MrStabby

+1 to Amec When in closed loop mode the reading from the o2 sensor should fluctuate wildly as the ECU keeps slightly richening then leaning the mixtures to get as close as possible to stoichiometric. Narrowband o2 sensors really only have two states - rich and lean - which result in two very different voltages. As the mixture flicks between rich and lean the voltage jumps up and down. Your LM1 will have a wideband sensor in which richness/leanness is proportional to voltage, so you can get a value out of it. My guess is that the spare you put in was stuffed (was it new?). There is a long thread in the General Maintenance on o2 sensors. Get a six pack and wade your way through it....

Remember that RBs have an air bleed for the cooling system, as the engine is higher than the radiator. Its at the top of the motor at the front on the drivers side.... you probably need a photo if you dont know where it is already.

Here's my 2c, but then dont mistake me for someone who actually knows stuff; Split dumps are a better design and should make more power/spool better, but they are more tightly tied to turbo size (turbine diameter and wastegate diameter). If you get split dumps designed for a standard sized turbo, and try to bolt them up to a larger turbo you may have problems. Open dumps are much less sensitive to turbo size, but wont work as efficiently.

Have you read through the Suspension/handling Articles sticky? From http://www.wtrscca.org/tech.htm "For Steady state understeer, All turns or low-speed turns only; If front tire temps are optimum and rears are low, stiffen rear antiroll bar; if front temps are too hot, soften front (most likely). If front tire pressures are optimum, decrease rear tire pressure. Increase if chunking occurs. Improper front camber. Too much body roll at front, causing excessive camber change. For Steady state understeer, High-speed turns only If front tire temps are OK, increase front downforce. If front tire temps are too hot, reduce rear downforce." etc.

More DBA gheyness, crack in the usual spot. Obviously doesnt matter that the slot is not machined to the edge. I've got the G4 330mm kit now.

Into the beers tonight? He said; Black smoke = rich mixtures, which is normal when the boost is turned up with the standard engine management. it wont cause any problems other than wasting fuel and limiting power. So, turn the boost down (ok, maybe not) or get some aftermarket engine management and a tune.

Yeah i made it home - no damage. Thanks for the push I did a 2.05, but was still getting into the zone when the hose burst. The RT-615s are a huge improvement over the Fed 595SSs

$308 for 255/40/17s from Castle Hill Jax, + $8 per tyre for nitrogen fill. CH Jax was recommended in another thread. Other places quoted $325/330. They look pretty chunky compared to the 595SS Federals i was running. I need to see what times i can do at Wakefield to make a comparison - i didnt time at EC the other time i went.

Last time i went to EC (i think this day is run by the same group) they had 4 or 5 instructors, so you'd expect it to be a bit more exy. Got a set of Falken RT-615s fitted today, just got to cut off my rear brake dust shields and i'm ready. I booked in on Monday and there were 20 spots left.

The chart with the numbers is here

Thanks bullet - that's good info. I had the treadwears as 595RS = 180 (I didnt know about the 140) RT-615 = 200 KU15 = 220 Which is in the same ballpark, but I agree the Kumho tread pattern looks the least hardcore with the Falken in between it and the 595Rses. RT-615 595RS

I'm a 'probably' for this one. Just need oil cooler, tyres, brake cooling....still two weekends away so should be ok unless work interferes.

Does anyone have first hand experience with these? They appear to be in the same space as Falken RT615s and Federal 595RS, but are about half the price. Too good to be true?

If the backing plates arent exactly that same size as the old ones, then you're got the wrong pad. Or are you talking about the distance between the caliper piston and the rotor? If so, you need to push the pistons back into the caliper whenever installing new pads. I like to open the bleeder before doing this as i dont like the idea of pushing old fluid back into the system.

Its called a flare nut spanner, but if he cant get an open-ender in there, there's bugger all chance a flare nut spanner will be any better. They tend to be a bit chunkier than a ring spanner to compensate for the cut.

I thought the fronts were db1170s, which look like this

I get that, but only on the street. I know my rear springs are too hard, but is there another reason it happens?

I heard ages ago that you could just swap the controllers, did a 1 minute google and came up with; http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/6095-r32...controller.html which refers to this http://www.carsurvey.org/review_19225.html Which says "Unless you know what you're doing you'll be better off with an R33 or R34, but for the ultimate in more than one sense of the word, an early R32 is hard to beat. Handling can be subdued considerably by swapping in the ATTESSA-ETS AWD controller unit from R34, which pretty much makes the car behave like its newer counterparts."

That's some hardcore brake pr0n - nice one. Why did you choose this setup over one of the high end bolt on kits? A bit of adventure?

Pix please. How far? Think about what directions the bar and shafts can move in and you should be able to get an idea of if they're likely to touch. FWIW i had to grind off the ends for my white line front sway bar as it just touched my driveshafts (GTR)

I've never heard that referred to as heat soak before, but maybe i need to get out more. Google for heat soak and you'll see what i mean. My stock 32 GTR has a factory snorkel....so it doesnt pull any air from the engine bay YMMV. You're being a bit to literal :-)

Very close, the air is more dense on a cold day, so the engine management adds more fuel to maintain the correct A/F ratio, and you make more power because you're burning more fuel. And vice verca so less power on a hot day.

FWIW, here's a definition of heat soak from here. This is why you use a turbo timer, it has nothing to do with loosing power on a hot day. "When the engine is switched OFF, the cooling system becomes inactive and the residual heat in the engine from the block, head and exhaust manifold are transferred to the coolant and other engine components. The engine temperature actually increases after a hot engine shutdown. This is called 'afterboil' or 'heat soak' and can be damaging to engine life."

From the pic, the compressor AR is .42 so check that against; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/gtr-turbochart.htm

+1 Resoldering is so easy you might as well. I did mine even though they appeared to be ok.