MrStabby

I'm guessing that corner shim thing is also to help with squeal. I'm missing some of mine but it hasnt been a problem, as i have the goo and grease to keep the squeal in control.

The bosch is not a drop in fit for R32 GTR, so i went with a 500hp sard (not sure how many liters that is). Nice easy fit - no extra noise. The bosch would have required me to throw away the pump cradle, so i would have lost pickup depth and sound insulation.

I've done that one - fun to get out huh? I also did a dodgy looking air con hose while i was there. Enzed made a new one up for me on the spot. Second hand would be waste of time IMO.

Really? Then why do DuPont claim "Teflon is not useful as an ingredient in oil additives or oils used for internal combustion engines."?

http://grapevine.com.au/~marzenna/ He's on the forum, just PM him (his name is Toshi on the forum as well). No workshop, but he has a wideband sensor and knock microphone....

If you use a cheapie oil then the Nulon might be worthwhile, but with the good stuff like Redline they will have already put all the additives in so there's no need. You might actually go a bit backwards as you will upset Redline's balance of the additive concentrations. That's the theory at least. Ring them if you want first hand info.

I havent been involved in engineering for 13 years so my memory had faded badly, but IIRC asking from something "stronger" probably wont be precise enough - you need to find out if it was brittle or ductile failure, to know what stronger will mean. Maybe best to see if you can get your hands on a broken set of gears so the engineering guys can check it out and make a recommendation. Hopefully the engineers on this forum can comment further/tell me i'm talking crap.

Oh look, he's put on his asbestos gimp suit. Sicko Victorians.

Has anyone done this? I'm thinking about buying a gearbox but will need to get it couriered back to sydney. How easy is it and who should i use?

AFAIK The fuel pump control module switches a soft earth to the pump at idle, so the pump doesnt run hard when it doesnt need to. It then switches a full earth to give the full 14volts when required. So running 14 volts shouldn't be a problem, but the earth you've wired shouldnt be necessery. I'm guessing Nissan included the control module to reduce noise and perhaps reduce heating the fuel a little. I have a sard and its not any noisier than stock.

I've bought at the Mobil on Victoria Rd Rydelmere, and the Mobil on the corner of Parramatta and Pyrmont Bridge roads recently. All the Shell's i've tried are out...

This should be in the Wanted to Buy section; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wanted-Buy-f13.html

If by "bigger" you mean "higher flow" then you will increase the risk of oil starvation, as the higher flow pump will push more oil to the top of the motor than the standard pump. This will empty the sump more quickly, unless you add other oil control mods. Read SK's oil control thread Here +1 for N1GTRs tips, re 25% throttle, I think he just means take it easy until its warmed up, ie just drive at normal traffic speed. Also; - dont hit the rev limiter - dont use oil that's too thick. IMO ?W-40 is as high as you need to go with a quality oil. - providing the injectors and pump are in good condition they'll be fine for 250

The only time you'd need to run 100 is if the car had a hardcore jap tune setup to get the most out of the jap fuel. If you have a standard ECU our 98 is fine. Of course you would have noticed the pinging by now if it was a problem.