MrStabby

Pretty sure the gear is for noise suppression for the BOVs (look at where the air channel runs to the drivers side and follow it along). They're still quiet enough with it removed. I run the stock airbox and have removed it to help with airflow.

IF the sticky ring theory is right (i've got no idea) then try using Delvac-1 at your next oil change. Its a mixed fleet oil (can be used in diesel as well) fully synthetic, with excellent cleaning properties. I use it as my regular oil.

They've been talked about a number of times - you should find something by searching.

Ok, so it sounds like i need to take the knuckle off the car completely so i can separate the knuckle from the hub assembly. I dont have a vice to that's going to be interesting...might have to take that to a shop as u suggest. Either way it sounds like there's no shortcuts. thanks

Ok this is officially pissing me off. I'm now at the stage where i want to separate the flange from the axle housing so i need to remove the 4 bolts and "brake anchor pin". Of course there's no room at all to get any sockets or spanners in there. Do i have to undo all the suspension arms and tie rod and remove axle housing first or is there some trick to removing the flange in situ?

(assuming we're talking rears here) I broke a couple of quality 1/2 in drive breaker bars trying to get that 36mm nut off. Workshop with 3/4 drive rattle gun was required... so not completely DIYish for me. I have two second hand knuckles now, but i might need both. PM if you get stuck, maybe i wont need the second. DECIM8 bought a new one from Nissan (needed to come from Japan). PM him if u want a new one. Here's my thread clicky

Thanks guys - its soaking in WD40 now. I'll try it again tomorrow with the $50 sidchrome 450mm breaker. Hopefully it will live. Decim8 - Did you get yours off yet?

If its one or two pads out of the four at the rear its probably just the pistons getting stuck in the calipers and holding the pad on the rotor. Get a rebuild kit from race brakes and pull them apart, clean them up and assemble with the new seals in the kit. Might as well do both calipers while you're at it. When i did mine i gently cleaned up any scoring on the pistons with 1200 grade wet and dry sandpaper.

You usually run these with less pressure than normal road tyres. Maybe start at 35, see what's that's like then try 32 or 30 to compare.

I'm trying to get the 36mm nut off. So far, cheater bar + breaker bar = broken breaker bar (half inch drive). Is the passenger side one reverse threaded? Should i be able to do this with half inch drive? Any other tips or do i just take it do a shop?

They're the subframe mounting bushes. The other stuff being talked about are sometimes called "pineapples" or "subframe alignment kits". If you use the metal ones i'm fairly sure it just locks the subframe to the chassis so the mounting bushes wont be able to flex at all. So - if your thinking about using the metal ones dont bother changing your mounting bushes if they're shagged, because there's no point. Personally i wouldnt use the metal ones on a street car but YMMV. Installing subframe mounting bushes is difficult (or expensive) if you get someone else to do it. The neoprene pineapples work with the bushes, and stiffen them up. They also allow you to change the tilt of the axle to change the rear traction characteristics (ie more grip for drag, no change, or less grip for drift. The whitelines' do at least. You use 4 out of the 6 then send depending on what setup you want). They're much easier to install than subframe bushes.

You're right, i bollocks it up. Ignore previous post.

I opened FAST and it looks like R32 GTR and R34 GTT have the same part number, so you should be ok

IIRC its 180 or maybe 200. I use them as everyday street tyre because i dont have anywhere to store a second set of rims. The only problem i have is the tramlining, but i havent asked for a re-alignment to see if that can be dialled out. I either dont care or havent noticed any noise or comfort problems. My suspension is shockingly rough...

$308 for 255 17s. Happy with them.

Tune is also important as it effect exhaust temperature. So with old ceramic turbos its probably best to run a little richer that you otherwise might, to put less heat stress on the turbos. The factory rebuild period for the turbos is 100,000kms, and i'm sure that avoiding this maintenance is part of the problem with them letting go. FWIW i'm running 13.5psi at 270kw, but while my midrange mixtures are 11.8, my high ends 12.2, so i'll get that brought down to 11.8 (and loose a little power) before i give the car any serious right foot encouragement.

Narrowbands are basically a binary device. They see mixtures as simply lean or rich - there' no useable "its correct" value. The ECU then goes through a constant cycle of lean up the mixture until the narrowband says 'lean' then richening it up until the narrowband says 'rich' over and over again. You can see this if you watch the narrowbands output in via consult.

Pretty sure you cant just use an adapter plug, as the protocol on the wire will be different. Also, you cant use wideband for closed loop with the factory computer so you wont be able to read it from there anyway....

The sump and oil cooler run the same oil - not sure why you've made a distinction between them. We're talking about RB26 here, maybe RB25 is more sensitive to high oil level. Might be worth finding a good level on the dipstick (eg the bottom of the top 'bump') if 1 litre is too much.

+1. But with high cornering/braking forces, i'd also add high revs. For 250-280kw you should be fine if the tune is conservative.

That's right. If you don't do the other oil control mods an aftermarket pump will make the problem worse. Aftermarket pumps flow more and therefore can empty the sump more quickly. +1 for overfill of 1 litre, of a good fully synthetic oil at the correct operating temperature (so you'll probably need a cooler). If you're going to aftermarket pump, crank collar, and the oil control mods you might as well just do a full rebuild.

Its only the lead in pre-unleaded petrol that has any lubricating qualities. LPG is actually better for your motor. Petrol vapor contaminates the oil on the cylinder walls in petrol engines, marginally reducing its quality and requiring you to change it more often to offset the effect. Obviously no such effect with LPG. Unleaded was introduced in 1986, so all engines from that point on have hardened valve seats to cope with unleaded, and therefore will also cope with LPG. Since other countries were running unleaded before Australia some earlier engines also have hardened seats. The interesting thing with this conversion is that there is not the typical loss of power associated with an LPG conversion.

Prefer good bearing but i will replace if required.