MrStabby

+1 for mounting issue. I paid an extra $200 for sard instead of bosch for my GTR, so i could retain the nicely engineered mount. I still cant hear the pump. I think gtst pumps are mounted differently tho. Make sure all attaching parts are cushioned. Edit: if priming's loud then the pickup is a problem. Do you notice the noise more when the tank is low?

Try coventry fasteners; http://www.covfast.com.au/coventry/divisio...ntry_fasteners/

It looks like plenty of places have the R33/34 kit (and a couple of places try to sell the same kit as an R32/33/34 kit = FAIL). Anyone know where i can get the 32 specific kit?

Do a search - there's been a couple of good threads on this.

42. Osman WOE784 Nissan Skyline GTR Straight 6 No Turbo 141.4 kW 189.6 HP The "No" refers to no NOS, the "turbo" means it is running a turbo - notice some others have N/A in this field.

+1 - the right way is to get the right rims Changing the spring stiffness just means it wont hit as often, ie you have to hit a bigger pothole/dip whatever to make it touch. Its not a fix. Its illegal, with good reason, to have the rim/tyre touch any part of the car, other than the mounting of course. You might be able to do something with spacers but i don't know if they're legal.

Re: problems with ethanol and fuel lines, the story i heard is that it cleans up your fuel system so its worth doing an extra filter change after you've run it for a while. Re: economy, isnt stochiometric for E85 close to 10? so you'd expect economy to be about 270km from a tank instead of 400 if you're using closed loop control.

Re: the increase in low down power, are you talking about how the car feels when you drive it, or the graph shape? Why did you change turbos?

Maybe i'm paranoid, but check that any pillow ball/rose joint stuff is street legal. My guess is that without the bush the ability to absorb shock loading is significantly reduced. You can get adjustable replacement bushes (but there's not much adjustment). Whiteline etc

I have the same problem.. as yet unresolved. Not bad on the street but its a jackhammer on the track. Make sure the mating surfaces between the rotor and the hub are completely clean - no rust or other gunk at all. Even a tiny spec here will cause shudder. I cant see any point in you changing the rotors again - BTDT and it didnt help me.

IIRC the stock injectors peak out at about 280kw with a safe tune... and maybe AFMs and fuel pump at about the same level??

http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/au/en/sm/WF...315-447371.html (NC6220) Unfortunately its discontinued as well. The doco has the serial port labeled "vga" port, but you can see from the pin count its not.

I had to take the steering arm off mine, and use a long (maybe 500mm) breaker bar. If you just pop the tie rod end out then there will be no difference to the alignment when it goes back in.

12kgs - WTF? I thought stock was 10kgs. I got a 5.5kg one (This one IIRC), but there were also 4.5kg ones.

But are they for sale? I've got first dibs 'cause its my thread...back off bitches Shouldnt be a problem, just dont use anything too thick so they can crumple/flex if required. BTW are they U shaped - ie they dont have a top, which is instead supplied by the wheel guard?

Egad! That's nasty. Yep - I'm in for a group buy 100%. Otherwise i'll just get some gal iron and tinsnips. It doesnt need to be too pretty down there. BTW - John from Unique Autos "We are in final stage of big Nismo style brake air deflectors" for R32 GTRs (the gtst ones have been available for ages) - expects to have something ready in about a month. Maybe a perfect compliment for these. Easier that trying to fit ducting around the wheel.

The reds are roughly equivalent to the 2500s, and either sound like what you are after. I found that the 2500/3000s were getting expensive, so if the price difference is big, try the reds. Squealing is usually an installation problem...there are a number of threads here on how to stop it. I wouldnt be replacing pads in an attempt to address that problem, because you'll probably be wasting your money.

The centrino HP laptops they have been getting at work for the last few years still have a real serial port (ie RS232 with a DB9 connector). I dont know the model name but will try to find out tomorrow. Otherwise a PCMCIA aka PCCARD serial card may be better than a USB adapter judging by what others have said here, but personally i've not heard of many problems myself and we use them often to talk to switches/routers/unix/linux boxes.

Now that i know they're standard (thanks everyone) i'll be trying wreckers first, and if i cant find any there, Nissan.

My mates GTR had front brake ducts that ran from the holes in the bottom lip back to the wheel well, and they attached to the plastic wheel well liner. My car doesnt have them, but he thought they were standard. I couldnt see them in the workshop manual - are they standard? If not, where can i get them from?

You can find skyline workshop manuals at http://www.psiparts.com.au/front.asp?pid=47

The R32 GTR kit with thermostat. Here's the info from nengun; HKS - Oil Cooler Kit - Type R Nissan - Skyline - BNR32 - 200x160x32 - 12 Row - Front Radiator 15004-AN002

I've ripped out the Chinese POS oil cooler and am marveling in the awesomeness of the HKS stuff. But a few fitting questions; - Should i use thread tape? - How hard should i do up the hose fittings? - How hard should i do up the block mounting plate? I'm guessing that the o ring will be crushed the right amount when I feel the metal on metal of the block and mounting plate, so i just nip it up enough so it wont come loose (ie not that much). Is there such thing as an open ended torque wrench? If so, is it an essential tool for this work?

Dunno how bad they've stuffed around in there, but if you haven't got an immobiliser it should just be a case of reconnecting all the cut wires. There's probably a circuit you've missed. If you cant find any unconnected wires try undoing some of the looms in case there's something hidden in there. Slow and steady - you should be able to sort it out. Good luck.

Sway bars are the biggest bang for you buck upgrade. Get adjustables and you can tune the understeer/oversteer balance. You stiffen the end you want to do more work. Ie if you're understeering, stiffen the rear to make it work harder and take some of the pressure of the fronts. I run soft at the front and hard at the rear, and i'm still a bit understeery, but its way better than stock. Also check the Suspention/Handling Articles sticky for more info.