MrStabby

They are 255/35 on R34 GTR 9 inch rims, which is my old track setup. I was going to use them until they wore out and then put something like Hankook RS-3s on for street. Here's what was left

Occasionally the car magazines do back to back reviews including track work. No doubt the tyres evolve all the time so any review is only relevant for a period of time, but my impression of the P Zeros is that they're a good tyre that's generally up with the leaders (but not THE leader) and way overpriced compared to their equals. Of course any up to date comparisons may disprove that impression either way.

R888s cold at 22psi all round. A warm up lap or two then destroyed one of the tyres as i started to push a little. The instructors said that the tyre failed because 22psi is too low and I probably pulled one side off the rim. Said I need start on at 26psi, heat them up, then bleed back to the desired hot pressure. Is that a thing? I haven't heard of it before.

Only the engine, flywheel and pressure plate spin when in neutral. Clutch plate, input shaft, driveshaft etc are still. Sorry OP - I didnt read carefully enough and missed it was in neutral. So agree it sounds like out of balance flywheel or pressure plate.

Did you mark the driveshaft flanges before you separated them, then put them back at the same orientation? If not, try disconnecting, turn through 90 degress, then reconnect.

Yeah there's a donut shaped bump stop that sits around the piston under that boot. You can buy new ones and IIRC the ID seemed like the important dimension when i replaced the ones in my teins. I went to the local pedders and went through their box of odd used but serviceable ones, choose something that looked about right then trimmed it down to the right height with a hack saw. Loud squishy noise could be a mix of air and oil going thru the valves since some of the oil has leaked out. Any signs of leaking? Anyway after you pull it out move the piston fully out then fully in to how it feels.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/johann-hari/the-real-cause-of-addicti_b_6506936.html?ir=Australia tl;dr drug addition is correlated to life circumstances, in particular, connection to a community. Eg lots of Vietnam vets used heroin, most came back and just stopped.

Not really sure. I just got the whiteline adjustables. Front is set to full soft and rear is full hard, again to reduce understeer.

FYI, when you make the front springs harder in increases the tendency to understeer. GTRs are worse than GTSTs due to the extra weight at the front due to the 4WD kit. If you find it understeers too much, reduce the front spring rate, then play with anti-roll bars. Similar to springs, you want to reduce the rate at the end where you need more grip, or increase the rate at the other end. FWIW i've gone from 10/8 to 8/6 to 7/6. If i had your car the first thing i would do is put 10s in the front.

Standard practice is to remove front driveshaft when using a 2WD dyno. +1 to get a different tuner.

13kg is huge - on what basis did you select that rate?

Its going to be interesting to see how the ethics are programmed in. Eg. if i can't brake/swerve to avoid both, do i take out the baby stroller or the parents?

My guess would be that a properly designed stiffer actuator would come with a larger diameter diaphragm so that the opening a closing forces would still be balanced.

You can see if the o2 is working with CONSULT, but if you cant get your hands on one of those just assume its dead, replace it, and reset the ECU so the long term fuel trims are re-established. Change one thing at a time and do the consumption calc over 3 tanks so its a bit more accurate (ie sum the liters and kms from three tanks together then do the calc). Once you've done three tanks with the new o2, try 98 and recalculate over the next 3 tanks. Dont forget to check the tyre pressure - 2psi over what the placard says is an ok start. Dont run too thick an oil. 5w-40 or similar should work well.

If its the same as the M35 (which would make sense as they're both VQ motors) Gearbox is RE5R05A Gearbox fluid: Nissan matic J (or Nissan matic S, or Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, $16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, $10perL)) Auto trans fluid change interval: 60,000kms IIRC there's about 4L in the pan, but about 10L in the entire transmission. I've just dumped the 4L three times with around 5000kms in between. Fluid was putrid at the start tho.

Nice, i like it a lot. Whats with the springs on the headers? Is there a joint there and the idea is you unhook the springs to get it apart?

This. Search the DIYs for it. BTW opening up the plug gap makes it harder for the spark to jump, so if you're troubleshooting a missfire at max torque you would close it up.

AFAIK the info in the first post is still generally correct, but; - oils use a mix of different base stocks (eg, minerals used to carry additives). The first post info is for the highest percent basestock - the mix will change over time - you need to judge an oil based on its basestock + additive mix So, I wouldn't worry too much about if the basestock has been tweaked a bit. If you're using 300V or Mobil 1 or some other top tier oil it should be as good as ever.

Nissan says 5000kms OCI for the VQ25DET (i have updated the info in the Uber info thread). For me, Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 was ready for changing at 5500. Mobil 1 0W-40 was still good for further use at 6000kms.

I've added a link to this thread into the first post of the M35 Info Uber thread

Easily possible with an energy polariser and/or prayer (as long as you get the right god).

Everything's back together with a new motor from Scotty. However, when i open the door for step 6 of the reset procedure, there's no window movement so i'm guessing it hasn't taken.

For high accuracy with an IR gun you need to set the emissivity for the material being measured, and will read differently depending on light conditions. Might also be a distance effect? I'm not sure how much difference all that makes tho. Do you think the values seem about right?

Thanks - was easy once the door handle screws were revealed.