MrStabby

FYI, when you make the front springs harder in increases the tendency to understeer. GTRs are worse than GTSTs due to the extra weight at the front due to the 4WD kit. If you find it understeers too much, reduce the front spring rate, then play with anti-roll bars. Similar to springs, you want to reduce the rate at the end where you need more grip, or increase the rate at the other end. FWIW i've gone from 10/8 to 8/6 to 7/6. If i had your car the first thing i would do is put 10s in the front.

Standard practice is to remove front driveshaft when using a 2WD dyno. +1 to get a different tuner.

13kg is huge - on what basis did you select that rate?

Its going to be interesting to see how the ethics are programmed in. Eg. if i can't brake/swerve to avoid both, do i take out the baby stroller or the parents?

My guess would be that a properly designed stiffer actuator would come with a larger diameter diaphragm so that the opening a closing forces would still be balanced.

You can see if the o2 is working with CONSULT, but if you cant get your hands on one of those just assume its dead, replace it, and reset the ECU so the long term fuel trims are re-established. Change one thing at a time and do the consumption calc over 3 tanks so its a bit more accurate (ie sum the liters and kms from three tanks together then do the calc). Once you've done three tanks with the new o2, try 98 and recalculate over the next 3 tanks. Dont forget to check the tyre pressure - 2psi over what the placard says is an ok start. Dont run too thick an oil. 5w-40 or similar should work well.

If its the same as the M35 (which would make sense as they're both VQ motors) Gearbox is RE5R05A Gearbox fluid: Nissan matic J (or Nissan matic S, or Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, $16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, $10perL)) Auto trans fluid change interval: 60,000kms IIRC there's about 4L in the pan, but about 10L in the entire transmission. I've just dumped the 4L three times with around 5000kms in between. Fluid was putrid at the start tho.

Nice, i like it a lot. Whats with the springs on the headers? Is there a joint there and the idea is you unhook the springs to get it apart?

This. Search the DIYs for it. BTW opening up the plug gap makes it harder for the spark to jump, so if you're troubleshooting a missfire at max torque you would close it up.

AFAIK the info in the first post is still generally correct, but; - oils use a mix of different base stocks (eg, minerals used to carry additives). The first post info is for the highest percent basestock - the mix will change over time - you need to judge an oil based on its basestock + additive mix So, I wouldn't worry too much about if the basestock has been tweaked a bit. If you're using 300V or Mobil 1 or some other top tier oil it should be as good as ever.

Nissan says 5000kms OCI for the VQ25DET (i have updated the info in the Uber info thread). For me, Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 was ready for changing at 5500. Mobil 1 0W-40 was still good for further use at 6000kms.

I've added a link to this thread into the first post of the M35 Info Uber thread

Easily possible with an energy polariser and/or prayer (as long as you get the right god).

Everything's back together with a new motor from Scotty. However, when i open the door for step 6 of the reset procedure, there's no window movement so i'm guessing it hasn't taken.

For high accuracy with an IR gun you need to set the emissivity for the material being measured, and will read differently depending on light conditions. Might also be a distance effect? I'm not sure how much difference all that makes tho. Do you think the values seem about right?

Thanks - was easy once the door handle screws were revealed.

Ok - ill check the motor - how does the door handle come off? Do I lever off the faux wood trim to reveal screws?

Drivers window has been playing up in that auto wind up would get to 2/3rds up, then reverse back down. Holding the button would make it power though with a tiny pause. Now the window is stuck at 1/3rd up and wont move in either direction. I guess the first step is to check all the fuses in the drivers side footwell - unless someone knows the right one. Anything else i should look at?

Standard GTR or GTST injectors? Also - dirty injectors may only flow 2/3rds of clean injectors...

IIRC the workshop manual says the factory style clamps are single use...

My guess - easy way to get the balance about right.

That's great - just keep a close eye on the new ones.

The tl;dr version is rose joints work better, but don't last and are not legal for street. If you're mostly street and the rose joints are shagged you're probably better off going for something like the hardrace bushed adjustable radius rods. Might as well check all the ball joints and other bushes at the same time and fix anything thats stuffed. That stuff doesn't affect the rotors, but the whole hub assembly gets a bit mobile and can cause shudder that feels pretty much the same as rotor shudder to me.

Dont forget to check radius rod bushes...

That's porn, but the blue should be darker.