MrStabby

FYI Mobil 1 0w-40 is doing well (confirmed with UOA) in my VQ25DET @5500kms, whereas SynPower 5W-40 had sheared out of grade @5000kms. However, that's not really too much of an issue as oils down to 20 weights (dafuq?) are specified by Nissan. Which Liqui Moly are you using?

Did you just halve your power target?

If the take up point is close to the floor, adjust it higher and see if that helps with 2 and 3. What do you mean by backlash?

Have they been cleaned or just flow tested? Typically you would clean first then flow test. Some ECUs let you tweak individual injectors to compensate for variation. If you're running an rb26, put the highest flowing injector in #6 as the stock plenum tends to feed more air to that one. Nismo plenum fixes that issue.

A1RMs will be a bit abrasive on rotors and not have a lot of bite at street temps. They're a street/track crossover pad. No-one can suggest a good pad until you tell us what the use case is and a bit about the car.

Handbrake cable? Have you taken the rotor off? IIRC you will see the connecion once the rotor's off.

Heavier hammer with the punch?

Photo please. Duncan is talking about taking the nut of the shock piston (which is how you get it apart) but you said you want to replace them with other bolts, which sounds like you want to replace the piston.... Not making sense to me

Re filters, this is from the NM35 uber thread - the Ryco's are pretty much identical. Oil filter is Ryco Z436 or Z445 : Nismo (Veruspeed) 15208-RN010 : K&N: HP-1008 : Amsoil Ea012 z445 - seal diameter 63mm, height - 65mm, seam diameter - 68mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm z436 - seal diameter 64mm, height - 66mm, seam diameter - 69.50mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm

No, blind-e is saying that the upper control arm wont get any closer to the rim if you lower. There may be other issues with lowering. Since you have issues with your current setup you need to fix that before you start potentially introducing more issues. Read through the Wheel Sizes and Offsets thread to try and work out what should work with your car.

^ what he said. Certainly sounds like fuel surge. Might be worth checking the fuel pump cradle is correctly locked into its bracket and that the sock is present.

FWIW, rim touching on the wishbone means the fitment is illegal, also if the rim protrudes from the guard that's illegal too (if you're concerned about that, it can void insurance).

FWIW the automotive engineer that gave a talk to SAU NSW said he would not approve any type of spacer.

Less than two weeks. Chose the DHL delivery option which was ~$30, hinges were $20 each.

A little; - We have a shorter OCI in Australia compared to Euro due to the sulphur in our fuel - You shouldn't let your oil temp go over 120 degrees - If your oil is overheating, using a heavier grade is a reasonable hack - The standard weights for RBs is 5/10W-30/40 - Running heavy oils will increase the risk of oil starvation, as they take longer to drain back to the sump - (if I understand right) Liqui Moly MOS2 can help with keeping your engine alive if you stave oil. On the wikipedia page for molybdenum disulfide; "MoS2 is often a component of blends and composites that require low friction. A variety of oils and greases are used, because they retain their lubricity even in cases of almost complete oil loss" So that adds up. EDIT: more info on MOS2 for oil nerds at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly-basics/

FYI, i just did my hinges. ~$110 including delivery from RHDJapan for all 4 hinges. Numbers on the packages were; Right side top: H0400-01U00 55981 (140612) Right side bottom: H0401-01U00 55980 (140418) Left side top: H0401-01U00 55983 (141014) Left side bottom: H0400-01U00 55982 (140922) From looking at them, i think all you need to order is 2 x H0400-01U00, and 2x H0401-01U00, ie right top and left bottom are identical. I haven't come across an instance where the XXXXX-YYYYY number is insufficient to fully describe the part, and that appears to be the case here too. No idea what the other numbers are. I did it this way; Remove front bar Remove front guards Leave doors closed and replace locks one at a time Check door hang and adjust hinge to body bolts while propping door up to correct height Use torque wrench on bolts, they are not strong...

You mean power induced understeer, right? At the moment i'm balancing that with an ATTESSA tweaker, but i'm guessing i would be able to push more power to the front in the corner and therefore use more power overall, if i had a front LSD?

Piggaz - are they only useful once you get up a certain power level? My 32 has 300awkw and it doesnt feel like i have front end grip issues, but maybe i just dont know what i'm missing? Or to ask the question another way, when are they worthwhile, and when are they poor value for the cost?

Old fartz may think that's ricer talk...

^ yep, or if you're a real tight ass at least take the other rear out and take it through one stroke in and out, then compare the force required to do that with the force required to do the same on the new one. If its much different then obviously the other rear is already stuffed too.

IMO the biggest problem with R32 ATTESSA is its tune, not the response speed. The ATTESSA ECU takes fore/aft accelerometer and slip signals to push power to the front (which works fine, as we see in straight line response) but then uses the lateral accelerometer signal to reduce the amount of power that goes to the front (this function is way overdone). The signal benders reduce the lateral accelerometer signal, so the ATTESSA ECU doesnt cut power so much. $60 ebay signal bender transformed my 32. The more work you've done on your suspension setup to reduce understeer, the more power you'll be able to send to the front. Nissan included the lateral accelerometer/power cut function as a way to stop power induced understeer.

Benchmark for oil pressure is ~10psi per 1000rpm, a little higher at idle. 25psi is a much more sensible idle pressure than 40, and shows that the 5W-50 is too thick. What viscosity was giving you 25psi? I like 0W-40 for the rb26dett and vq25det.

That should be "Unless you have a problem with oil pressure or temperature" and temp should be <120 degrees.

Check the PCV system isnt blocked. Check the dipstick seal provides some grip against the tube to hold it it. Otherwise Kane's right - its just too much blowby