MrStabby

Check this out - used oil analysis - $60 well spent IMO http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=121133 Edit: Dont use these junkies ^^^ they took my $60, then wouldnt give it back after they had difficulty in mailing me the canister to put the oil in... From the link; Copper/Lead/Tin - usually comprise the slipper bearing material in engines, thrust washers in drives and friction discs in transmissions. HTH, Kot

Yep the thingy is a torque wrench. I got a half inch drive Kinchrome (which is a good brand) for $70 at Bunnings, no doubt you could get one cheaper if you shopped around - just get a good brand. Your car will love you for treating her nice.... Next thing you need is one of those .pdf's of the workshop manuals so you can lookup the torque setting of whatever you're doing up. Rgs, Kot

Since one has snapped i'd consider replacing all of them if it were me. Some dumbass has probably overtightened them and they're all suspect. I couldnt believe how much over-tightened stuff i found on my car.... At the very least hold the new stud up against the other old ones to see if the threads "intermesh" perfectly. If they dont it will mean that the stud is stretched and about to fail. FWIW its very important torque you wheel nuts correctly, you can get rotor warpage if you dont. IIRC its 100-110Nm. Also remember to use the "pentagram" order when you tighten them up. HTH, Kot

Rob - how's mine going? Is it back from the welder's? Has it been posted yet? Rgs, Kot

Cant argue with that. If you look at it from an energy perspective, the pad can either transfer the energy into heat or new surface area - ie by wearing out either the rotor or itself. My porsche was roughly equivant to my skyline and never had any brake issues after getting decent fluid and EBC Greens. The GTR is struggling, so next thing i'm trying is the 324mm UAS rotor kit and i'll run some ducting as well. If that doesnt work i'll try the Greens on it. So what do you reakon is the answer? RDA? Nissan? (is nissan exy?) Upgrade? Rgs, Kot

Post up a photo of it. I have a stuffed R32 compressor at home - just cant find my digital camera tho. so i cant post up a pic myself. Rgs, Kot

I believe radiator shops take the tanks off the ends and clear out any blockage by simply pushing metal rods through the core. I havent got a std radiator in mine so i'm not sure whether they can have this treatment. Also, to check the thermostat just put it in a sausepan of warm water on the stove with a thermometer and check that it opens at the right temperature (cant remember what that is tho). Rgs, Kot

Try getting the cracks machined out. Even though the material will be thinner, it will be stronger as the stress will be spread out across the surface rather than being concentrated at the head of the crack. That's the theory at least.. (and why slots are curved - no corners for stress to concentrate in). Edit: Here's what DBA has to say about rotor longetivity http://www.dba.com.au/tech/major_considerations.asp Rgs, Kot

I agree with this response. If you were locking up all 4 then the tyre answer would be correct. You've effectively stuffed the brake balance between front and rear by putting pads with different co-efficient of friction, and therefore different braking force. Putting the same type pads on the rear is definately the first step in troubleshooting this one. EDIT: Actually check the co-efficient of friction specs first. If the MUs are more than a little higher than the ultimates, put the MUs on the back. If there the same, refer to the other posts in this thread... Cheers, Kot

Here's some wild speculation that someone will probably shoot down as BS, but i read somewhere that the thermal conductivity of the pad is an important property in brake operation as it helps even out the temperature on pad and rotor. After frying my front rotors (just warped, no cracks and a blue tinge on the outer of the mating surface) with DS2500's i'm speculating that perhaps they dont conduct heat well and therefore are tougher on rotors than other pads. The outer edge of the rotor gets a lot hotter than the inside edge and the difference in thermal expansion cracks the rotor. About 4000s - http://www.dba.com.au/DBA4000series_specs.pdf says "motorsport applications and premium street performance" for the slotted (not drilled) rotors, but in the box comes a note "warrantee of DBA product is void when used in any form or motorsport" - tossers! Since they've said motorsport applications, i can see why you cant return them based on the Fair Trading law's requirement that goods are 'fit for purpose'. That law overrules anything the manufacturer says. Another thing about 4000s - the vane design appears to have been make to look "wikkid" rather than provide optimal cooling...but maybe i'm just bitchy. Rgs, Kot

Sorry - i should have put more info in my first post. The current compressor works (so the coil/solenoid is ok) its just not producing enough pressure, so it doesnt get that cold. Also, i didnt really want to go second hand, but i might take the chance with a second hander if they're only 10% the price of a new one....

