MrStabby

Blasphemer!! Anyone who sets their alignment settings to get wheels to fit is not interested in tyre wear or grip.

I'd say 10.5's at +15 is going to require some non-trivial work on the guards. I have 9s +20's and they rubbed at the back for me, and you're going to need to fit 24mm more on the guard side with those rims. Maybe half of that can come with stretched tyres but what about the rest?

yes it is odd. so i drove the car & it feels completely different. the pull to the left is almost non existent & with a heasmans wheel alignment / camber adjustment, it will be great!its surprising how much more its tracks the road though BUT i am running 19inch wheels with 35 series tyres - this would be the main cause right (big wheels)? i also wonder if more aggressive 'toe out' was introduced, whether that would rectify this issue You mean toe in, right? Toe out makes it want to change direction, toe in makes it track straight. I'm sure heasmans will set it up nicely. I've got my coilovers back in so i'm going to call them now to book it in.

Somethings wrong there - thats a massive difference. I'm guessing springs could be maybe up to 5mm different due to sag/manufacturing tolerance, but 35mm! Will be interesting to see how it drives and what they say when you get the fine setup done.

The story i heard was that some of he R32 parts were superseded with R33 parts, which are better (more sychros on 3rd and 4th IIRC), however, that means you have to replace some associated parts to the R33 items. I guess you could contact Nissan to ask about parts availability. If you're in Sydney, Award Diff and Gearbox are very well regarded. You need special tools for the job, so its probably best left to a workshop. Some get a little more life out of their gearboxes by using Redline Lightweight Shockproof (aka Smurfs blood), which makes the synchros grip a little better. All this stuff has been covered before so do a search.

Is it just me or does that hole look rusted out?

Yeah odos are rarely correct (despite what the owner might say, or even think) so just buy on condition. Strongly suggest you get a pre purchase inspection from a shop that knows skylines. I wouldn't be worried about the paint. Also - make sure you get comprehensive insurance. If you cant afford that, you cant afford the car IMO.

I like to change all the fluids when i get a new (to me, second hand) car, but it depends on time/money/priorities. So maybe for you it would be better to focus on fixing broken stuff and just top up now. Its just Valvoline so get it from any spare parts place. Another option is the Nulon synthetic but its a fair bit more expensive.

Yep. A lightened flywheel will save 4-5kg, and that's noticeable. Lightened pulleys are going to be a small fraction of that.

I think you'll probably want to change out the puc clutch then, and leave the hydraulics as they are. My car had an OS Giken twin plate when i got it, and after it got a little temperature in it, it worked a like a switch (on or off - nothing in between), so was horrible in traffic. Swapped it for a cheapo organic single plate (good for 240kw) and all was good. When power went up to 300kw i got the NPC organic single plate which was still still quite inexpensive and still very easy to use. The adjustment will just move the take up point - it will still be as grabby and heavy.

I'd use Valvoline Synthetic ATF. Its Nissanmatic D, J and K compliant and ~$10.00/L. Not true about mineral and synthetic - you can use either, but synthetic will last longer, and for power steering the higher boiling point can be useful at the track.

I think they usually fiddle the castor to fix that - anyway just leave that for heasmans to sort out. If there's not enough (any?) standard castor adjustment go for superpro adjustable radius rod bushes.

Might as well set the height yourself - you just need a c spanner for that. If you're going to track it (or if you're a perfectionist ) get Heasmans to corner weight it after you've settled on height.

AFAIK you can't tell whats in there without dropping the box. Unless maybe you can see through the clutch fork hole a bit? Check you have vacuum at the clutch booster (works the same way as a brake booster). If you clutch in and start the motor you should feel it in the pedal. For the take up point, there should be an adjustment at the pedal (i've never need to adjust mine, so have never checked it out myself). I have the NPC 250mm organic, and its like a factory clutch - super easy to use with 300kw. I dont think it would last long under abuse tho (clutch dumps).

Heres a few of the threads GTSBoy is talking about; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439378-r32-gtr-hsd-coilovers-what-height/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/439337-r34-gtr-ride-height-help/ Interesing Tein say same height front and rear. When my car is back together ill have to measure the chassis rail to floor heights front and back to see if my intended 350fr/340rr makes the rails parallel to the ground (which I assume is what is best). Camber depends on what tyres you are running. With R specs its usually around the 3 degrees negative at the front. With S specs (Fed RSRs) i think i was running 2 neg front and 1.25 neg rear. Heasmans have done plenty of work on my GTR. Castor needs to be near factory setting (3 deg 40 IIRC) or you'll load up the upper arm bushes and flog them out. I run zero toe front (and I think zero toe back)

Have you already identified the problem and found a broken part? If so, which bit is the problem? Sometimes there's other options like getting the magnetic clutch re-wound.

Yeah if you're handy its really pretty easy to rebuild callipers. There's probably youtube videos on how to do it - watch a few of them first.

Agree with the above. The leaking from the joint is uncommon. Typically you just do the piston seals during a rebuild as the other stuff doesnt tend to fail, and its better not to disturb it if you dont have too. Of course in this case you would have to split the calliper and replace those seals too. Tightening the bolts may help a little as a bandaid, but since the pistons stuffed too you really need to give it some more attention

The idea behind a BOV is to stop the build up of pressure between a recently closed throttle and spinning compressor, since that pressure would cause the compressor to slow down, and cause lag when the throttle is reopened. So Simon is seeing the opposite of what its supposed to achieve. +1 to Lith on bad setup and lower turbo life without BOV

No to fuel reg - you wont get anywhere near to maxing out 550s. They're an ugly hack anyway. Edit: FYI the rule of thumb for 6 cylinder engines is 1 flywheel HP per cc of injector size, so 550cc injectors means ~550HP.

Agree with all above. Start and drive normally until oil is up to temp, then go nuts. Leaving a cold motor idling is counter-productive.

Kreator are touring. I'm seeing them April 18. Phantom Anitchrist is good....

The diff took about 200ml to it before It started leaking out. This time I used light castrol manual transmission fluid 75w-80. End result is car now tucks into corners again so I'm happy.One thing I found odd was that I could not tighten the nut all the way when closing it, there was about 2-4 threads left visible and the bolt was very tight. But thats how I found it. Thats normal - its a tapered thread. You dont need to tighten it up hard, just firm.

Might be worth throwing some plugs at it (and seeing what the current ones look like) since that's cheap if you're using coppers, but yeah agree with injector cleaning (and oil change!).

Last time I looked at the ducts the just jap ones were fibreglass knock offs. The real ones are plastic and have clips to hold them on. If it were me i'd pay extra for the real ones (and if time=money, it would work out cheaper since i dont have to work out how to mount the JJ ones). I like RHDJapan.... but have also used greenline and nengun sucessfully.