MrStabby

Nulon Synth ATF and Valvoline Synth ATF both have multiple Nissan certs. I'd use one of those.

Oil sample #3 looking good at 7500kms. Oil is Mobil 1 0W-40. Viscosity is good, TBN is good, just some oxidation. I have noticed the temp gauge which is usually steadfast at about 2/5s has taken a few trips up to 3/5s for no apparent reason recently, and its been very cold in Sydney. Ill take a look at the cooling system and probably run the next to 7500.

My track oil temp is under control. IIRC Mobil say M1 is ok with respect to degradation at 150 deg C. Agree that oil temp has a very important impact on oil life, as does quality of the oil. So whether you need to dump after a track day depends on those and other factors. As you say, if you dont test the oil you're just guessing, but thats fine too. I've been doing oil testing on the Stagea, and will do on the GTR next time.

I do scaling factor for track day kays - so any kms done on the track are multiplied by 5. So if i do 100kms at the track, that's equivalent to 500kms of regular driving. At this stage i have no evidence if this is sensible or not...

+1, or even a flow check/pressure drop measurement of each. Downside could be lower bang for buck than some other mod, when using smaller non-shuffling turbos. Piggaz - would you do this on a car with stock turbos? -7s?

Only thing I would change for the track is slightly harder springs as Josh suggested (surprise surprise, he knows his shit). but 10/6 is a good compromise for street comfort; the mrs doesn't mind riding in the GTR now - apart from the noise! also they respond to adjustments very predictably. I had some understeer which was easy to dial out by tightening up the rear shocks by one 'click' I'd love to know the theory behind how those spring rates work. Given who suggested it to you and the fact that i've heard of it before I guess i must be missing something. I've gone 10/8 -> 8/6 -> 7/6 on my 32 GTR and quite like the current setup so will leave it at that. From what I understand 10/6 should be an understeer monster, and shock adjustments would only help on short corners or right at the beginning of sweepers. Didnt Nismo go to same rate front and back to try to dial out understeer? Can anyone enlighten me?

I would just take to old ones along to see if there's anything generic that matches closely enough at a supacheap/repco etc. If there's nothing there try a suspension shop. A little smaller in OD wouldn't be a problem if there a stiffer material than the stock bit.

Geoff - thats awesome - you should put that up in the DIY section: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/ My DIY for 32 GTR is in my sig.

Oi! No nit picking or we'll have to start talking about moments of inertia.

In the 32 GTR i get full coolant out the bleeder by just topping up the radiator. BOVs are designed to vent off the air that would otherwise slow the turbo down after the throttles shut. So if you have one you should produce boost more quickly after gear changes.

AFAIK there's no upside to using a smaller diameter clutch, so i'm guessing everyone's using the 10. That's the one i'm using.

Too thick for an RB with standard bearing tolerances. You'll just be pushing a lot of oil through the filter bypass and relief valves.

And the twin C spec coppermix twin plate: Standard pull is : 3002B-RS599 ( After 93 ) coppermix twin plate: Standard push is : 3002A-RS594 ( Until 93 ) coppermix twin plate: C-spec pull for GTR32 is : 3002B-RR598-C ( After Feb 93 ) coppermix twin plate: C-spec push for GTR32 is : 3002A-RR593-C ( Until Feb 93 )

Yeah rear toe out will make the rear unstable. So get the slop out then set it to zero. You said "rear hicas arm" but there's only one hicas arm each side (no front/rear) so double check your understanding about the arms. There is a ball joint that looks like a tie rod end on the outer end of the hicas arm, dont know whats on the inside but i'm guessing its similar. If any of the other ball joints are loose get them replaced too and do them all at once, before you get the next alignment. The KPI / included angle statement sound bogus because that would mean you have two bent hubs. If you're anywhere near Tempe go to Heasmans.

Some would say they are the single most important thing to consider when selecting oil. They specify the range of viscosity, eg a -30 can be 9.3-12.5 and a -40 can be 12.5-16.3 at 100 degC.

