MrStabby

Nah, not offended just offering my experience. I see you have 340kw + 296mm rotors so you're pushing your brakes hard. Makes sense you'll need a full track pad with that combo. I'm 305kw + the 330mm chinese kit + UAS air deflectors, so dont need as much pad.

Over-generalised statement is over-generalised. A1RMs were fine for me doing 1:11s at wakie. How much pad you need depends on many things. eg: power, weight, brake size, brake cooling, cornering ability, driving style etc etc. Sure, A1RMs are a crossover pad (that is, between a street and a track pad), but if that's all you need they will work well.

http://justjap.com/brakes/brake-kits/k-sport-front-brake-kits/nissan.html but plenty of places do them. You can also find them on ebay. Other names for the same stuff is G4, D2, ATTKD. Nismoid has run some group buys so check if there's anything active in that forum. You dont need different pads for the UAS kit.

Check the shocks for any fluid leaks. You'll have to replace them if you find any. Otherwise could be the bushes rubbing and some rubber friendly grease should help with that.

The chinese 330mm kit should fit fine under most 17s. If you're tracking i'd go the 330 kit instead of the UAS one. You get hatted rotors (IIRC replacement rings are only $AU250) and braided lines with it. I found the pedal had a much nicer feel than the standard calipers with braided lines.

Ozzy n Randy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcoweoZ6jpM

Measure the distance from the wheel centerline straight up to start of the guard. I'm guessing your car is lowered, and lowering adds negative camber as the lower control am is longer than the upper control arm. Also scan and post up the alignment specs. For search, GTSboy is saying go to google, then enter something like "R32 GTR tyre wear site:sau.com.au" in the search bar.

Also, low oil, old oil, wrong oil. There's been some speculation that oil starvation could be contributing to 3rd gears dying.

Changing your alignment away from the correct setting to get wheels to fit is a terrible idea. You're making your car suck instead of investing in the correct offset wheels - dont do it! WRT stretch, being at the stretched end of the tyre manufacturers rim width recommendation is the best handling option.

Re: measurement, i want thinking pressure plate flywheel mating surface to pressure plate throw out bearing mating surface. Have u just done a engine/gearbox conversion, or is this just a clutch replacement where there was a working clutch before? I guess its the former since you're questioning the gearbox?

Goes with Baker Street somehow in my mind

iruv - I guess you're grasping at straws with your clutch issue - but how would this help u resolve that? Did you try measuring up the old and new clutches to see if you could find any differences?

Venting the can to atmosphere is illegal and unnecessarily dumps really nasty crap into the air. You should plumb the vent into the factory breather fitting, that is, insert the catch can in the factory system, in the line that runs from the cam covers to the connection in the inlet. If you do that, you'll totally get more hot babes because you will be far more awesome.

There's been posts on here saying it is effective in lowering temps. Searchy time. Dilution rate is on the bottle

Madbung, u old. So; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMpGdG27K9o

Thanks Terry. Northmead is 35-40 minutes away, but i'm happy to travel for good work.

Wont be clutch, because its fine cold and you've been playing with the friction point. (FWIW If the friction point is too low then the clutch might not be fully disengaging and that will make changing gears difficult). Have you got newish, synthetic oil of the correct viscosity up to the fill mark? If not, i'd be starting there.

If it says fully synthetic on the label, it must be fully synthetic or they're in breach of the consumer/fair trading legislation. Fully synthetic can mean either; Group III - hydrocracked mineral oil (there was some argument about whether this should be considered synthetic when it came out). All the cheap synthetics will be mostly Grp III. Group IV - POA (or the new Gas to Liquid oils) eg Mobil 1 Group V - Esters eg Motul 300V or Redline.

Stainless

My exhaust has made sweet sweet love to a ripple strip and is badly banged in. I'm guessing a section will need to be cut out and replaced - any recommendations?

Go to Queensland forum, ask for recommended suspension shop in your area, take it there. Never go back to those other clowns. /thread

Should be ok, but it looks like its a dino so dont push the OCI. DI motors (is yours VQ35HR?) often contaminate the oil with fuel more than non-DI so shorter OCI on a dino is not a bad idea anyway. What does the owners manual specify? Make sure it meets all those requirements.

Hehe, dont know if i'd call that 'no issues'...

"I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues." how did you do that with an engaged clutch? Or is your problem actually "gearbox will not shift out of first" rather than "clutch will not disengage" ?

Here to strongly recommend "The Mental Illness Happy Hour" podcast - subscribe in iTunes or go to the website http://mentalpod.com/. Each episode is an interview by the host Paul Gilmartin (a comedian and depression sufferer) and a guest. I imagine the people posting in this thread will find a lot to relate to in the interviews. Check it out.