balancer? Not sure if that's even a thing. The weight along with the stiffness of the rubber will be tuned to dampen the vibrations most effectively, so it if is a thing there may be the significant downside of not protecting your motor as well. Slow and heavy? I fear you might expect something from the lightened flywheel it cannot deliver. Also, are you aware of, and willing to accept, the downside of a lighter flywheel? I went for a lightened (5.5kg) one when i got rid of the Giken twin plate monster. If I had a stock flywheel i would have just used that (10kgs FWIW). Suggest you spend your money elsewhere, as it will probably be a better investment. If you really must have a lightened flywheel get it next time the clutch gets replaced.

I'll take the AFMs - where are you?

Looks like GTR bar with the nismo vents (the holes/ducts either side of where the number plate goes) so you'll need the corresponding holes in the reo so they can slide inside (ooh-eer!). The standard GTR reo doesnt have any holes so you have to cut them in. Dunno if the gtst reo is the same as the gtr one...

Heating up when stationary point to the fan. Is the fan clutch tired? Could be you had two problems and you've only fixed one.

Check the temperature of the top and bottom hoses. If the top is hot and the bottom is not then the radiator needs a clean, which will probably cost ~$150.

Measure the resistance of the magnetic clutch. Should be around 3.5 ohms. If it's much less then there's a short.

Actually, a single topic with a first post of just links would work well enough and be zero setup cost. Downside would be the reliance on a single person, assuming you cant delegate write access to a group. The style of your "list of members tutorials" thread is pretty much what I was thinking, so I guess a new thread should exclude anything DIY since that's done. Let me know if i should kick something off in the Tutorials / DIY / FAQ section to start it, and you could sticky it if you think it shows promise.

Yeah i reckon give read/write to everyone or nearly everyone so the burden is spread.

A directory of the best info on the site would be useful, and this could be built on a wiki maintained by members. eg i found this list of link useful when i owned a 928; http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm

Agree with a lot of the above, eg; Mandatory tagging (or maybe a drop down list to select a category like the forum categories, eg Forced Induction/Naturally Aspirated/Suspension, braking, tyres etc). I'm ok with traders in the other sections, but with a weekly limit on the number of new threads so it doesnt get too spammy. A few more admins to keep things clean and useful (eg no useless subjects like "stuff to sell"). Agree that price should be mandatory.

Obviously you just topped it up, but how old is the fluid? If unknown or old, replace it all with a full synth ATF as it will handle higher temp better.

Nice write up. Agree that getting the housing on cleanly is a bitch. By the look of your photos i'd say the RB26 is even worse. The idea of using headless bolts as locators is a good one. If I ever have to do this again i might just replace the bolts with studs.

Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, ~$16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, ~$10perL) If the ATF stinks then its in very bad condition. Some suggest when its like that its dangerous to change it all at once. So you could dump whatevers in the sump (on the M35 this is about 4 of the 10 liters) then drive around for a few thousand kms then that over a few more times. EDIT: Transmax Z is usually more expensive and has less Nissan certs.