MrStabby

For a quality full synthetic, 3x the factory mineral drain interval. So if its the 80,000kms stated, yeah it will need a rebuild before the oil goes bad.

If both pieces are made from the same metal (or if they have the same coefficient of thermal expansion), the clearance will not change if they stay at the same temperature.

Sounds like a good idea to me. It will take a lot more crud to block a filter than a flow restriction orifice. They may be right. IIRC the Golf GTI's are a low boost, low stress motor. Combine that with extended drain interval fully synthetic oil, 20,000kms shouldnt be a problem.

If you were trying to go up slowly, then its not rpm or torque, because you regulate that with the clutch. Still suspension will definitely be a problem, as it will significantly un-weight one wheel, in which case you really need a working LSD to get any forward movement. Any idea if both wheels were spinning or just one?

What plugs? What's the octane rating of the fuel? 95RON is absolute minimum.

If you have a multimeter, check which one is 0 ohms to the car body - that's negative/earth.

I *think* going on cross sectional area is oversimplifying the question due to boundary layer effects. My guess is that a single 3.5 will flow better than twin 2.5, due to extra drag against the pipe wall that the twin 2.5 will face. Is there a mech eng in the house to clarify?

IIRC the later model oil pump drive is just longer, so any pump will fit on any crank, but the longer drive will be a lot more reliable due to spreading the load over a much larger surface. You will be able to tell from the marking on the broken pump gears. Do a search for photos. Also, don't put a high volume oil pump in without doing the oiling mods to suit, or you may drain your sump and trash your motor. A standard pump would be better in that case. I have no first hand experience - so take the above with a grain of salt.

Does the com port show up in Device manager when the cable is connected to your PC?

You must be driving too slowly

And if they just go by plates, they wont get the drunks, people who have just committed a crime (may have evidence of the crime on them), etc. Doing a runner is very sus - the police have to chase, otherwise any crim knows all he has to do is run and he's only going to get done for running, rather than something more serious.

I disagree. They can defect you, it just wont stand up to scrutiny. Doesn't mean you wont be inconvenienced by the process of clearing it. Remember, cops are not automotive engineers, and they may not know the details of the legislation well. If they have a hunch you have something defectable, there's no reason for them not to write it up as there's no real downside for them. So its best not to be a jerk when you get pulled over

I broke my breaker bar trying to undo that FO big nut on the end of the axle... got a shop's 3/4drive rattle gun onto it and it surrendered.

Here's where the xforce splits put the o2 sensor when you use the r32 screw in adapter (the welded in bung is for R33, the adapter screws into the r33 bung). FAIL. So i had that bung cut out and the screw in adapter welded in, so the sensor is in the gas stream; Then i ground it flat;

You should find something with a search, but IIRC the consensus is its a lot of work, requiring special pullers.

If the pineapples are alloy, then more NVH is to be expected. If its a street car, you may be better with neoprene/nolathane/whatever its called pineapples. Just take them out and go for a test run - you'll have your answer.

+1 you want the wheel centerline to guard measurement to be 10mm higher at the front. Most people recommend 350mm front 340mm rear. I used to have 335mm at the front and raising to 350 made the suspension work a lot better. One you've got the ride height about right you should get it corner weighted and aligned. IIRC i'm using about 2deg negative camber at the front and 1.25 negative at the rear. Make sure you dont have any toe in at the front, or at least less than you have at the back. I'm using zero toe at the front and haven't had tramlining with either Falken rt-615s or Federal 595RS, which are similar styles of tyre to your Kumhos. You WILL need a stiffer rear sway bar - makes a huge difference, and if you get an adjustable its easy to play with the under/over-steer balance. EDIT: oh i see you have sway bars already - your front one may be too heavy, which will make understeer worse. Changing the tyres is a waste of time until you get the front/rear balance right, and to make R specs work properly you need more aggressive alignment settings, which will mean more tyre wear for road use.

I probably do that a couple of times a year due to brain fade. Its only worth changing the oil if its due for a change, or if you don't know when its due for a change, so you do one as a precaution then get back to the normal drain interval.

Another good point - putting the heater on full is also a good idea, especially if you're changing/flushing coolant.

Yeah you're probably right. Thermostats dont seal, but to clear any air pockets you'll want full flow. FWIW when i've re-checked after bleeding my way, there's only been a tiny bit more air, whereas when you first crack it after draining, there's a ton of air in there.

1. Yes that's it. Mine is a hex head tho, directly above the gold sticker. 2. Cold stopped engine, fill radiator, open bleeder, wait until coolant comes out, close bleeder, top up radiator. I've never bothered to have it run at all, let alone warm it for bleeding. 3. Just be careful, you'll only get a slow flow and you stop it by replacing the bleed bolt. Its not a problem - you're over thinking it 4. Just be careful not to overtighten the bleeder and snap the bolt. BTDT.

Son of a bitch! Sorry dude. Are engines still useable after being in a fire? For the record; 1. Do you have insurance? 2. What security did it have? 3. Where was it parked? Street/garage/?

Replacement hose bad?