MrStabby

I never believe anything tyre retailers say - they recommend whatever they have in stock. Stick to your guns and get the tyres you want. They should be able to order them in.

Bugger... 500rpm is too much for me. How much are the -7s? You mean more bandaids than usual.....bugger again.

There are three mating surfaces where you could apply the glue - pad to shim, shim to shim, and shim to piston. I *think* shim to piston is the critical one. I also left the grease between the shims. Cleaning it off may not have been a good idea.

Slide used to do a pair of highflows for $1600, and CRD and others do a pair of garretts for $2500. Non-slide high flows will probably be more expensive, as Slide had good prices. I have some follow on questions, as my turbos have done 100,000km so i'm looking at these options. - would a rebuild be about the same cost as a highflow? - are there other ancillary costs when going to the garretts (mods to reduce oil flow? new lines?) - how much different is the spool response? Nismoid, does "Same response as stock virtually" mean that the garretts are a tiny bit slower but its barely noticeable?

My 32 GTR came with 3inch front pipe, stock cat, then 3.5in apexi system. After putting in a 3.5 inch metalcat, the seat of the pants dyno said extra ~20kw. Car went from [email protected] psi to 242@13 psi (brought to boost down for extra safety margin a long time before the cat went on) +1 for Adrianos comment - that's my plan.

Check out Paul's PowerFC FAQ Here first, then google, then try again here if required ;-)

Gas is produced when the organic pad material breaks down, and the slots are there to provide an easy exit. This prevents the pad and rotor friction from being compromised by the layer of trapped gas. I'm sure i read that somewhere...hopefully its not BS Ferodo DS2500s FTW

Nissandatascan has a rom dump feature so i guess so. Yes you need a consult cable - i bought the plms one and it works fine.

The fitting instructions for the whiteline kit (which i assume is the polymer version of what you have) are HERE

Heavy duty organic clutch should do fine. I bought one from C & B's group buy Here. The GB is pretty old so it might be closed now. Very easy to drive and holds 242kw no problems. The pink ones are probably similar. Whether the flywheel needs machining depends on its condition - much like brake rotors. AFAIK there's no need to use a twin plate clutch until you get to ~300kw+. The standard clutch is single plate.

I have the same problem. I replaced the rotors - no difference. My next step is to clean the rotor to hub mating surfaces to make sure they're both shiny metal. Some of the stuff i found on the web said that even a tiny bit crud on here will cause problems. I've done one side and it took 3 hours.... but i wanted to be sure it was perfect. Its worth a try.

Wakefield Park - 2 hours from sydney, nice safe circuit Eastern Creek - maybe 30-45mins from the CBD, more interesting than wakie, but more chance of hitting something if you have an off

He ran it on a dyno and verified the result, so there's no much room for doubt. I have a consult interface and have datascan and ecutalk - neither of which show knock. Do you know of any consult software that has knock reading? Datascan can monitor arbitrary memory locations, so i assume if i knew the location i could read the sensors output...

If you want to keep changing the tune, burning EEPROMs and changing them will become tiresome, so you could try; http://home.aanet.com.au/nistune/

So could you use a large vice in place of a press? What other special tools? I wouldn't mind trying to rebuild it myself.

I agree that putting a resistor in will make it run leaner, but dont forget what Adriano said earlier - the AFM's response is not linear, so if you use a resistor (which is linear) you will stuff up the signal in the rest of the curve to "fix" it in the part you're looking at. That's why you use a piggy back instead. Its a clever resistor that tweaks the signal by different amounts for different inputs. BTW - i'm guessing, hopefully someone that knows can confirm/deny!

I have Nissan data scan and it has an address watch feature that could be used to read knock if you knew what address the knock sensor wrote to. Does anyone know the address for R32 GTRs or have some other software that can read knock?

The 452 superceeded the 451, it should be a better tyre. By bigger they'll be referring to tread width i'd say. I used to have 245 451s and the tread width was quite narrow, about 220-225mm. so they looked a bit skinny and didnt protect the rims well. From the links that Xizor posted some are bigger and some are smaller, just check the tread width column for the size you want.

Good luck with yours. I've changed rotors, got alignment, replaced bushes etc and it still shudders really badly on the track. The next thing i'm going to try is pulling the rotors off and cleaning the mating surfaces so you could eat off them....if there's even the tiniest bit of crap it can cause a problem.

Standard pads are hopeless for track use - try Ferodo DS2500s. Also use high temp brake fluid, like Motul 600. Heh, if you're anything like me you didnt notice they were rooted on the track because you were pumped with adrenaline and using huge force on the pedal without realising!

I bought 255/40 17s for $180 each a while back (about 9 months?) from Tyrepower at Alexandria. I'm also BNR32 with 17x9s. I'm happy with the tyres, but i read a car magazine review that said the Falken 452's were better at about the same money, so i'd probably try them if i were in the market for tyres now. Since you have a quote, just use that as bargaining point, to see if anyone will beat it. They're all a bit flexible and probably wont give the best price first up. There's place on the highway at Chatswood that does Federal (was it Payless?).

I'm pretty sure the input shaft bearings are gone on my 32 GTR, but when i asked Croydon about it they didnt seem to think it was a big deal, as i'm not making that much power (240awkw). That was a year ago....but i'm gentle with my baby. A 32 GTR box sold on ebay recently for $670. Just jap used to (and may still) sell new ones for $3200.

1 hour! All i can say is It took me and a couple of mates 5 hours to do an R32 GTR clutch (no flywheel removal) on the ground. A GTR is more difficult, but still....

When i took my R32 GTR gearbox out, I used two 500mm extensions and a universal joint to undo the top bolts from underneath the car. I wrapped some electrical tape around the uni joint to stop it from flopping down, but still be flexible. You end up using a breaker bar near the end of the gearbox.

Nasty! I've done a day at eastern creek and a day or two at wakefield on a set of SS595s. No problems so far but i'll be keeping a very close eye on those sidewalls now.. Are you going to contact Federal about it? It would be interesting to see what they say, and you might get some replacements out of it :-)