MrStabby

Yeah i've done that a few times - but i didnt know if it was useful or just irritating form the Admins...

From what i've read the D585s (which have heat sinks, also known as the truck ones) produce the most spark power - is there any danger running them if the dwell is sensible? In what way are they inferior to the D514As?

There seems to be a lot of spam on the forums these days - it would be nice if members could assist. How about an extra post reporting feature, that disables the account and hides all the posts of the spammer? It could be automatically triggered when say 20 members report the post, or maybe when the sum of the post counts of all the reporters reaches 20000. (So post count is used as a reliability indicator). Or, maybe hide any posted URLs for users under 50 posts, so there no incentive.

Looks more like a dodgy rust or accident repair than guard rolling to me.

From what i recall from ppl who have cut them open Ryco are just ordinary budget filters. From what's available in Australia, K&N are supposed to be good. Generally OEM filters are good, so i'd imagine Nissan filters would be a good option too.

The more you lower, the more adjustability you will have to add via adjustable bushes or arms to be able to get a decent alignment. The lowest you can go it about 350mm front 340mm rear (wheel centerline to guard) before the handling just becomes horrid. At that height you need to add quite a lot of adjustable components. If you can find the old SydneyKid group buy threads the info is in there. Low and comfortable trade off each other, so you generally don't expect to get both. Re dampener setting: set it half way then drive it for a while. After your used to it, then play with it for a bit.

These are all full synth, so will last longer and be more boil resistant, which will be important if you track it. Nissan certifications in brackets; Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL I use the Valvo because its well priced.

I've trial fitted a front +25 wheel with a 265 and there's ~9mm clearance to the curved upright. so that looks fine. I haven't tried a rear or driven it yet - need to fix an oil leak first... My thinking was that since 255s on a +30 rim worked, 265s on a +25 would have the same clearance to the upright. Of course i then found that the Dunlop 265s were about 20mm wider at the tread than the Toyo 255s...

The image upload works but the next page after that dies. The third image i uploaded (second for today) seemed to be ok though...

Assuming I understand what i've read - I think your focussing on the wrong bit. Yes, the widest tyre that will fit within the wheel well and past the suspension components is the best, however, you should put that tyre on the widest rim that is approved for that size tyre. FWIW, here's pics of 265s on 10.5 inch rims, for those concerned with aesthetics;

Prank - may be a co-incidence but on the last two times i've uploaded a pic, i get the cloudflare 502 immediately after on any sau.com.au URLs. It occured just now with a ~250k file. I can supply ntp squid logs if that helps.

I would strongly recommend avoiding Ferodo 3000s on the street - they chew through rotors very quickly at street temperatures. Interestingly for a proper track pad, they have good bite when cold. More generally, I would recommend against any track pad for the street. Street pads are better for the street, but if you're underbraked you might need to go to a crossover pad (like A1RMs) as a work around. However, you will then have worse cold bite and worse rotor wear. I think your original idea of HPX is sound, with a full fluid flush/master stopper/braided lines setup the pedal should feel great. If you manage to cook the HPXs on the street then you probably need to calm down . Apparently HPX suck for track use tho, so dont try that.

I'm in for this one.

Agree with DekA, but if its street only the A1RMs will be tough on the rotors, and not bite so well when cold. I use the Nulon brake fluid - rated to 280 Deg C, and cheap. Its a better value option for street or street with a bit of track compared to the high temp Motuls which are 2 to 3 times the price. That said, i'm thinking of going back to motul for the GTR since its mainly used for track days.

What ECU? most ECUs are open loop at WOT so there's no compensation.

Wear on the tread is fine, cracks/tears in the sidewall are a different thing entirely.

You could; - Get a written statement from a recognised expert (i guess that means a mechanic?) saying that the tyres were not "fit for purpose" (assuming that is the case) - Ring Fair Trading, or whatever the equivalent department is called in your state, for advice on how to proceed to get a refund.

I wouldnt have thought 32psi would cause any damage at all, and should definitely be fine if you're running the factory diameter rims. I'm skeptical. Where does the 38-40 psi recommendation come from? Is there anything written on the sidewalls WRT pressure? What did the shop that fitted them pump them up to?

Toe out = car wants to change direction/turn in/tramline, toe in = stable. I'm no expert but having any toe out on the rear looks weird to me, and may well explain what you're seeing. FWIW I run 0 toe front and rear.

I ended up getting 10.5 +25, trial fit of the wheels without tyres was fine. I now have 265/35s fitted but haven't had time to try them yet. I'm concerned about how the curve of the front upright comes in (toward where the tyre will be) where it mounts onto the upper arm. Might get tight there. I have already rolled my rear guards - i needed that for 255s on +20s on tyres with a generous treadwidth (IIRC the Falken RT-615 scrubbed but whatever was on there before didnt).

Any blue smoke from the exhaust? If so it could be turbo oil seal, otherwise just a bit of condensed blowby. In the second pic the bottom black hose is probably turbo to intercooler and the top is intercooler to manifold. You could check your intercooler to see how much oil its got isn it and degrease/clean it while its out. If the amount of oil in the intake track is a problem and its blowby related, you could get a catch can, or some mesh/foam in the rocker covers (not sure if this is a thing on RB25s, RB26 has mesh standard, and you can get 3 pass foam upgrades).

I dont know RB25s but its probably crankcase blowby fumes carrying oil mist into the intake where it can condense (which is normal unless its excessive). Is the leak point downstream from the turbo? If so you'll probably have a small boost leak. Try to get it to seal. The factory hose clamps are only supposed to be single use, and get pretty tired if they've been used a few times - might need to replace it to get a strong grip. Or maybe the rubber is perished a bit.