MrStabby

I wonder how much torque it takes to get off after 20 years.. I was about 90kg when i tried to do mine, with a pipe on the end of the breaker bar the lever would have been about a meter, so lets say around 900Nm static. Maybe double that to 1800 because i was jumping on it, but the good half inch drive breaker bar gave up at that point. Got a shop to do the Stag....

FWIW i had to replace both rear wheel bearings on mine. One was shot and the other was on its way. The rotors are probably rusted on to the hubs. I reckon you'd notice if it was just the rotor wobbling on the hub rather than a wobbly bearing.

Is using one of the "shootout" modes on a DynoDynamics a solution to getting comparable numbers? Do those modes help at all with cross-dyno variability?

Another way would be to check the pressure inside the airbox on the "outside" of the filter. If it doesnt dip much below atomspheric at full noise, then the duct cant help. You'd have to plumb in a gauge feed tho.

Hopefully this time they will get a punishment that actually makes them stop.... Hasn't Edward Lees been caught before?

I'm sure if you were to try to validate the above three plank demonstration, there would be no difference to the breakage whether there was a qi master present or not. Just like all the tests on psychic ability etc show that its not real either. Its easy to detect this stuff - "if its sounds like magic, its bullshit" After some intro, this shows a martial art master firstly defeating his class of black belts with magic abilities, then only to be whooped by a single MMA fighter. Such is the power of communal self-delusion. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJCA8s06c5U

Good to see this thread is still ticking along. Some things i've learned that are hopefully true; You should have simple (high GI) carbs <2 hours after workout. Glycogen, which is a form of glucose stored in the muscle for energy, is used when you work out and you want to restore it post workout, by spiking your insulin via eating simple carbs. This is done most effectively during that 2 hour window. You also need some protein at the same time. I've seen recommendations from 2:1 to 5:1, carb to protein. (mlr mentioned the carb+protein goodness earlier).

That's definitely a hoax. Careful selection of material would achieve that outcome.

The "War on Drugs" threw the baby out with the bathwater and any study on drugs that were also used recreationally wouldn't get funded. People are now starting to look at it again for conditions like PTSD (MDMA) and depression (psilocybin). eg "The study on this page will determine the efficacy of psilocybin in treatment-resistant depression" - its reached its funding goal; https://www.crowdrise.com/timferriss

I've heard a couple of people (one was a largish workshop) say you should never run without a thermostat because it has an effect on the water pump's operation. Apparently running a gutted thermostat is ok tho (if you're not worried about the startup/cool running implications)...

Pulling it it will longer bolts will probably just break whatever is stopping it, which i'd say is the splines on the clutch plate. The un-splined bit of the input shaft will be thru the clutch plate, but that doesn't mean it will just slide in. Make sure you have the centerline of the crank as closely lined up to the centerline of the input shaft as you can. Ie the box should be in the "as fully installed" position. Then its wobbling and twisting (to get the splines to mesh spline in groove, rather than spline to spline/groove to groove) and lots of persistence/swearing to get it in.

OP - please tell us you're not using the stock ECU!

The reason modern 1000s are being recommended is that there is really no downside, since they respond well at low pulsewidths so idle etc are fine. For MAFs you can tune past the 300kw limit, but in that range the ECU is guessing what the fuelling should be, so you're risking over or under fuelling. Nismo MAFs bolt in and are good for ~370awkw, which is about that the 2530s make on pump, so would be a good option.

Stop being cruel. OP - do you know where the squeak is from? Is it the pedal?

Yeah you have the wrong wheels - sell them and get something with a sensible offset. There's no other solution. As an added bonus you wont have to worry about getting defected any time a cop pulls you over.

The BNR34 rims are +30 offset so stay well within the guards. I use them on my 32.

It doesnt make sense that it only does it when you're driving. Follow Dark26's excellent advice, just make sure you press the pedal as hard as you would when driving. Also don't discount that it could even be the new lines.

You've probably worked it out small screw at the door handle side on the inside - remove with a phillips head Ok both sides are missing the screws. I can see a ~5mm hole in the trim - are the screws really short and stubby and screw directly into the trim metal? I'll see if i can find them in FAST. use a long screwdriver under the trim and lift it up - will save it from flexing the trim or bending it there are metal clips that hold it down but they will open and allow the trim to come up the 4 white things you can see hold the felt bushes against the window, not part of the securing of the trim Mine has 2 black felt bits for that. Looks like my clips for holding it down are plastic. While its out clean the felt bushes as this is what causes the glass scratching up and yes for install just slide it under at small angle and push the trim back into place do the small screw up. Thanks.

Since getting the box out and in is a big PITA, as is being stranded, I would definitely go for the Nismo pivot. Box is a bitch to get back in, you need to rotate it (IIRC to get the starter motor lump out of the way) then rotate it back so you cant bolt it up. Maybe i put something about that in my DIY...cant remember.

You mean my HSK balancer (check the picture closely).

The trims at the top of the door that touch the glass. Any tips for removal? Looks like there's four white plastic clips that hold them on, but i've slightly bent it trying to get it off. For installation, do i just push it down then push it forward to slide it under the rear vision mirror assembly? Seems like both of mine were a bit loose at the trailing edge of the door, so im wondering if i'm missing a clip...

Ghetto? Sandpaper taped to glass. Did a Holden 202 oil pump housing that way when i was a povo student. Actually worked well.

If NSW, something <15mm difference in diameter from the stock R32 tyres, which are 225/50/16 = 631.4mm diam. 245/35/18 and 255/35/18 look ok, but the standard R34 tyre size (245/40/18) is too big - its 20.9mm different at 653.2mm diam.

The 265/35/18 Dunlop 03Gs im running are rated by the manufacturer as fine for 10.5s (but that is the limit). I checked a few others and they were also ok, but OP will need to do his own checks since he's running 19s. Agree with comment about getting the right wheel tho - my rims are +25 and rub on the outside of the guard liners near the guard lip at the track. Yeah its a 32, but does a 33 have 28mm more space?

I asked for an exhaust shop recommendation in the NSW forum - if you search you should find it.