MrStabby

There's a bunch of rubber hoses there and around the back of the motor. Its probably time to to ALL of them. More likely one of those than the metal tube leaking.

Doesnt that kill the CAS? IIRC you need spacers so the CAS sits the same distance away as it would with the cover in place.

Broken studs are more an R25 thing aren't they? No broken studs on my old 26, they weren't replaced when the turbos were, and still no problems.

Simplest thing to start with for the 3rd gear splatter is to pull the plugs and take a look. Change them anyway if they're old. Don't run a wider gap. Also, tunes don't last forever because all the components that produce power wear/get dirty etc and don't behave exactly like they did when the tune was done. Agree that fuel surge is the last issue. As soon as that happens head off the track and back to Goulburn to fill up again, or take spare fuel and save the trip. You'll find it starts at about the same fuel tank level each time.

Everyone with a skyline should have alarm + immobiliser. Get them. Now.

The Suspension forum is the correct place to ask this question http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/59-suspension-braking-and-tyres/ Some kingpins just get a bit loose and need tightening. Maybe if you pull it apart the bearing(s) will have a number on it.

If the oil is coming out of the shock its a bad sign. If they're still under warrantee i'd be investigate that option.

No, not normal. What brand?

Pads work in two modes: abrasive at low temperature, and adhesive at high temperature. Generally you expect track pads be be tough on rotors when used on the street because they may not get hot enough to move out of abrasive mode. So, crossover pads like A1RMs will be somewhat tough on rotors for street use. You'd expect full track pads to be worse. A mate of mine had DS3000s on his street car and it smashed the rotors. That doesnt mean its a bad pad tho. You'll also notice that A1RMs have a lot less bite than most street pads when cold. There's no right or wrong, you just need to find a compromise between all the different properties that suits you.

I'm using A1RMs with no squeal. Some pads have more tendency to squeal than others, but in many cases its due to poor installation. I use them for track and they're fine for my setup, which has some cooling at the front. My guess is that A1RMs will be better on the track, but worse on the street, than Ultimates. Give them a go. If you don't like them for street, get some full street pads and swap as required.

AFAIK the floorpan is the same on the 32, and no need to undo engine mounts or intercooler pipes. They're an utter bastard to get out....IIRC i lowered the rear of the engine as far as it would go, and had to be more brutal than I was comfortable with.

Nah its easy. You can get hand pumps for ~$20 at supercheap/repco/etc. Just remember open the filler before the drain (to check its not stuck).

Hi Terry, Please offer my place to the reserve guys, looks like work will almost certainly wreak my weekend

Pretty cool, but the variable turbine flow path stuff earlier in the video is pretty basic compare the porsche tech.

FWIW my 1990 is finned too.

5 and 6 look cleaner than the rest - could that be because of leaner running due to the stock plenums propensity to push a bit more air in the rear cylinders, or am i reading too much into it.

Could be an air leak - does it start when the turbo starts to produce boost?

The more you lower the more neg camber you'll get. You'll need to add some more adjustability to compensate. The rear has two upper control arms each side, so i'm guessing you'd need 4 sets of adjustable bushes if you choose to go that way. Whiteline make them (and possibly others). Suggest you ask for a suspension shop recommendation in the Vic section and just take it to them to sort out.

I have one of those (well, it looks identical). Mine keeps loosing the comms link between the computer and the consult unit. Havent got around to trying it on a different computer yet. If you're in Sydney and want to have a look let me know.

How much preload? Trent used to recommend 10mm as a starting point. Did you check they're operating in unison?

You use a cable tie to hold it it once its seated.

Did it come with the shifter to gearbox boot?

Re: swapping ECU, you can only use the stock one if the injectors and MAF(s) are stock.

For full synthetic fluids (the Nissan certifications are in brackets); Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL I use the Valvoline since its priced much better.