MrStabby

- Do most modern aftermarket head units come with ISO male connectors at the back? - So, when fitting a modern head unit to a modern car you typically need a single harness adapter, eg nissan to ISO female - When fitting an older head unit you'd typically need two harness adapters, eg a nissan to iso female, then iso male to pioneer/JVC/whatever - Are all the <$300 no brand Android head units dogshit? tnx

I have a battery isolator, so AFAIK there's no benefit to a trickle charger, right?

Ended up getting a NS40ZLX after confirming the cables just reach by using an old NS40ZL from the Stagea. The bonnet is still well clear of the positive terminal, so only slightly ghetto.

Century have confirmed the NS40ZX has been discontinued

That might be the NS40ZX (410 CCA) which is not listed on Century's website any more. I've sent them a message to ask if its been discontinued. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/car-batteries The NS40Z is the 330CCA version, which is 'D' polarity (ie positive on the left, and you install it 'backwards') and small post. They still have the NS40ZLX MF ('C' polarity version @ 410 CCA). There are a few web listings of the NS40ZX around so i'll see if i can find one.

I find that the 370CCA NRMA 2383 batteries don't seem to last very long considering that most of the time the battery is isolated as the car only gets intermittent use. Any suggestions? Is there a good lithium option? Am I just imagining the short life or is 370CCA a bit small?

Mine has the factory cd/tape/radio system that's integrated into the fascia, so its different to yours (there's no DIN slots). Got any more info on that touch screen setup? I know a little about android having installed lineageOS on a motorola.

I'm thinking of getting https://sinergymotorsports.com.au/product/stereo-fascia-nissan-v35-series-1/ but at $535 i'm wondering if there are any other options. Also, is there anything else i need to know about removing the factory satnav/stereo unit?

FYI for info on the phillips/JIS/Posidriv/Torx/etc options check out https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives Looks like the 'Vessel' brand does JIS, anyone have other suggestions on brand (or shop)?

Android / iphone software is 'hobdrive'. The ebay link to the wifi obd2 dongle is now dead, so its a lucky dip to find one that will work. I'd go for wifi over bluetooth, and I have a weird memory that getting something with VW Golf support is more likely to work... or maybe i just made that up.

TIL (and had mind blown) that what look like phillips head screw/bolt heads are actually JIS, which is less 'spikey'. Am I the only one ignorant of this?

Lumleys said they wouldnt cover the car at all if it was ever tracked...

Looks like Famous are no longer an option. I'll get quotes from Shannons and Enthusiast, is there anyone else i should try? What are people getting for agreed value for a decent 32 GTR?

The Fenix one i got is a perfect fit. Sorry I don't have the part number. Have you tried asking them? No shroud - its on the Fenix in the car.

Is there a better way to report this?

Are you in Sydney? If so ill sell you a near new OEM Nissan one (3 months use) for $200. Otherwise Fenix do one for around $400 (can't remember where i got it). The OEM is about $800 new, so the Fenix is a much better option (its thicker). I was stuffing around with radiators until i found the problem was with the fan clutch

FWIW my M35 cranks hard even when it doesn't have enough electric power to start. First thing i'd do it try a jump start after double checking battery connections and charge. IIRC the battery should be 12.6 volts when fully charged.

Use synthetic fluid when you re-fill. Its got a higher boiling/flash point. Just got some new track tyres so I want to try luddenham.

Check for loose / leaky hoses, in particular the ones to the fuel pressure regulators. When they've hardened a bit with age the boost can blow them off. In mine, the fuel trims maxed out when i had leaks. If you can measure vac at idle, i'll check mine so you can compare.

Its time for a new set of tyres so i guess i'll try the AR1s. Ebay can deliver 265/35/18s for around $300each, but is there a shop in Sydney that will supply them for something close to that?

Looks like its normal to see 0 in hobdrive. My issue was fixed with new coilpacks.

I see from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465219-m35-stagea-running-like-crap/ That the MAF signal is 0 and i'm getting the same thing. Is anyone getting non-zero?

My VQ25DET was needing about 0.5-1L of 0W-40 per 5000kms, but the cam cover gaskets have been changed (pink slip fail) so hopefully that consumption will reduce (not that the garage floor showed more than the occasional drop of leakage..).

Engine is running poorly, and OBD said that the signal from the MAF was 0.0. I replaced the MAF insert (22680-6N21A), and its still 0.0. Inlet temp sensor works with old and new insert. So either the problem is; 1. ODB misreporting MAF signal, and there's some other issue that doesn't trigger a CEL 2. new MAF is dead 3. wiring issue I'm starting with looking at #3.There's 5 pins on the connector to the MAF. I've measured resistance to ground with ignition off, and then voltage with ignition on. Pin - resistance - volts w/ Ign on 1 - infinite - 5 2 - 111 - 12 3 - 0 - 0 4 - infinite - 5 5 - infinite - 0 Does anyone know the MAF pinout? Where is the ECU? I've got an ECU pinout from here, so i could check the MAF to ECU wiring.

Could be just the oil from the crankcase ventilation system. All those pipes will be covered with an oily film on the inside and its normal. However, if there is a boost leak of any significance there you would expect to be down on power and see black smoke out the exhaust. Quality pipe clamps (a type that are meant to be reused) are a worthwhile upgrade over the factory stuff.