MrStabby

This answer can be found via search. Shockproof should never be used in the Getrag 6 speeds, either should any other GL-4 75W-90 or similar style oil. The Getrag uses ATF believe it or not. I think the synthetic ATFs are ok (Transmax Z) just run a search and you'll find a definitive answer.

For the front page; Mobil 1 and Delvac 1 are group 4 base with about 20% group 5 according to DougH (this guy knows his stuff) Ref: http://www.renntech.org/forums/lofiversion...php/t18023.html I've also updated my oil spec page - finally found some Motul stats. Looks like Redline is better high temp shear, but also a bit thicker http://www.jaftan.com.au/skyline/engine/oilspecs.html

Consult reports my ones at 0.9v and 1.1v - If you can log the output then that should tell you. IIRC its supposed to run in a limp home mode if one of the AFMs is down (factory ECU, dunno about FC)

There's no info on the -7s in my post. Read it again carefully, and take a look at the link.

With that tread pattern i wouldnt have thought they would tramline, but you didnt say how wide they are. A bit more caster might help - what did you get your alignment set to?

That probably means you've got the wrong turbo. There's no sense asking an internet forum what reground cams you need if you want to make 1000hp. For the $30K plus you'll pay for the motor the builder will specify the cam.

From: http://www.gcg.com.au/turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=11 "Direct replacement upgrade turbocharger for GT2556R (702987-7) on Nissan RB26DETT used in Skyline R34 GT-R"

Did you at least tell the FC that you have the Z32 and 740s? Read: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm

Incomplete combustion = too rich (the black smoke is the incompletely burnt fuel, its coming out as carbon instead of co2), or missfire (say if you had a dodgy spark plug or coil, but you'd notice that). Dirt - is 11.5 too rich for a new motor?

Doesnt overfuelling = extra rich tune?? But then you're wideband said 11.5 to 12 - so that doesnt add up. Going back to your original post, you had lifter noise at 2500-3000 - was that straight after you got the motor, ie before the oil had a chance to become contaminated? If so, i guess that's a symptom of oil pressure issues.

I think knowing how easy it is to loose grip is the best way to give a driver an attitude adjustment. Until you loose grip you never learn how little grip you actually have. What we call "advanced" training should be the mandatory minimum requirement for being licensed to operate an often lethal piece of equipment. "driver training sadly increases the risk a driver takes because they think they are better than they once were". IMO this is wrong because i think the training shows the driver how limited the car/driver combination is, and with that knowledge they can make better decisions. They may well think (and actually be) better drivers after the training, but they will also know much more about what a car is capable of.

I dont think the fan comes unless the aircon is on AND the refrigerant gas has reached a certain temperature. So, on a hot day it should come on if the car is still for long enough, as the motor's fan wont pull enough air through the aircon heat exchanger.

I got HKS and agree that its well worth the extra money to go with a Jap kit over the generic / chinese stuff. Relatively easy fit, no leaks and peace of mind. If you search you will find many instances of problems with the chinese kits. The HKS kit cost $800 landed from nengun, but that was before the exchange rate tanked. BTW if you have the time take the plenum off and do ALL the coolant pipes at the same time. Its a bitch of a job, but its better than relying on old stuff. If one line has gone the rest may well be soon to follow. Dunno if its worth going braided for coolant lines - silicon should outlast the car.

dont worry - i got it - whitepages.com.au. Thanks again. Disc Doctor - Mobile Disc Brake Machining 0415 244 024 Mobile Service Seven Hills NSW 2147

Yes please. Cheers

i have runout that i just cant get rid of - replaced the rotor, and the wheel hub/bearing/flange unit. I'm thinking on car machining is the last option.

I thought there was another rule that for the rim that you can only go 25mm wider and 25mm more in diameter. So if your car came with 16x8, then you can go as far as 17x9 (unless you get it engineered of course).

I need to get the rear rotors done on car on my 32 GTR. Anyone know where i can get this done?

220kw @ 14psi seems pretty normal to me, not that i know anything..... Maybe Justin doesnt see a lot of GTRs. Get a metalcat / magic cat / catco metal cat on that sukka.

A cheaper option would be NISTune ($400, + say $50 to solder it in) + Dyno tune ($600) + (optionally) Consult cable ($100). http://www.nistune.com/ Check the workshop link to fine who can tune it in your area.

When i looked at getting my 32 compressor rebuilt a few ppl said there's no rebuild kits left for them. Maybe that same has now happened for 33s? A rebuild should come with a warrantee.

The plms one works well, as they all should. NISTune suggest the plms one and there seems to be come common ground between the organisations.

You mean pineapples ;-) I assume the 250 includes installation... not hard to find at all. I got them in neoprene as i didnt want the NVH of solid mounts. If you're hicas is stuffed like bubbas the pineapples wont make any difference.

BOVs allow the turbo to spin more freely after the throttle snaps shut during a gear change, so when you snap the throttle open again for next gear you will be on boost quicker. If you block it off the pressure build up between the shut throttle and the compressor will slow the turbo down considerably. So, blocking off BOVs is for posers. If you don't have homosexual tendencies, and prefer to go fast, leave it as it is.