MrStabby

Go the goo! Read thru this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...161591&st=0 nathmacca - try the goo or grease first, much cheaper than new pads.

IIRC the most critical is caliper (actually the piston). I read somewhere that the noise is generated there. I think i did; pad - goo - shim1 - some old grease that was still there - shim2 - goo - piston. The goo just ends up working like glue.

Tein NAs - single adjustment (so i dont know if its bump, rebound or both). I run full soft on the street, but what sort of tuning can i do on track days? Can i influence understeer/oversteer with damping? Tnx

The way you fit the pads can make a big difference with noise. Have you got the factory anti-squeal shim kit? Adding some of that CBC goo to the back of my shims completely quietened my brakes (pads are ferodo DS2500s, which i'm guessing should squeal worse that the ultimates as they are a more hardcore pad). You can see the CBC bottle here. Any spare parts shop should have it.

Offtopic, but you can use google to search SAU (and it works way better than the crappola built in search). Just do your usual google search but add "site:www.skylinesaustralia.com" without the quotes after the rest of your search terms. Peace & hugs everybody

If you've got a few spare hours ;-) look through the "Tyres youd use" sticky - no reviews but on page 19 "PSI GTSII" bought some and posted pix. A number of posts have price info. Maybe PM PSI GTSII? AFAIK the only other similar tyres are the Falken RT-615s, which were a little cheaper when i priced them in August last year.

You're up to 30... does that mean its now full? I'd like to attend. My car has been at Heasmans for two weeks, should get it back tomorrow. New upper control arms, castor bushes and reset springs. Cant wait to drive it again!

I'd say definitely change it - i just changed my stock cat for a metal cat and cant believe the difference. Noticeably more power, smoother, and maybe better econ (got 470k out of the first tank after the change, i usually get 430/440. Maybe it was a one off...). YMMV as my stock cat appeared to be in reasonable condition - certainly no flames. FWIW i had 231awkw with the stock cat, must be like 250awkw with the metalcat.

Not at all. I suspect they have built the system to be emissions legal at many different intake temps. I made the assumption that a bigger intercooler would be analogous to a lower ambient temperature. I may well be full of crap as i have no first hand experience, but the reasoning behind "change anything and you can expect the emissions to get worse" seems pretty weak. Care to elaborate on why? Is it because the intercooler changes the oxygen composition ;-)

For my low R32, 2 sets of whiteline rear adjustable bush kits from sydneykids group buy were enough, but the whiteline front kit didn't have enough adjustability, so Heasmans are fitting adjustable arms. IIRC sydneykid reckons 340mm wheel centerline to guard is a low as you should go. If you're lower than that it might be worth raising your car to at least that level, or it may be very difficult to get a good alignment setup. Might be worth asking him directly tho...

The change in temperature and density will be measured by the air mass meter(s), and the ECU will use this signal to set injector pulse. If everything's working well it should not affect emissions much, if at all. Change in oxygen composition? Do you mean change the oxygen content of air? By what process could that occur?? For the original poster - take it to a tuner and ask for an emissions legal tune ;-) You will need to do different things depending on which exhaust gases are too high, so get an emissions check from the RTA to give you a baseline starting point. Read this thread thru to the end; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...amp;hl=emission HTH

Race brakes quoted $540 per set, compared to $555 for Unique Autos. So not much difference, and since i'd need delivery from RBs and not from Unique the difference is nothing for me.

Looks like no informed owners have responded so here's the ramblings of an idiot... all just IMO Your engine can die from; - oil starvation - pinging - overheating - turbo failure I like the well tuned PFC idea - more power and better economy, and since it will turn on the engine warning light on if the pinging gets too high, you can know if somethings gone wrong (or if you got a bad batch of fuel). You can also monitor other stuff from the hand controller (eg injector duty cycle) Bigger sump or oil cooler with have no effect on oil pressure. The bigger sump will help prevent oil starvation, and the oil cooler will help keep oil temps down at the track. Neither are probably required for street use. Keeping the oil at the correct operating temperature is important, and i find my oil temp gets uncomfortably high on the track - hopefully i'll get around to fitting my oil cooler this weekend. I wont bother with the sump as its expensive and i'm only running street tyres. I also over fill the oil for track days. High cornering speed at high RPM is where you'll get oil starvation. I dont think changing the oil or water pumps is required, start with the oil cooler first. Not having one is an odd ommission on a high performance turbo engine. Big ends - likewise not worth it. Rebuild the whole motor if its worn, or just run it as it is. Radiator - dunno my car came with an aftermarket one, but it still overheats on the track. I guess that means it might be worthwhile. Of course fully synth oil of the correct weight is mandatory in engine, diffs and gearboxes. And get some good brake pads and fluid before hitting the track. HTH, Kot

Agreed they are a bit soft for the track, but after 3 track days mine are still looking remarkably good. So they don't mind the punishment even tho the grip isnt that great. Also, for about the same money the Falken 452s did a fair bit better in one of those Wheels/Motor comparisons. So while i'm happy with the SS595s, i'd go for the 452s based on the mag article.

