MrStabby

Why the need for the tow? Is it not running?

Does the car run well? If that injector to head mounting is not sealed, it will suck in unmetered air and run lean.

AFAIK oil pressure the key thing, but yeah 20-40 seems too cold. My HKS kit, which has a thermostat, sits at just above 70 degrees on the stock gauge all the time except at the track. To test coolant thermostats you just put them in a saucepan of tap water on the stove with a thermometer and check the temperature when you see it open. No idea if you could do similar with your oil thermostat, but if its stuck open you should be able to see that when you pull it out. Agree with double checking the plumbing too.

Most likely rotors, and yeah first step is to machine if thick enough AND clean the mating surfaces thoroughly before re-installing them. If that doesnt fix it then you look at bushes etc. Also its shudder not shutter.

Well i had assumed so, because otherwise the information is meaningless as you say. Maybe I am assuming too much... good point.

So Duncan what do you think about the comments in that thread, eg "Last year I know Scotsman from here dropped 1s on his lap time at Sandown by simply going from 265's on a 9" rim (R34 GTR rims) to 245's and consequently set the fastest time I know of for a GT-R with stock turbo's / engine around that track." I dont know what to think, but for me the the smaller tyre theory is plausible if it you consider how the tyre cross section could deform and therefore change the contact patch on the tarmac. Then i guess it comes down to weight of car+cornering gs vs sidewall strength. However, plausible doesn't mean its true...

From: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/156842-best-rim-and-tyre-width-for-circuit-gt-r/#entry2915649 "Having said that I'm pretty sure giant runs 265's on his R34 rims. But the general consesus down here is that stretching a tyre will be faster than sticking a fatter tyre on the same rim. I'm certainly going to be running the 245's on my 9.5's from now on rather than the 265's." And the Tyrerack website says "As a general rule, Tire Rack recommends mounting Track & Competition DOT tires on the widest rim widths approved by the tire manufacturer (up to the widest permitted by the competition class rules).” So, what i take away from that is "fit the widest tyre that will fit in the wheel well, on the widest rim that the manufacturer approves for that size tyre", but i have no first hand experience.

Post a picture. Assuming its just surface damage; - if there's anything protruding get it resurfaced, - if its all below the surface I would just run it as is.

Damn. I just bought some 18x10.5s to run 265/35-18. Do you think i should still try the V70s (i guess ill get the K90) or go with something else?

In V70a's, is the choice between K60 (medium) and K90 (hard) as simple as life vs grip? Will be for a full weight 300kw R32 GTR on tarmac (Wakefield and EC).

Tyres dont look too bad. A little less camber is probably better for street tyres. A set or two of adjustable bushes should be enough, and will still be legal. The reduction in toe you got might help a bit too (and should make it a little more eager to change direction).

Yeah, post alignment info first.

Last time i looked -7s came with new adjustable actuators, whereas -9s dont. So -7s may save you $300-400 once you take that into account. Dont run the old factory actuators. If all you want is 300kws then -7s are fine.

True, but track guys are always looking for any tiny increment in performance, and it was in the discussion of track rims i first saw the argument Here's the post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/156842-best-rim-and-tyre-width-for-circuit-gt-r/#entry2915649

I haven't seen any discussion of the theory - maybe some just discovered it empirically. I would guess its because it allows the tyre to better resist the deformation caused by the lateral force during cornering, as both sidewalls are pulling the tread taught when the rim is wide. That is, its more rigid, so when the the lateral force of cornering is applied they deform less.

For track, the usual recommendation is to fit the narrowest recommended tyre for the rim. In many cases on a 9in rim this will be a 225, but you need to check what the tyre manufacturer says is the rim recommendation for the specific size. Eg, on http://www.federaltyres.com.au/tyres/high-performance/595 the options would be 225/35ZR18 225/40ZR18 245/45ZR18 255/55R18.

There's a bunch of rubber hoses there and around the back of the motor. Its probably time to to ALL of them. More likely one of those than the metal tube leaking.

Doesnt that kill the CAS? IIRC you need spacers so the CAS sits the same distance away as it would with the cover in place.

Broken studs are more an R25 thing aren't they? No broken studs on my old 26, they weren't replaced when the turbos were, and still no problems.

Simplest thing to start with for the 3rd gear splatter is to pull the plugs and take a look. Change them anyway if they're old. Don't run a wider gap. Also, tunes don't last forever because all the components that produce power wear/get dirty etc and don't behave exactly like they did when the tune was done. Agree that fuel surge is the last issue. As soon as that happens head off the track and back to Goulburn to fill up again, or take spare fuel and save the trip. You'll find it starts at about the same fuel tank level each time.

Everyone with a skyline should have alarm + immobiliser. Get them. Now.

The Suspension forum is the correct place to ask this question http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/59-suspension-braking-and-tyres/ Some kingpins just get a bit loose and need tightening. Maybe if you pull it apart the bearing(s) will have a number on it.

If the oil is coming out of the shock its a bad sign. If they're still under warrantee i'd be investigate that option.

No, not normal. What brand?