I have :-)

Not a cop. Once my FC is in there I expect it will meet emmissions targets with the right tune and cat, and therefore not hurt the environment (well not any more than a stocker - its all relative). Personally, i'm not that concerned about the legality, as long as it meets emmissions requirements. I will get it engineered if I require it to be formally legal. I will take it for the freebee emmisions check. The original poster said he was a noob therefore may not realise what's legal and what's not. You at least owe it to the guy to mention it. Look out for a brother. Kot (part time tree hugger)

If you've figured that out, then why did you say "They do squat!"? Wouldnt it be more helpful and accurate to say "They do squat until you adjust them". So you have experience with a cbr600, but what about RBs? Have you played with cam timing on the them? Its only "pure crap" with your false interpretation about the gear adjustment - one that you appear to be selecting..... Beer has no need of maps or engineer's opinion as the engineering has already been done and tested many times. The real-world information is well known. Kot

CRD said that my old ceramic stockers should be fine with 14psi with the conservative tune they gave me. So, the boost figure that will be safe for you depends on the state of the tune as well as the condition of the turbos. AFAIK (which isnt much) the standard fuel system is only good for ~280awkw, and after that you'll need higher spec injectors and pump. You probably wouldnt want to go that far with the standard ECU anyway... I guess that doesnt help much... Kot

It might work well but it's irresponsible, illegal, and could cost you up to $22,000 in fines. If you cant afford the cat then leave it as it is until you can. You probably wont be able to justify polluting the environment to the strife either... Sinistagtst - do you think its wise (or even legal) to encourage someone to commit a crime? Kot

Sydneysiders could check out Frosty Auto Air (Phillip Callas, 0418 608 680) he had a group buy at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98646 and charged me the group buy price a few weeks ago, so i guess its still valid. I watched him work and was impressed. After he'd done the work he measured the pressure that the compressor was making and told me that its worn and probably wont be that cold, especially on hot days. He was right, so my cars back there now. Unfortuately he found there are no rebuild parts left for the R32 GTR compressors, so i can get a new one for $1450 (ouch) or he will see if he can find a generic replacement (he had two other R32 customers with the same issue) and wants to be able to offer an option to R32 owners after the last two new compressors are sold out (his supplier is not expecting to get any more). IIRC R33 owners should be ok. A re-gas by itself is not a good idea, the dryer/cleaner should be replaced every two years to keep the system in good condition. Its only $220 so dont be a tight-ass, it might cost you a $1450 compressor down the track... HTH, Kot

Air con guy recommended in on this site cant find any suppliers with rebuild parts for these compressors, and he's been told that there's only two new ones left in Australia and they're $1450 each. He's been told after they're gone there wont be any more. Does anyone have other options? Are they available in Japan (my mate has a Japanese wife, so i should be able to bring one in). Has anyone substituted an alternative compressor? Cheers, Kot

I did 1:18 in the porsche, so not that much slower, but it felt a lot slower with its doughy suspension and auto gearbox...I think i must have been driving better back then. I had already removed the spash guards as i heard that alone should help a bit. I also looked at trying to run cooling ducts - it wont be easy on the driver side tho with all the BOV and intercooler piping - its very tight in there. You dont like the $800 unique autos 324mm front rotor with adapters for the existing calipers? That's the one I think i'll try first, as its more stock like with regular R32 pads and R33 GTR rotors. With the extra $1400 i can get powerfc and dyno tune muhahaha....

Yep that does make me feel worse - ultimates with 160kw and 1:10 - DAMN! I'm heading back in a few weeks to practice... Yeah i see your point but i didnt have any problems with my Porsche 928S - it only had single piston calipers and was running EBC greens. I want a permanent fix.

Both rotors are 32mm, so they're at new spec. I could machine them again, but i would expect them to warp again - dont you think? I can see an 8 piston kit for $2299 - is that the one you mean? That's one way of looking at it, another way could be that you're not accellerating enough between corners ;-) Well i only managed 1:17 in a GTR, so i guess that means i suck.... Were you using street tyres? I'm running cheapo Federal 595SS. What brake pads?

Force = pressure x area, so the force exterted by the caliper would be proportional to the area of the pistons. If the total area of the pistons on both calipers are the same, i dont think there would be that much difference. I think the nissan calipers have equal sized pistons whereas the brembos have uneven sized pistons, so there's some optimisation there, but i have no idea how much effect that would have.

> What colour do you mean by discoloured? A blue tinge on the rotors doesn't mean much. Blue ring toward the outer edge, and some silver spots about 1 cm in diameter. > Check the thermo paint - you will probably find that all three have gone off which is indicative of fairly high temps. AFAIK it doesnt have any. They're stock looking but slotted. No idea what brand, but the slots are conventional looking, so they're not 4000s >What I found happened to my front rotors was they developed fine cracks which looked to me to be around the grain boundaries of the metal. These aren't pretty, but keep an eye on them. Have you tried to locally sand or machine them out? Cracks concentrate stress which makes the crack spread. The rotors may last longer if you can spread the stress over a larger area by machining the crack out. Its sort of counter intuitive in that a thinner section can be stronger.

On my second outing to Wakefield (this time with DS2500s on the front and Motul 600) the brakes stopped ok, but developed a shudder. I've just bled all round and noticed the front rotors are discoloured. Does this mean they went beyond their usable temperature range? If so, i'll probably try some 324mm front rotors with caliper adapters from unique autos. The kit comes with either DBA4000 or 5000 rotors - do the 5000s handle extra heat much better? They're a lot more expensive... tnx, Kot PS - Its an R32 GTR (non-brembo)

If you're asking "why did it fail", that's easy - knocking (pinging) kills motors. When it occurs the pressure inside the combution chamber spikes very high and pummels your pistons, rods, crank, and bearings. The weakest bit then breaks. Filling with lower octane fuel after a tune is opening up a nasty can of whoop-ass on poor Mr Motor... -Kot Wikipedia entry on knocking