MrStabby

If you put stiffer springs in the rear, then you'll have less squat and therefore less grip for putting power down, but as long as you havent gone too far with spring rate, it should still improve lap times due to the improvement in cornering. If you've lowered the car too far so its running too much negative camber at the rear, that can also compromise power down. But, if you are single spinning it out of the corner then you'll need a diff rebuild, at which time you could think about stiffening up the LSD with shims to create more pre-load. There's some posts about it - try searching here, or maybe in the DIY section. Also think about installing pineapples in the 'grip' orientation.

the mounting face on the dumps will need to be flat to bolt up the the GT-SSs, so just do whatever is required to make it flat.

Some aftermarket dumps come with a removable divider, so they can suit the stock or GT-SS style turbine housings. The housing on the stockers is more suited to a bellmouth dump, and the divider optimises flow for split dumps. Since you're housing doesnt need it it cut it off as per BBs instructions.

Yes, my group buy/whiteline front bar touched the driveshafts (just, it fit but rubbed). After a tickle with the grinder all was good.

From what i hear this happens all the time in Glebe - i would never park there in any car. The cops are not responsive because it happens so often, and they're minors. Use the Broadway shopping center car park if you're in that area.

Heasmans are pretty good. I think Doug does all the alignments. The only problem i have had is that they aligned my car with worn tie rods. I think this was just an oversight tho as they said they always check them as a matter of course.

Dont use DBA4000s if you intend to track it - they will probably crack, see HERE Make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean when you install the new rotors (ie between the rotor and hub) otherwise they will feel warped. You'd shouldnt ever need to machine rotors unless something really bad has happened. If you're replacing pads just sand the surface until its dull before installing the new pads.

+1 for this. Re: rev limit, i'd say stick the stock rev limit if you've got a stock bottom end. If you stay off the limiter and have a good tune it should last a long time. Anything higher than that and the risk of damage increases. And its not a linear increase either - IIRC its a square increase, ie the stress at 6000rpm is four times the stress at 3000rpm, not double as you might suspect.

Err yeah, that's why i'm asking if there is a kit.... They're both 300/310hp turbos, so very similar AFAICT. Nengun is the same for the base kit, but it comes to $3250 when you include delivery and the import duties.

Being a noob i like the idea of the HKS kit as i know i'll have all the bits and pieces i need. I there a complete gasket/stud/nut etc installation kit for the garretts? Where from? Group buy has the garretts at $2150, and IIRC the HKS kit is over $3K.

Can't you just pull the current arm out and match it up? (Or does that still leave you with two options....??). I'm sure someone on the list is using this type, try searching for "midori" or "dogbone" You should probably adjust the new arm to be the same length as the current arm, as a starting point.

Note SK said "at the sills". Compare the top of the wheel arch to sill at the front and back. I'd imagine they are 20mm different, hence why its 10mm nose down.

Site sponsor Kudos does them HERE, but for a 32 GTR its still ~$325. FWIW R31/VL sensors are <$100.... I also need some, and i'll put them in when i install turbos and xforce dumps (which also come with reducers). Does anyone know if all titania o2 sensors are electrically the same WRT sensor output? (and therefore theoretically adapable?)

Here's some really wild guesses..... - When you do the timing belt, do the alternator/aircon etc belts at the same time if they're not 100%, id guess 1200-1500 for all this if using nissan parts. You might need cam seals at the same time.... - Unless you need to machine the brakes, dont bother. Just sand it dull with wet and dry. Do it yourself. Price will depend on pads which could be anything from $75-400 a pair depending on what you get. - Power steering bleeding is just done my turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then to the right and repeat a few times. To replace the fluid, shouldnt be much, <$100 - Clutch, depends on what you get, maybe around $1000-1200 all up. - Cam gears will need a dyno tune to get right, maybe $900 - coolant and thermostat maybe $50

So, where can i get a suitable dial gauge and how much will it cost? Are there any tricks to checking rotors that have the slots all the way to the edge? Anything else to know or is it as straightforward as it seems?

Yeah it was Singo. Bentley Turbo IIRC. If you had the cash you could do the same thing (if you car was up to standard). Lawyer might have been Chris Murphy.

I asked the forum if i could use an R33 box in my R32 if i swapped the bellhousing and transfer case - and the answer from the gurus (IIRC Duncan and Twoogle Paul) was yes.

Mine makes 13psi at 3300rpm (on dyno, so 4th gear). If you mean what revs at stock boost, it would of course be less than that. It starts making boost at around 2000rpm. Its running stock dumps and makes 242kw.