MrStabby

i have runout that i just cant get rid of - replaced the rotor, and the wheel hub/bearing/flange unit. I'm thinking on car machining is the last option.

I thought there was another rule that for the rim that you can only go 25mm wider and 25mm more in diameter. So if your car came with 16x8, then you can go as far as 17x9 (unless you get it engineered of course).

I need to get the rear rotors done on car on my 32 GTR. Anyone know where i can get this done?

220kw @ 14psi seems pretty normal to me, not that i know anything..... Maybe Justin doesnt see a lot of GTRs. Get a metalcat / magic cat / catco metal cat on that sukka.

A cheaper option would be NISTune ($400, + say $50 to solder it in) + Dyno tune ($600) + (optionally) Consult cable ($100). http://www.nistune.com/ Check the workshop link to fine who can tune it in your area.

When i looked at getting my 32 compressor rebuilt a few ppl said there's no rebuild kits left for them. Maybe that same has now happened for 33s? A rebuild should come with a warrantee.

The plms one works well, as they all should. NISTune suggest the plms one and there seems to be come common ground between the organisations.

You mean pineapples ;-) I assume the 250 includes installation... not hard to find at all. I got them in neoprene as i didnt want the NVH of solid mounts. If you're hicas is stuffed like bubbas the pineapples wont make any difference.

BOVs allow the turbo to spin more freely after the throttle snaps shut during a gear change, so when you snap the throttle open again for next gear you will be on boost quicker. If you block it off the pressure build up between the shut throttle and the compressor will slow the turbo down considerably. So, blocking off BOVs is for posers. If you don't have homosexual tendencies, and prefer to go fast, leave it as it is.

Pretty sure the gear is for noise suppression for the BOVs (look at where the air channel runs to the drivers side and follow it along). They're still quiet enough with it removed. I run the stock airbox and have removed it to help with airflow.

IF the sticky ring theory is right (i've got no idea) then try using Delvac-1 at your next oil change. Its a mixed fleet oil (can be used in diesel as well) fully synthetic, with excellent cleaning properties. I use it as my regular oil.

They've been talked about a number of times - you should find something by searching.

Ok, so it sounds like i need to take the knuckle off the car completely so i can separate the knuckle from the hub assembly. I dont have a vice to that's going to be interesting...might have to take that to a shop as u suggest. Either way it sounds like there's no shortcuts. thanks

Ok this is officially pissing me off. I'm now at the stage where i want to separate the flange from the axle housing so i need to remove the 4 bolts and "brake anchor pin". Of course there's no room at all to get any sockets or spanners in there. Do i have to undo all the suspension arms and tie rod and remove axle housing first or is there some trick to removing the flange in situ?

(assuming we're talking rears here) I broke a couple of quality 1/2 in drive breaker bars trying to get that 36mm nut off. Workshop with 3/4 drive rattle gun was required... so not completely DIYish for me. I have two second hand knuckles now, but i might need both. PM if you get stuck, maybe i wont need the second. DECIM8 bought a new one from Nissan (needed to come from Japan). PM him if u want a new one. Here's my thread clicky

Thanks guys - its soaking in WD40 now. I'll try it again tomorrow with the $50 sidchrome 450mm breaker. Hopefully it will live. Decim8 - Did you get yours off yet?

If its one or two pads out of the four at the rear its probably just the pistons getting stuck in the calipers and holding the pad on the rotor. Get a rebuild kit from race brakes and pull them apart, clean them up and assemble with the new seals in the kit. Might as well do both calipers while you're at it. When i did mine i gently cleaned up any scoring on the pistons with 1200 grade wet and dry sandpaper.

You usually run these with less pressure than normal road tyres. Maybe start at 35, see what's that's like then try 32 or 30 to compare.

I'm trying to get the 36mm nut off. So far, cheater bar + breaker bar = broken breaker bar (half inch drive). Is the passenger side one reverse threaded? Should i be able to do this with half inch drive? Any other tips or do i just take it do a shop?

They're the subframe mounting bushes. The other stuff being talked about are sometimes called "pineapples" or "subframe alignment kits". If you use the metal ones i'm fairly sure it just locks the subframe to the chassis so the mounting bushes wont be able to flex at all. So - if your thinking about using the metal ones dont bother changing your mounting bushes if they're shagged, because there's no point. Personally i wouldnt use the metal ones on a street car but YMMV. Installing subframe mounting bushes is difficult (or expensive) if you get someone else to do it. The neoprene pineapples work with the bushes, and stiffen them up. They also allow you to change the tilt of the axle to change the rear traction characteristics (ie more grip for drag, no change, or less grip for drift. The whitelines' do at least. You use 4 out of the 6 then send depending on what setup you want). They're much easier to install than subframe bushes.

You're right, i bollocks it up. Ignore previous post.

I opened FAST and it looks like R32 GTR and R34 GTT have the same part number, so you should be ok

IIRC its 180 or maybe 200. I use them as everyday street tyre because i dont have anywhere to store a second set of rims. The only problem i have is the tramlining, but i havent asked for a re-alignment to see if that can be dialled out. I either dont care or havent noticed any noise or comfort problems. My suspension is shockingly rough...