MrStabby

I'm after one of those air guides that sits in the intercooler air hole and guides the air to the core only (so it narrows the standard hole by about 40mm on the left and right sides). Does anyone know where i can get them from? Doesnt have to be nismo if someone else does them.

Can you be a little more specific on which pad from these companies? When i was researching pads many said that the EBC reds (which are pitched at about the same level as the 2500s) were an inferior pad at about the same price.

Actually looking at the difference between djrs and mine it looks like they may just machine the a 324 to bring it down 296 - look at the way the vanes go all the way to the edge on the 296's and are smoothly machined, where as the 324 still have the cast finish and stop well short of the edge. Perhaps they further machine poorly cast 324s to make them saleable as 296's....

Sorry about the poor quality but you can just see it;

I just took a careful look at djr81's rotor photos - on my as yet uncracked DBA4000s, the slot is NOT machined all the way to the edge like it is in those photos. It stops a few mm short. Perhaps they updated the design?

Interesting to look at the slot design on the G4s, it appears quite sensible - the slots dont reach the edge, and are almost tangential near the edge as they curve around, so would spread the stress nicely.

http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2007/10/micro_ca...he_working.html

That's normal with using the sumitomo calipers (from the 296mm rotor) with the larger 324mm rotor. If i got the brembos the pad would wipe the whole face. I would be worried about the moving the radial centerline of the pad away from the centerline of the pistons (i know i'm not describing that well) as this would place uneven force on the top of the pistons. They're designed to generate force and move in a single dimension, so i dont know if they'd cope well in the long term. Again brembos are the best solution for that IMO. Anyway i couldnt see any issues with the fitment, so i've removed the calipers, sanded the mating surfaces to marginally change the angle of the caliper and refitted. Now i need to find time for tie-rods + alignment then wakie again for another thrash. I'll take the DS3000s with me and swap them over if i have any more problems. Thanks everyone.

I'd call Fair Trading to get some solid advice on the best way to proceed. http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/ http://www.fairtrading.qld.gov.au/

Re: hacking, as John P will tell you, they dont just bolt on. I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work to get them into a position that allowed them to be bolted up. The bolt holes in the bracket dont line up until you've removed material on a number of surfaces. Also, you have to bend the brake line a lot to get it to reach. If i were to make the decision today i'd go for the justjap 330mm G4 kit over the UAS 324. In this photo you can see the bottom of the lower bolt hole on the hub has been ground to allow the bracket to fit. I had to remove more that what's in this picture, i doubt this picture shows the finished job.

The 343mm kit is fine - there's enough room to make a simple bracket. The 324s have an odd shape that moves the caliper out radially as well as down tangentially to get enough room. Its cleverly designed and nicely machined, but there just not enough room to make it an easy fit.

For street, the stockers are fine. You dont need RBF600 (Dot 5.1 is half the price and should last longer), or the UAS kit (i have it and its an inelegant solution, a bit too much hacking to get it on IMO). Consider rebuilding the calipers tho to make sure they're in top shape. The kit for the front cost me $85 from Racebrakes. Rear was $40. Likewise you dont need to worry about removing the dust covers or ducting.

Do you have a pic? Are they the ducts that run from the front lip back to the wheel arch?

You're onto something here (and so was ferni, sorry man). Just checked the inside face of the rotor and its discoloured at a shorter radius, if you know what i mean, so opposite to the outside. This means that the caliper is not sitting in exactly the same plane as the rotor. I will pull it all apart and check the dimensions with verniers. I installed it. Its all torqued up correctly. I didnt like how much material had to be removed to get it to fit (John warned me about that). Perhaps its not sitting 100% flush because i need to remove more material, or perhaps the brackets aren't quite right. To the naked eye it looks ok, but i'd imagine if it were a fraction of a mm off it would still cause problems. thanks

Yep its sitting flush. I think its using the whole surface, but perhaps its getting hotter near the outer edge, causing the problem. Going by past experience shudder can be stopped by sanding the blue deposit off the rotor. To bed in i just drive normally and let it happen. I gradually raise my braking intensity on my first lap, then go pretty hard from there. Link is interesting - i could use DS3000s as the race pad option. Thanks for your non-expert feedback - its all good.

So its normal?...I never had this problem in my Porka 928S with shitty single piston calipers and shitty EBC greenstuff pads. I could beat the crap out of them all day with no problems at all.

The power's in my sig (242kw). Tyres are Federal 595SS's - adequate street tyres, not very grippy on the track tho. Brakes held up much better since i rebuilt the calipers, but after not that long they went off and got more and more shudder. Yeah shudder was the only problem, i think they were still pulling up ok but i do tend to back off when they start to shudder badly. 1:15.5 (using Racechrono - its pretty cool) around Wakie with a fair bit of understeer.

Setup: R32 GTR, UAS 324mm rotor upgrade, DS2500s, Motul 600, rebuilt calipers Here's what they look like after a track session; And when they get that blue colour around the outside they shudder badly. I can sand it off with wet and dry and things go back to normal. So what should i try next? Maybe - DS3000s (are 2500s really good enough for track?) - Cut off backing plate/guard - UAS brake cooling air deflectors - ???

Pretty sure the housings are stock - the clipped wheels are smaller than stock, hence the gap.

I undo the bleeder when i'm pushing the pistons back, for the reason you just encountered, and because i dont like the idea of pushing old fluid back into the system. I'd rather add new fluid to the master when i'm pumping it back up. It should be ok tho, just bleed it now, pump it up with the pedal and drive carefully until the pads bed in. Yeah just wash the spilled fluid off the engine bay (but dont get any on the master)

Ok, in case anyone is interested; CTW is clipped turbine wheels = highflow. What the hell, i'll bang 'em on with some split dumps and see how it goes on the dyno. If the response is crappy i'll stop being a tightwad and get the N1s.

Or to look at it another way the wheel is too small. Bugger. Thanks all for your opinions.

Transmax Z has a higher boiling point than regular ATF, and should last a lot longer.

Unused rebuilt stockers with steel wheels. Receipt from Lavish Performance lists "2x CTW Turbine wheel", no mention of hiflowing.

Did i buy a pair of duds? There is a lot of clearance between the turbine wheel and the housing - the wheel just looks too small. This looks more like what i would have expected.