MrStabby

Pretty sure 2 is the factory boost controller not the PCV. 6 is the windscreen wiper motor. If the strut brace hits the Twin Turbo pipe, its probably the wrong strut brace. It should angle up at both sides had be flat in the middle.

What size and from where?

Maybe try the For Sale forum...... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/12-for-sale-private-car-parts-and-accessories/

The A1RM part number for the 330mm kit (which i believe uses the same pads as the 356 kit) is QDB 1933, which i guess is QFM using Bendix naming which would be DB 1933, and a bit of the googles gives; HSV Aftermarket Up-grade, VE / VZ Series, AP 6 piston Caliper & Harrop 6 piston Caliper, Clubsport, Maloo, Senator, Grange, GTS & GTO - 06 on & 05-06 Front DB1933

Mick_o - did you think the RSRs and KU36s were about the same level of dry grip? I remember back a couple of years ago the the reports were that the RSRs were much grippier than the KU36s. SIR_RB - not sure on kms, have done some track days on them too, so it wouldnt mean much. Next thing to consider is price. If the RS3s are about that same as the RSRs then its a no brainer to go with RS3's, but if they're significantly cheaper (SAU NSW price) then you've got a more difficult decision. I'd still probably spend the dough and go for the most grip tho. I imagine you've spent a bit on your engine!

Here's my 2c. Options A, B and C are all out. If you do any of that stuff, you're setting yourself on a bad path and bad attitude. Don't start looking at GTRs until you're ~6 months out from your full license. Aim to get one just before or after. In the mean time get something that's a bit track friendly (eg. mx5, Integra) so that you can have some fun and refine your car control. You could spend a little on mods on that temporary car, but remember you wont get any of it back, and its money you wont be able to spend on the GTR. Keep your driving record clean! Otherwise you'll get constant attention from the police, and they wont give you the benefit of the doubt or let you off. So that means don't speed on the streets - that's what the track days are for.

No idea about Hankook RS-3 and Potenza RE-11, but if John Boston says they're better, i'd take that as gospel. Most people answering here (including myself) have only used a handful of different tyres, so are largely ignorant..... I was impressed with the RSRs, and would not be surprised if they upped the treadwear. Mine have lasted a lot longer than i thought they would. Fatz is a track junkie, so he wouldnt like the RSRs. If he's talking about the Federal R specs, then that's not relevant to the RSRs. I like your summary - its about horses for courses and bang for buck. Daily driving = INVO Weekend car = NT-05

If the other party claims you'll have to pay the excess anyway, wont you? Might be worth checking the terms of your cover.

^ Dude - wrong thread for that question. Start a new thread. I used Ryco PN:RCA113P to replace my cabin filter. Old one (a bosch) was rank too.

I had an unknown brand 240mm organic single holding 240kw fine. I say drive it till its done then upgrade.

With as much power as you have, I wouldn't even consider the Invos and go to the NT-05s - but i haven't used either. If you join SAU NSW, you can get a deal on Federal RSRs which I have used and think are great (they are available in that size). RSRs are treadwear 140 compared to NT-05s @ 200, so should be a lot more grippy but wont last as long. I'd use RSRs if I had your car. No point in having huge power if you cant use it.

IMO since oil pump is an engine out job, just check the harmonic balancer is good and dont limiter bash. The drive should be ok if you do that. Original turbos seem to be a much greater risk so i'd put a high priority on them.

Boot light? You can put a multimeter in amp mode in series with the battery (keys out of the ignition), then pull fuses to see what causes the drain measured on the multimeter to drop. I just pull negative off the battery since the GTR is not a daily anymore.

Another option is to use Nismo radius rods which have a wider (and therefore stiffer bush). Rose joint arms: best suspension control, excellent adjustability, illegal, less durable Nismo arms: improved suspension control over stock, small adjustment with aftermarket bushes, legal, durable

R32s understeer a lot, and power oversteer a lot. AFAIK the understeer is due to the weight imbalance, so can be bandaided over but not stopped. Power oversteer is due to the attessa setup which can be cured with an attessa tweaker (and I guess the transfer case mod mentioned by Mick. I havent had it done, but many swear by it). I have ~400awhp and no problems powering out of the corner. -3 camber on the front -1.25 at the rear, zero toe both ends, castor will be around 4 40 now (stock is 3 40 so what i would have been running last track day, and i believe the nismo kit gives an extra degree), R spec tyres (r888s). IIRC i was running -2 at the front with RSRs, and wasnt that much slower, but r888s suck. My latest mods on my car to get rid of understeer are: Nismo suspension arm kit, softer front springs, more front ride height (old springs were too short to get to 350mm). Cant wait to try it out.

If the alignment caused problems, get that undone. Around -3 camber is what you'd use for R-specs, so is too much for S-specs like RSRs. I'd start with -2 and see how that goes. Measure the temperature across the tread inside to outside to see if its even. 6-7 castor is supposed to feel great but you'll destroy your upper control arm bushes pretty quickly... -2 camber on the rear is probably too much as well. If you can, post full alignment specs before and after. R32 attessa sucks balls in stock form - too much power oversteer. Get an attessa tweaker if you dont have one already.

^ 100% correct.

Yeah, you could trial fit a wheel to see if it clears without a tyre, and see how much clearance to the strut you'll have for a tyre. Might as well try both front and back. IIRC front will be the interesting end.

My superpro bushes look a bit like the ones in the picture except they're tapered from the insert to the bush carrier, and the insert is dead center. I noticed when i pulled out the old radius rods that Heasmans had set one side to shortest and the other side to midway to make it track straight. The insert (I think its called a crush tube?) is a tight fit at the chassis mount, needed some rubber mallet encouragement. Anyway, my front suspension is all together now - nismo arm kit/new longer and softer springs/4 new ball joins/align and corner weight. Cant wait to track it again.

Re: fluid The letters in brackets are the Nissan certifications. I use the Valvoline as its well priced and synthetic. Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL On the GTR theres a bleeder on top of the rear of the gearbox, and IIRC another near the diff somewhere. Workshop manual bleed method is you disconnect a wire in the drivers side footwell then reconnect over and over again. I've been told (by Duncan?) that you can just put the car up on stands with the motor running and crack the bleeders. Sounds like a much better option to me. Not sure if your attessa is the same.

Dude.. caps lock. If you like Redline, and the gearbox is in good condition then MT90 75W90 is what you'll want. If the gearbox is tired, try Lightweight Shockproof.

IMO the information in the oil sticky is the usual set of old wives tales and general ignorance. Suggest you go to www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums instead, at least there are some real experts there. FWIW i use Mobil 1 0W-40 in my 300kw GTR (which gets tracked) and Stag (the daily).

Stock ECU means you'll have to use stock injectors and stock MAFs, so keep the boost down very low. The injectors will max out at around 280awkw, but it depends on how dirty they are. No idea what boost that would be on -5s, but probably something like 5psi. There's many threads about how to run in engine here, so search and you will find. From what i remember, use a cheap/basic dino oil and dont baby it. You probably keep the oil for around 1000kms, then change it out to something good - with filter change.

The letters in brackets are the Nissan certifications. I use the Valvoline as its well priced and synthetic. Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL If you're pushing the trans, use a synth, and think about a fluid cooler. Temperature kills ATF fluid. Synth fluid handles it better and a cooler is a no-brainer.

You make a strong point...