MrStabby

Fully synthetic and LSD suitable = looks good for the diff. From the link "Recommended for (conventional and limited slip) manual transmissions where an API GL-5 or MT-1 fluid is specified". Pretty sure Nissan specifies GL-4 for the gearbox, so i dont think this would be the best for that.

This has been covered HERE

Did you mean to say "You wouldn't and shouldn't use Shockproof in a new gearbox"? MT90 is ok right?

So JB knows he had a bad batch of plates, but hasnt contacted his customers who's clutches came from the bad batch to warn them? Can anyone confirm if this is the situation or not? If its true, i consider it irresponsible and unethical, considering the potential to loose limbs.

Have you thought about; - IIRC R34s have different diff ratios to 33s so using the R34 gearbox with the R33 diffs may suck a bit (or may not - check it out) - Will you need a custom tail shaft and how much will that cost - Availability and price of aftermarket gear sets for the 6 speed compared to the 5 speed - how much it will all cost and if its really worth it ;-)

I'm not getting a signal at my fuel pump relay. From what i can see from the wiring diagram it looks like the ECU switches the +12V and the fuel pump control module switches the earth. I have wired up a direct earth so im thinking that the FPCM does nothing now. Is that right? What pin on the ECU provides the fuel pump relay signal? My diagram isnt clear enough to see.

On most multi-plate clutches the flywheel is integrated with the cage that holds the plates to there's no way to change it. I'm sure giken etc are clever enough to put a sensibly weighted flywheel in there, so forget about it

As SK stated, this might be evidence that your shocks are not up to the job, or more generally that the sway bars are intended for use with uprated suspension. I didnt notice any difference when i installed mine, but then again the Tein suspension i have is rock hard (spring rate and damping) already... That doesnt make much sense. Were the bushes properly greased? If the bar binds in the bushes it stops it working properly.

the rotor can get stuck on the hub, so they've conveniently put a pair of threaded holes into the rotor so you can just screw bolts into them and it works like a puller.

My leak was in the hose - it had a number of blisters so it would have been a waste of time to do anything but replace it. In an R32GTR it was a real bitch of a job to get it out as the rubber bit and the hard pipe were all the one piece and the hard section was wrapped around crossmember etc. Yours should be easier. Anyways i took it to enzed and they made it new again. Get of your butt and find the leak. Only then can you decide how to fix it. I cant imagine the stop leak would be effective...

Random question & comment: Are you guys going to consider holding less stock on site or beefing up the security? You've got quite a honeypot there... To look at it a different way, imagine all your stock is cash and then think about how much security you'd want in place to protect it.

Heh i'm the opposite - did a mech eng degree and as soon as i graduated i went into IT (at the bottom of course). The industrial experience work i did for mech eng was boring as batshit - using the australian standard to join the dots design pressure vessels.... GTFO. I love IT! For the OP - i dunno what that "stage 1 and 2" CCNA stuff is, but if its the Cisco certified network associate, just run up a copy of dynamips, study the shit out of it and go for the cert. There's plenty of study guides about. Its an easy cert. You're probably going to start at helldesk, so a Microsoft cert might help as well.

To fix the camber just have the righthand side brought up to -1 37 or so. I *think* this will also bring in the KPI as shortening the upper control arm to bring more camber in will cause the kingpin to lay back more. The kingpin is the upright bit that joins the lower and upper control arms (well it joins the upper and lower pieces, has bearings to allow these pieces to rotate with respect to each other, at least). I'm not describing it well - Google for it...

I think you're missing a smiley to go with this post, as obviously you are kidding and not suggesting illegal activity. Also, guys, from the Guildlines "Defamatory remarks made towards businesses or individuals will not be tolerated on this website - We understand that if you have had a bad experience with a business you want to warn other people of said experience. Unfortunately, the same publicly expressed opinion could be viewed as libelous and/or constitute an attempt to deter business from any individual or business. Australian law holds the site owner partly responsible for any defamatory remarks posted on said website, and that is unacceptable. Informing people via PM's is tolerated as it is not a public message. With this said, feel free to post any information about a business or individual that you have had good dealings with." So help Prank out and post a "if you're intending to do business with this guy, PM me first" sort of thing instead.

If you put stiffer springs in the rear, then you'll have less squat and therefore less grip for putting power down, but as long as you havent gone too far with spring rate, it should still improve lap times due to the improvement in cornering. If you've lowered the car too far so its running too much negative camber at the rear, that can also compromise power down. But, if you are single spinning it out of the corner then you'll need a diff rebuild, at which time you could think about stiffening up the LSD with shims to create more pre-load. There's some posts about it - try searching here, or maybe in the DIY section. Also think about installing pineapples in the 'grip' orientation.

the mounting face on the dumps will need to be flat to bolt up the the GT-SSs, so just do whatever is required to make it flat.

Some aftermarket dumps come with a removable divider, so they can suit the stock or GT-SS style turbine housings. The housing on the stockers is more suited to a bellmouth dump, and the divider optimises flow for split dumps. Since you're housing doesnt need it it cut it off as per BBs instructions.

Yes, my group buy/whiteline front bar touched the driveshafts (just, it fit but rubbed). After a tickle with the grinder all was good.

From what i hear this happens all the time in Glebe - i would never park there in any car. The cops are not responsive because it happens so often, and they're minors. Use the Broadway shopping center car park if you're in that area.

Heasmans are pretty good. I think Doug does all the alignments. The only problem i have had is that they aligned my car with worn tie rods. I think this was just an oversight tho as they said they always check them as a matter of course.

Dont use DBA4000s if you intend to track it - they will probably crack, see HERE Make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean when you install the new rotors (ie between the rotor and hub) otherwise they will feel warped. You'd shouldnt ever need to machine rotors unless something really bad has happened. If you're replacing pads just sand the surface until its dull before installing the new pads.

+1 for this. Re: rev limit, i'd say stick the stock rev limit if you've got a stock bottom end. If you stay off the limiter and have a good tune it should last a long time. Anything higher than that and the risk of damage increases. And its not a linear increase either - IIRC its a square increase, ie the stress at 6000rpm is four times the stress at 3000rpm, not double as you might suspect.

Err yeah, that's why i'm asking if there is a kit.... They're both 300/310hp turbos, so very similar AFAICT. Nengun is the same for the base kit, but it comes to $3250 when you include delivery and the import duties.