Thanks man. The top link/upper control arm. So the new upper inner bush is getting squashed in on the side facing the motor. If only i could find that frikken camera....i'll have another look.

Just got an alignment after getting whiteline upper control arm bushes installed. The old right hand side bushes were stuffed and i needed the extra adjustment to pull out some negative camber. The castor on the left side is ok at 3deg13mins, but the right side only is 1deg23mins. I pulled the front wheels off to have a look at the installation, and the right hand outer end of arm looks rotated too far toward the front of the car, and is squashing the inner bush awkwardly. I dont think the castor rod bushes are stuffed - but how do i tell for sure? Any idea what's wrong? Cheers, Kot

Summary: Rang an EBC stockist for a quote on pads and after some back and forth he suggested that DS2500s would be a better package for me, in particular mentioning wear. He doesnt sell Ferodo, so his honesty did him out of a potential sale. FWIW Prices for R32 GTR are: Street/Track; DS2500 front: $295 (UAS) EBC Reds front: $250 DS2500 rear: $260 (UAS) EBC Red rear: $250 Track only (street temps will cause poor initial bite and accelerated wear, but 20% higher friction) DS3000 front: $380 (UAS) EBC Yellow front: $363 DS3000 rear: $380 (UAS) EBC Yellow rear: $300 Rgs, Kot

Good to hear it went well. If you're doing another flush go for the Motul RBF600. It seems to stand up to the punishment well - i dont feel like i need to bleed my brakes after track days since i've been using that. BTW, i suspect my brake problems may have been contributed to by completely stuffed upper control arm bushes... Rgs, Kot

The porsche was running 16inch rims so the rotors couldnt have been as big as the 324mm's i have on the GTR now (with the sumitomo calipers and extention brackets). I think the pad surface area would have been about the same size. The 324s seem a lot better than the 296s, but i still got some wobble. I also measured the rotor temp with the 324's and it was only about 300 deg by the time i measured (so it would have been a bit more on the track itself. None of the DBA4000 thermal paint stripes had gone off tho, so they couldnt have been that hot. Maybe i just remember the porsche better than it really was... maybe porsche use better material in the rotors...??

Its was an 1984 (so the big single piston jobbies, not the "hand of God"'s) 928S auto. Even with the greens they brakes felt nicer than the GTR's dual pistons + DS2500s, which as stated by others should be a much better track pad. Rgs, Kot

In the R32 GTST GB thread SK mentions Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW

I have that UAS upgrade on my car. IMO they're ok, but; - You have to do a lot of modification of the bracket or the hub to get the brackets to bolt on. I was a bit uncomfortable with the amount of material that had to come out. You NEED an angle grinder. John will tell you they are not a easy fit. - You have to bend the buggery out of the copper brake line to get it back in the caliper, as the bracket moves the caliper down as well as out. I was concerned with the amount of bending required. If i were to do another i'd try the ebay ones that just move the caliper radially out rather than out and down. My guess is that they would probably bolt straight on and not require anywhere near as much bending of the brake line. Rgs, Kot

I had no trouble at Wakefield in my 1500kg Porsche running EBC greens - cant say the same about my GTR with DS2500s... but you'll need to careful when drawing any conclusions from that. (Porsche 1:18, GTR 1:17) FWIW EBC reds are marketed for similar usage to DS2500s. Also, I have heard a similar story about a single track day trashing a set of reds, but after my own good experience with greens i think i'll try them next.

FWIW the air-con guy in the group buy section reported that there are no hard parts left to rebuild R32 GTR compressors, and the only option was a new one at around 1500. His supplier had 2 left and couldnt get any more after that.... The 1300 option doesn't sound too bad to me. Cant see the point in changing the condensor tho. I got a second hand compressor from SSS for 260. Its works a bit.... Rgs, Kot

I've done this by myself on the garage floor, elapsed time from getting it out to getting back in ended up being about two weeks....(long story) - it wont take you anyway near that long, but it will probably be a complete BIATCH. Anyway i got some good tips from here so try searching for past threads on the same topic. From what i can remember, - You'll need 2 x 500mm extentions to get the top bolt(s) out. I used some electical tape on the uni joint to stop the socket from flopping down, but still offer some flexibility. - Take the front pipe off - Stubby ratchet ring spanners are you freinds - If you're changing the clutch dont forget to get a clutch aligning tool to make it easy - I had two trolley jacks and wanted a third - Dont forget to block the hose that connects to the rear of the box, or you'll loose all the fluid from the resevoir down - When you're putting it back on, you have to push the box up rotated (cant remember which way) then when you've got it in position rotate it back - i couldnt get it back in if i tried to just lift it straight up. hope some of that helps, Kot