MrStabby

My 2c, with a lot of agreement with what others have said. The key things are: exercise, sleep, nutrition, meditation, medication, therapy - Exercise helps most people but not all. I find exercise makes me feel worse but this is probably due to chronic fatigue (which is better known as exercise induced fatigue). I partially mitigate by being careful not to go too hard at the gym and getting massages. I wonder how much of this issue is due to medication...But for most people this is probably the first thing to get into and should help. - Sleep is really important. Make your room pitch black. I've got black tape over anything with an LED to achieve this. Avoid bright lights and screens a few hours before bed as blue light suppresses melatonin production. Caffeine has a long half life, so better to avoid after midday. Even if it doesnt prevent you from falling asleep, it does reduce sleep quality. Check you dont have sleep apnoea. https://time.com/5189387/dark-room-sleep-study/ - OP mentioned lethargy & apathy - i've heard depression also called a lack of vigour. A little Adderall or Modafinil can help with this symptom, but you'll need a script. - The biggest mistake with people starting meditation is that they believe that the goal is to not be thinking, and therefore if they catch themselves thinking, they have failed and give up believing they cant do it. The goal is to catch yourself thinking, as you have to realise you are thinking before you can try to stop. After 20+ years, I am still mostly in a trance of automatic thought, occasionally catching myself and entering brief periods of mere observation without thought. - A lot of therapists suck. Expect to have to churn through some to find someone decent. - For mild depression medications are about as effective as placebo - For major depression medications can help, but none are a cure and finding which one is best is found with experimentation - When you're deep in, sometimes all you can do is wait, and that's good enough I need to get around to reading this; https://www.foundmyfitness.com/topics/depression

Mine would idle ok when cold, and when hot it would idle for a short time ok, then get rough. With RB motors i've heard of circumstances where the coilpacks get marginal when they're hot. Havent heard of that with VQ coils but it could be a thing. Oh - the other issue i noticed when there was a vac leak was that both fuel trims would max out (one at +25% and the other at +10%). info https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280322-m35-obd2-or-is-it/page/4/#comments

I've had a bit of trouble with old and hardened manifold vac/boost hoses blowing off under boost. Last one was difficult to spot since the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator) end had come off. I now know what to look for when the idle goes a bit wonky... but it shouldnt happen now that the bad hoses have been replaced. You could start the motor and remove the non-manifold end of each hose one at a time. Block the end with your thumb to verify there's vacuum and that the idle changes. If you have a vacuum gauge check what the manifold has at idle.

I have one I bought from Scotty a year or two ago. Never fitted it because the rebuild came back quicker. Let me know if you want it. $200 in Sydney.

Yeah. Even though twins and twin scroll both address the exhaust pulse interaction issue, no-ones doing modern bolt on twins (AFAIK, tiny market by comparison) so you're stuck with old & inferior turbo tech if you go that way.

Yep. Sure, double the length will double the loss due to length, but the changes in direction, interference etc would be a far more significant cause of losses than these relatively short lengths. Or so my intuition (and only intuition, no actual data) tells me.

Yeah the thought process was; the picture on the Kudos page is probably an OEM R34 one, and therefore the one on the car would be refillable.

Re fan clutch, the one in the Kudos photo looks like it might be re-fillable (the screws on the periphery). Check out the DIY in my sig for instructions.

