MrStabby

Being a noob i like the idea of the HKS kit as i know i'll have all the bits and pieces i need. I there a complete gasket/stud/nut etc installation kit for the garretts? Where from? Group buy has the garretts at $2150, and IIRC the HKS kit is over $3K.

Can't you just pull the current arm out and match it up? (Or does that still leave you with two options....??). I'm sure someone on the list is using this type, try searching for "midori" or "dogbone" You should probably adjust the new arm to be the same length as the current arm, as a starting point.

Note SK said "at the sills". Compare the top of the wheel arch to sill at the front and back. I'd imagine they are 20mm different, hence why its 10mm nose down.

Site sponsor Kudos does them HERE, but for a 32 GTR its still ~$325. FWIW R31/VL sensors are <$100.... I also need some, and i'll put them in when i install turbos and xforce dumps (which also come with reducers). Does anyone know if all titania o2 sensors are electrically the same WRT sensor output? (and therefore theoretically adapable?)

Here's some really wild guesses..... - When you do the timing belt, do the alternator/aircon etc belts at the same time if they're not 100%, id guess 1200-1500 for all this if using nissan parts. You might need cam seals at the same time.... - Unless you need to machine the brakes, dont bother. Just sand it dull with wet and dry. Do it yourself. Price will depend on pads which could be anything from $75-400 a pair depending on what you get. - Power steering bleeding is just done my turning the steering wheel all the way to the left, then to the right and repeat a few times. To replace the fluid, shouldnt be much, <$100 - Clutch, depends on what you get, maybe around $1000-1200 all up. - Cam gears will need a dyno tune to get right, maybe $900 - coolant and thermostat maybe $50

So, where can i get a suitable dial gauge and how much will it cost? Are there any tricks to checking rotors that have the slots all the way to the edge? Anything else to know or is it as straightforward as it seems?

Yeah it was Singo. Bentley Turbo IIRC. If you had the cash you could do the same thing (if you car was up to standard). Lawyer might have been Chris Murphy.

I asked the forum if i could use an R33 box in my R32 if i swapped the bellhousing and transfer case - and the answer from the gurus (IIRC Duncan and Twoogle Paul) was yes.

Mine makes 13psi at 3300rpm (on dyno, so 4th gear). If you mean what revs at stock boost, it would of course be less than that. It starts making boost at around 2000rpm. Its running stock dumps and makes 242kw.

Just to give John another - he did the water pump, cam belt, tensioner, idler, air/powersteer/alternator belts on my 32 GTR. He did great work and gave me a good price. It was also cool to be able to hang around and chat about a few other aspects of the car. Definitely recommended.

Pretty sure its just alignment. If you can get more castor added that will help, or maybe a bit of toe. If you got a printout of the settings post it up so the gurus can take a look, and give you real answers instead of my guesses.

So dont use 5.0 which is silicon. Use 5.1 which is not.

FWIW there are heavy penalties for removing emissions equipment (ie decat) for a car that's used on the road. A high flow (magic cat/metal cat/catco) style cat shouldnt restrict power at all on your setup, and will reduce the smell and the amount of black crap that will end up on your rear bar.

Could be a number of things - eg. if the cars been lowered and hasnt had adjusters added to the suspension arms the rear geometry will be stuffed. Look in the General maintenance section for a buying tips thread.

There's an ECU that controls the fuel pump - yours has probably died. Same thing happened to my GTR. I opened up the unit and found a dry solder joint and burnt pin. Its located behind the trim on the drivers side in the back seat. It receives signals from the main ECU. There was are "what are these" thread a week ago that had pictures of it. Searchy. EDIT the thread is HERE top picture

If you go GTR brembo, dont use DBA4000 rotors as they crack under track punishment. DBA5000s seem to be ok. If it were me i'd use G4 kits tho. You havent mentioned tyres.... if you're really serious you'll get two sets of rims - one with R spec tyres for the track, the other with street tyres for, uh, the street... If you dont want to run two sets of rims, go for something track friendly like Falken RT-615s or Federal 595RS (not 595 aka 595SS).

That's not how it works - both turbos are producing 1 bar for each set of 3 cylinders they feed.

The G4 kit doesnt take the pad all the way to the edge, so it should avoid that problem. Also the radial direction of the DBA4000 slot seems to contribute to the stress build up. On other designs the slots are about 45 degrees to the tangent, rather than being almost 90 degrees.