MrStabby

For stuff you cant find at hardware shops try Coventry Fasteners. Eg i got the allen bolts for the ignition coil cover there. http://www.tef.com.au/coventry/divisions/i...ontacts.htm#nsw

You cant expect much grip from cheapo rubber like NS2's Try 35 to see how it goes. Also check If the inside of the tyre is wearing out more than the edges (which means you're running too much pressure) <edit my retarded comment> double check the rear bar is on hard (ie the inner setting). Otherwise get a decent suspension shop to check your alignment. BTW - is the brake squeal sorted? What was the fix?

There's a o2 sensor sticky in the general maintenance section... 25 pages with bad signal to noise ratio, but it might answer the question.

+1 for HackerX. They're asking all this crap to sus out your body language more thas actually being interested in the responses. This includes seeing how self disciplined you are in holding yourself back from irritation. No need to get all emo about it. HTFU. Play the game - once you get good at it you'll be able to manipulate and control the situation. Of course its much easier to do at 35 than it is at 20. Also IMNSHO the reason cops are often kents is that 99% of the people they deal with are dickwads, so they treat all ppl like they're dickwads. Like doctors think everyone is sick. Last time a cop pulled me over, i got out of the car straight away, and put on my happy "hey man what's up" act. And i got off

I'm sure any half decent lawyer could sort that out in court without breaking a sweat. Of course, you had no intention to drive the car on the street until it was roadworthy, so the ticket is bogus. Ladybytes has a good point about mods as well - just say you put full slicks on, then trailered the car to the track. There's no way the defect would hold up under court scrutiny. Similar for if you intend to only run the car in the summernats grounds, ie not in a public road. Also, if you were trailering a car in those circumstances, you could pull the CAS plug before you set off, so if you were instructed by the police to move it off the trailer you could respond with "it doesnt start".

Have you read SK's shock absorber 101 sticky? The damping adjusters are a wank - they make bugger all difference (according to a well respected Sydney suspension shop's shock dyno)

GL4 and GL5 are oil standards/specifications. The oil your mechanic used would probably have been one or the other. It shouldnt be a problem if he used either in both the gearbox and diff. Many people dont know there's a difference. It certainly wont damage things the way the ATF did. You need 1 litre for the front diff, 1.5 litres for the rear diff and 4.5 liters for the gearbox.

Sorry to hear about your gearbox - only R34s GTRs use ATF in their manual gearboxes. For the gearbox you want to use 75W-90 GL-4 For the front (open diff) you want 75W-90 GL-5 For the rear (LSD) you want 75W-90 GL-5 for LSD Try to use fully synthetic for all gear oils, and you'll never need to change them again.

Yeah your new injectors will be pushing way too much fuel in. There's a PowerFC FAQ up at; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm There should be enough info there to get you going.

I have the same thing, but only after track punishment then cool down cruising at 100km/h. I assumed it may have been burnt off power steering fluid as i had a leaking hose. Only just fixed the hose so i dont know if i still have the problem or not.

I just bought some JBL 6x9s. The speaker box said 4ohm in one place and 2ohm in another, so i checked with the salesman and he said they're fine to use with a regular head unit. I've now opened the box and the speakers are definately 2ohm. The headunit's instructions says you should hook up 4 or 8 ohm speakers. So, do i need to return the speakers? What would be the consequence of running this combo?

Edit; I drained my fluid by undoing one of the pipes from the pump to the rack, at the rack and let it drain out (took quite a while). I wouldnt run the engine while draining the system, but maybe i'm just being paranoid. For bleeding the workshop manual says something like; -Top up the fluid -With the engine off, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue turning back and forth until you stop seeing bubbles. Might as well lift the front wheels off the ground first to make it easy. -Top up fluid if required -start the motor, then repeat turning the steering wheel all the way to the left then all the way to the right - continue until you stop seeing bubbles Then your done. I did this today. My friend looked for bubbles during the last step, but didnt see any. The steering is fine.

Sounds normal to me. The only time i get high oil temp is on the track.

Yeah sounds like your clutch is slipping. I have the old group buy 240kw one, and am currently running 242rwkw with no slip, but thats with a near stock RB26, so the torque curve is flat. Maybe just pull the boost back a few psi at a time until it stops slipping, then organise a tougher clutch.

As long as its good (at it should be with those ks) that's a great price. From what i've seen they're usually more like $800. How did you find it?

Did you mean thicker? 5W-50 is only thinner when cold. Its about 25% more viscous at 100 deg C. I'd stick with the 10W-40 unless you have an oil temperature problem, in which case you're better off fixing that than putting in a thicker oil. Remember Nissan recommend 7.5W-30.

This probably isnt going to help much but i was told that the squealing is caused by the piston to shim/brake pad surface. Before i ran my caliper upgrade, i was using the following and had no squeal with DS2500s Piston -> red rubber goo -> shim1 -> nissan pad grease (still there, just re-spread it out) -> shim2 -> pad IIRC the goo needs to be left for 10mins. Maybe if you dont let it dry a bit you just push it all out when you first apply the brake. Is the grease you got especially for brake shims or is it just regular copper grease? PM me if you want to come to Syd inner west to let me have a look. I'm no expert but a new set of eyes may help.

Yep vanes are on the inside between the braking surfaces. I'll take a quick look at the other thread.

I dont think the slot orientation will make much difference, but the vane orientation will (to cooling). Make sure they're pushing air from the center out when you're going forward. Squealing will probably be a pad installation issue. There's plenty of posts on how to cure it. Hail Mr Searchy for assistance.

So start soft and then crank it up. If its already quite stiff at soft you might find you just go backwards when you stiffen it - especially with respect to traction over bumpy bits. Yep - if you dont have aftermarket rollbars already, get the whiteline adjustables. From what SK told me they're the best way to improve the handling of the car for quite a small amount of money. Now that i have them i see what he meant! Start with front soft, rear medium, then bump the rear up to hard it its still understeering too much. Re: neg camber, you could consider pulling some out of your rear tyres, which may help with powerdown - just depends on where you're at now.

+1 to bnr#@ - you defiantly want the front strut brace. There's some confusion earlier in the thread between suspension stiffness and suspension mounting point stiffness. You may not feel the difference with the strut brace unless you push hard with sticky tyres, but they're cheap so just get one to give you a good basis to work off. FWIW i have the whileline adjustable sway bars and run the front full soft and the rear full hard. What alignment setting are you going to ask for?

This is a good start http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm. I leave my Teins on full soft for both street and track. If you need better turn in i'd be looking at alignment or stiffening rear swar bar/softening front sway bar.

Which ones are you running on the track? There appears to be Street, Sport and Race options, and i have the Street pads. Since pads are easy to change i was going to try a set of QFM A1RMs from track then swap them back to the kit pads for street use.

FWIW, JustJap are now selling these for $2000 (330mm kit). What should i ask for when buying pads for these? Do I just say I need pads for an AP caliper or do i need to be more specific than that?

Are the GTR gearboxes interchangeble if i only swap the gearbox itself?