I've been having trouble with intermittent and broken power windows on the R32. Using the information from https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/291360-power-window-stuck-electric-window/?do=findComment&comment=4878899 I found that: most of the problems were resolved by cleaning the switches, the last issue was fixed by re-soldering the relay in the "amplifier". Also the drivers side switch can be opened and fixed too. So, the drivers switch internals; As you can see it has the same problem as the passenger switch shown in the post linked above. That post says "10) STOP! dont try to pry apart the circuit board any further.. as you will break it.. if you look at this picture you can see that due to this whole assembly being screwed down THEN soldered in the nissan factory.. its not possible to remove this, so i just sprayed the cleaner as much as possible inside and re-assembeled everything, i suppose if it got really broken in there you could cut the circuit board to remove those 2 tiny little screws you see in the pic and get in there" I eventually managed to get the assembly apart by removing the screws (the circuit board untouched) then flexing the black plastic. However there was some damage; Perhaps you will have better luck. Anyway that break is not bad enough to cause issues and since the swtich was not usable anyway i figured i had nothing to loose. So after clean up; And, similar to what i found on the passenger side, the switch contacts were badly pitted; So i reversed the orientation of these pieces before reinstalling them, hoping that may help them last a little longer. Now putting the pieces in place; And then carefully lowering the cap back onto the switch, making sure the switch lever points sit in the valleys before pushing it together. The tabs click into place and i left the screws out as the switch is very solidly mounted without them, and they would be very difficult to get back in. After all that, I still had intermittent operation of down on the drivers side window. Up always worked, and up and down always worked on the passenger side. I found that the issue was due to dry joints on the surface mounted relay in what Nissan calls the "power window amplifier". This is a black box mounted under the door trim, occupying the space under the elbow rest/shelf/whatever that's called. Its attached by a metal bracket with two screws into the door shell. To get inside the box, I put some sandpaper on a flat surface then wore away one long edge and the short edge opposite the plug end. The plug end is not bonded to the cap in that end, so now we have three sides of the box that are "free" and can then flex the side open. Sorry - should have taken photos. Once open there is a single circuit board with two surface mounted relays (that is, the relays are soldered directly onto the board). I noticed that two of the joints appeared to have a little carbon around them. From the service manual, the amplifier pin out is; To operate the relays, apply +12v to pin 4, then connect ground to 1 and 2 to drive the relays. The intermittent operation occurred on the relay with the carboned up joints, and those joints didn't look like they'd been soldered well (they should look concave). I applied heat to the solder joints to have the solder re-flow onto the relay pin and board run. Re-checked them by applying voltage and they were now working well. If you want to multimeter test the drivers side switch, facing the switch and labelling pins as Drivers window; 1 & 2 - open circuit, connected on UP and AUTO UP 1 & 3 - open circuit, connected on DOWN and AUTO DOWN 1 & 4 - open circuit, connected on AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN Passenger window; 1 & 7 - connected, open circuit on UP and DOWN 7 & 9 - connected, open circuit on UP 1 & 9 - connected, open circuit on DOWN

Than might have been a lubrication issue. What oil & how old? IIRC the guy from Award used to have a mod to help stop oil slopping to the back of the gearbox. Or if the gears are case hardened perhaps the case hardening was worn through exposing the softer material underneath.

OB link looks nice. What are you using the Pi + 4G for?

About 5 years ago I got a mobile guy to come out and regas the struts in the Stagea tailgate. Still going strong, so a good option if the struts are just weak.

Everyone seem to have gone to 100 cell now, other than this for $374 catco http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/catco-high-flow-metal-race-catalytic-converter-762mm-suit-nissan-rnn14-wc34-p-1597.html what options are there in 200 cell?

My ABS motor runs all the time, and Mr Google says this is due to a failed relay (must fall safe, which is on). I *think* the relay back is on the back of the ABS unit facing the firewall. Is that correct, and if so, do i have to remove the ABS unit to get to the relay pack or can it be removed with the ABS in place?

I had the same symptoms and came the conclusion it was not a bleeding problem after re-filling the viscous clutch and installing a bigger radiator stopped the overheating. If i had realised the viscous clutch was stuffed first, I wouldn't have changed the radiator unless i could confirm I still had overheating. So check if you're viscous clutch is ok first (see the link in my sig). I'm still using the 6000cst fluid - never go around to trying the 3000.

After pulling the turbos on the rb26 i noticed that the dump to front pipe gaskets had been protruding into the flow, because the holes for the studs on the gasket are way too big and therefore cant be relied upon to hold the gasket in a good position. Any tricks to getting a good alignment? I there some way to "glue" the gasket onto the front pipe so it stays in the right position until its bolted up?

A 5 puc clutch like that will be very different to drive compared to a stock clutch. If you want something that feels like a stock clutch and is nice in traffic, but is good for up to 300kws, contact NPC for an organic. http://www.npcperformance.com.au/