MrStabby

IIRC Nismo did some equal rate front and rear spring setups for R32 GTRs to try to reduce understeer, but 30mm rear bar...wow. I'm running 7kg front, 6kg rear with whiteline adjustable ARBs set to soft front, hard rear. Still has understeer, but i quite like the setup now.

Dont speak to whoever said that again Solid center clutches are tough on gearboxes, and i guess generally twin plates would more often be solid center than singles BCOZ RACE. The Nismo twin is not solid center....

I've bought a DIY kit from http://www.glasspolish.com.au but havent got around to trying it yet. The window guides in both doors have scratched the glass on the GTR

Have you read this http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440409-ls2-coil-on-plug-mod/

AFAIK the NPC 250mm organic is only good for 300kw. Its suited to driving in traffic, not for getting smashed doing drag launches. Exedy HD are similar style of clutch. The coppermix single in that link looks to be a similar thing to the NPC organic. What is the car used for? Did you tell NPC what you'd be using the car for?

tric - any oiling mods in your gearboxes? I hear that Award Diff and Gearbox here in Sydney do *something*. Might also be worth trying something like Liqui Moly Mos2 gear oil additive as a hack as it should help if there's any starvation causing the gears to fall out of sliding hydrodynamic into boundary lubrication. Edit: are your failures as you just start to gun it in the gear, or after you've been gunning it in the gear for a while?

Ask on http://forum.nistune.com/ They'd have to both be type 4 boards, so a neo engined (S2?) stag.... IIRC you can load some auto ECU images onto some previously manual ECUs, but get specifics from the Nistune forum. They'll probably want the part number from the ECU.

100% right. DoseV, since you dont know what oil is in there now, contact the shop that did the service to find out what they use. If that doesn't work just get an average price dino first while you're trialling viscosities to see what works. Maybe assume they used a ?w-40 and try a ?w-50 first. Once you've settled on a viscosity that works, step up to a good full synth and go the full 5000kms change interval.

10psi/1000 is quoted a lot, but i don't know where it came from so i just checked the RB26 manual, it says; Idle: 21psi 2000rpm: 43psi 6000rpm: 65psi all for oil at 80 degrees C Might well be different for the RB25 tho given lifters, VCT etc.

IF the lifter problem is due to gunk (no idea if that's a thing), then that's an indicator you need a better oil, or you need to perform more frequent oil changes. IMO you should reconsider going to a synthetic, as they perform much better at higher temps and tubos = high temps. Also, since synthetics are considered a premium product they have better additive packs. Of course, you dont want to shell out for a synthetic while you trying different viscosities where you will probably dump the oil early. I would choose a viscosity based on the lower of; 1. the 10psi/1000rpm hot guideline 2. what keeps your lifters quiet Once you've settled on viscosity, change over to a nice full synth of the same hot viscosity (the higher number). Note that the Xw-Y notation describes ranges - 40 weight spec is 12.5-16.3, and 50 weight spec is 16.3-21.9 so the heaviest 40 and the lightest 50 are the same viscosity at 100 deg C. Quality oils used at sensible change intervals will slowly clean the inside of your motor (and lifters) so you may find that #2 above comes down as the lifters clean up.

Godfathers of thrash. Such a shame they got this vocalist back instead of keeping Rob Dukes.

That M1 is 17.5 at 100DegC and the Penrite is 19.6 at 100DegC, so yeah the Mobil is a bit thinner. Pretty unlikely you'll feel it with the butt dyno, but if the oils are around the same price, sure, give it a go. If the engine still runs well, has good oil pressure and doesn't consume oil i'd try a 40 and see how it goes. Keep an eye on the dipstick to see if it starts using. Often the first fill after you change oils is not a good indicator and you should try at least two fills to see how it settles down. FWIW I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my cars, but might switch to Nulon to support the local product. Nulon 10W-40 is one of the thicker 40s, so you could try that.

I said something like that earlier in this thread and IIRC an mx5 guy said they were shit on his car too... So i guess they're just shit. Cheap tho.

For a street car just get a good 100cell cat. You should at least make some effort to keep your car legal and not pollute the environment way more than you have to. Decat will mean you have much blacker exhaust smoke under power (which is a give away to the cops) and your rear bar will be dirty from it.

They're probably quoting based on Nissan parts bought from a local Nissan dealer. I wouldnt go buying any coilpacks until you have confirmation from someone who knows. that; - there really is a coilpack problem - that the issue cant be addressed by a clean up and new set of plugs (there are some DIYs and a good video on here - so search for those) EDIT; Doh - what jiffo said

Interesting. Does the Micra's manual mention anything about e10? I wonder if Nissan are meeting their legal responsibilities. Remember they will often turn down warrantee requests that they are legally obligated to provide, hoping you are ignorant of the law and accept their decision. You could even make that case that if during the purchase process you were not specifically informed that the car cannot run on e10 then you were sold the vehicle under false pretences, as it would be a perfectly reasonable expectation that the car can run on e10. The consumer law is strong, so its worth investigating. I've been mostly using the United 95 octane e10 in the Stagea for about 20,000kms....

I guess PranK is probably aware of all these ideas, but might be worth a quick scan from "Techniques to defeat annoying people in your community" down. https://medium.com/@harper/crowdsourcing-isnt-broken-5681da92b109

I reckon ?W-40 is the best choice. AFAIK the only two valid reasons to go thicker are; 1. To bring oil pressure up to spec in a worn motor 2. To hack around running your oil too hot. Instead of #2, get an oil cooler that will keep your oil below 120 Deg, and use a full synth 40.

What's the rating on the clutch? If its just a regular organic single then i think they're usually rated to more like 250kw, but organics are ok with a bit of riding unlike other clutch types. No slip at WOT means its not worn out, and its handling the power.... Doesn't sound like a hydraulic problem. Weird.

Some jetlagged idiot (me) thought he could reverse back and braille touch the kerb with the rear wheels in a narrow street - didn't see the slim tree back there and crunched a rear taillight...

Limiting factor will be the ceramic turbines on the turbos. Most recommend about 15 psi, but they can blow up at stock boost with age, so its a crap shoot. Tune on ECU has to match injectors and MAF. If either of those have changed it will need a retune.

Interesting - if i look at this video on how to fix coilpacks, it shows just the spring with no contact at 6:05->6:30, and the spring end is identical to the ones i got from Nissan. So it looks like my coilpacks are non standard. Not sure if i should just pull out the existing spring/contact and replace it with the new springs.... Its a great video BTW

The springs don't come with a new contact Also, looks like a shitfight to get the springs onto the contacts....

Nice to have the part number - i just ordered 10 (they come in a 10 pack) from Nissan and should get them Friday morning. Skidz if you get stuck i'll sell you a few for my buy price (it was $40 something for the 10, so less than $5 each).