Solid center clutches are much more prone to damaging gearboxes. The Nismo has a sprung center, so TCO may be cheaper once you consider the gearbox repair costs... Are the Jim Berrys solid or sprung center?

Since its the VQ motor, you could try the Stagea or V series skyline sub-forums if you get nothing here.

The latency setting for your injectors will be wrong. Google to see what it should be. If you cant find it try reducing it in say 100ms increments until you get the idle in the ballpark then make smaller changes up/down to zero in. You should see a lot of change in mixture at idle and a much smaller change in mixture, possibly too small to read, at WOT. Also, i'd be a bit concerned about the abilities of a tuner who didn't want to use Nistune.

I got shocks through rhdjapan; Front right kyb NSF9420R Front left kyb NSF9420L If the springs have sagged maybe you could get them reset? EDIT: just checked their site and they dont have them. Maybe it was greenline or nengun or ?? I got them from.

Yeah i think we was saying that like gearboxes, which are pretty much all the same in how they work, the factory, Nismo, Cusco etc LSDs are also pretty much the same. He can setup the rear to be tighter, however, since the after market ones are larger/beefier they will last longer.

No warrantee on the shop build? Any idea what caused the failure? What oil were you using and how far up the dipstick was it filled to? What was the driving conditions when it went? (track/dragstrip/street fang/street cruise, rpm)

Yeah i reckon its something like this below - area under the curve is the same, but peak load/force is much lower with a soft (sprung) clutch. Engineering 101.

I'd say about 10cm from death.

Notes! Please post any corrections/additions. (FWIW I was the guy in the Exodus T shirt, Black 32 GTR with R34 wheels). Clutches with solid centers should not be used as they put a lot more strain on the gearbox. He reinforced this point many times, seems to be a common issue. Of course there are full race corner cases where they make sense, but you'll know why you're getting one if you're in that situation. Likewise clutch plates should have a marcel spring (which is between the friction material pads, so the clutch plate is a pad/marcel spring/pad sandwich) You have to run a clutch in. If you don't, they can melt onto the flywheel, which means it wont disengage. Terry will happily make mantle pieces out of stuff you break spectacularly Other than solid center clutches, the other thing that stuffs gearboxes is user brutality. Solid mounting of diff cradles also increases rigidity in a way that's detrimental (for the gearbox? or drive train more generally?), so make especially sure you use a sprung center clutch if you have a solidly mounted diff cradle. Clutches dissipate heat and get hot When you install a new clutch, which should come with lubricant. Make sure you lube; clutch pivot/fork, fork/throw out bearing, input shaft splines. If you didn't get lube use never seize black moly disulphide. Use oil, not grease, for the standard bronze spigot bearing. If you have a needle roller spigot use HTB grease. Showed an input shaft that had its splines severely damaged by a solid center clutch in 6 months. No clutch pedal should be heavy these days, due to new materials, spring pivot points, and if required, changing diameter of the hydraulic cylinders. Mineral oils are better than synthetics in situations where you want friction (sychros, LSDs). Change gearbox oils regularly, say every year. Some of the oil will evaporate and escape out the breather, so connect a gearbox catch can that drains back down the breather. (was this in the context of smurfs blood or more generally?). If your multi-plate clutch doesn't rattle, then it doesn't have its clearance set correctly EDIT: Also; - LOCTITE 20166 Flange Sealant highly recommended for sump gaskets etc. Also known as Loctite 5900. 20166 is the part number. Available from Repco. - If you want an extended sump mod for your GTR use Leon from Performance Metalcraft. - Both R32 and R33 attessas have no preload. You can test this for yourself by just using your hand to spin the front drive shaft. He recommends you remove the drive shaft on R32s as well as R33s when using a 2WD dyno. Just removing the fuse in a 32 will stop drive to the front wheels but wont stop wear on the attessa plates