MrStabby

IIRC there's nothing stopping the cap from entering the motor if it were to fall off.... so i'd be getting a professional to refit it.

Rather than making a new tool thread, any comments on this for getting off flywheel bolts? Would it be up to it? $169 on sale for jap made rattle gun, 425ft/lb (so about 575nm?). The $40 supercrap ones are 310nm.... transquip link

Problem is, boostcruising = SAU = any other modified performance car group to the media and general public, so they'll think we're those idiots. Shell/Iron Chef - agree with your take on situation. Its reasonable to assume they will all get tickets etc in the mail. I certainly hope so.

That grease method is fine for the spigot - just not the rear main seal You just need a drift that's pretty much the same diameter as the input shaft. How are you going to replace the throw out on the carrier? I dont have a press... Also, what method are you going to use to stop the crank spinning when you do the flywheel bolts?

Hang on - did you say you are thinning your gearbox oil with engine oil?? I'd say that's a very bad idea....

I do, an HKS kit, but its thermostated IIRC. That's just what the gauge says, so no idea if the calibration is off, but the needle location is consistent. It goes up with track work, but i back off once it reaches 110 (it would keep going up).

What engine oil and gearbox oil do you use? I believe thicker oils cause more damage at start up (but its still an almost insignificant amount). FWIW full synth oil is more consistent across temperature ranges than dino. I don't think coolant temperature is a good indicator. My coolant temperature gets up fast, the oil takes a lot longer. I keep things sedate until my oil's at 70 degrees on the gauge, which is where it stays during normal driving. So full temp. Re: your response to Mad's comment on fuel washing cylinders - if you want to know for sure, get your oil tested. One of the things they test is fuel contamination. Mad has the theory correct, but the effect may not be significant in your case.

FWIW Its better for the motor if you drive smoothly (no boosting, rpm below 3000) to warm it up. Nothing to worry about. If you see a lot of black smoke when you're boosting then you should probably get it tuned.

There's a thread in the NSW section; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366085-fatal-crash-on-the-f3-3-car-pile-up/

Your goods are not "fit for purpose" so I suggest you take the kit back to JustJap and get your money back. They have to return your money if i understand the Trade Practices act, or whatever its called these days. Seems odd to me that ksport got involved with you - IMO you should just deal the JJ. I would insist on that if i were you. FWIW, I am a happy JJ and G4 brake customer.

How easy is it to do the rear main? Obviously flywheel off first but then what? Is that gearbox oil seal quite easy to get to? Does the input shaft stick through it? FWIW my input shaft bearings are noisy too (have been for years), but from what I understand its a fair bit of work to do that bearing, so I was just going to leave it for now and wait until i get the whole box reconditioned. Any comments on that? FWIW the gearbox is still in. I dont know if i can be bothered doing it on the floor of the garage again myself this time... at least i have all the tools now but its such a bitch of a job. Prop shafts are already marked. BTW - thanks to both of you.

Can the engine's rear main seal be done when the clutch is out, and would you typically do it as preventative maintenance or only if it was leaking? My throw out bearing has died so i'm getting together a list of work to do at the same time. So far the list is; - Upgraded clutch - New spigot and throw out bearings - New mount bushes for crossmember to body connection (gearbox mount looks fine) - Attessa bleed after install Is there anything else that should be done while its out?

Unless you can confirm it insulates electrically, rip it off and use a branded electrical tape. I've bought Nitto branded japanese made tape from Jaycar. Good stuff.

Dunno. On the previous generation coilpacks primary winding (where the power is switched in) its 0.6 to 0.9 ohms, middle and left pin when looking at coil plug. Yours will be different - i'm guessing you might not be able to check the primary winding unless you can power up the ignitor..... hmm mightn't be worth the trouble unless you can find the proper check procedure out of the workshop manual. The insulation fix is cheap so maybe just get that sorted and see how the coils go.

I dont think that's going to help. Have you gone crazy with electrical tape/silicon/sikaflex/whatever to get some insulation into the air gap where the arcing is occurring? If there is a problem with arcing to the core, putting plastic washers will just make it arc to the bracket instead IF they are effective in insulating the core from the bracket, which I doubt. I think the fundamental problem is the breakdown of the insulation around the solenoids. The core to bracket is a side issue. Might be worth checking the solenoids with a multimeter. If they're not within spec, then you'd be better off with new coils, because you cant fix that. If they're ok then persist with the insulation.

Sell cams, buy cam gears and save the difference. Or if the cash is burning a hole in your pocket post details of your setup and we'll suggest something much more useful to spend it on.

Correct. The metal core is not connected to either of the solenoids inside (unless its stuffed), so it wont be carrying any current, so it doesnt matter if its got paint on it or not. A thin layer of paint wouldnt be effective against high tension anyway. EDIT: actually if the core was grounded against the mounting braket then it might well be an attractive place for the current to go. Whatever - just insulate the best you can where its arcing.

I've just done the full bleed in correct order, ie 1. Left rear brake 2. Right rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right front brake 5. Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car) 6. Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall) And its not bad. Not perfect so i'll run through the whole procedure once again. Felt good to be back in the pilot seat after 3 weeks Kiwi - I'm not using RBF600 any more. I'm trying the Nulon stuff since its a third the price, available anywhere, and not too far off the temperature rating (280 vs 310 IIRC). Need to do a track day to see how well it holds up tho.

Yep, you're right it would be rich, but tune may be hiding it, and if that's the case you'll need a retune after..

Teh Lulz. And yes there's no way to measure a boost leak because the all connected bits of pipework will have close enough to the same pressure (assuming there's no big restriction in there). You would have to measure air flow either side of the leak.

If you want people to give you the "what's that bad smell" face, do one of the following; - Take the RB out of a Skyline - Take the JZ out of a Supra - Take the Rotor out of an RX7

The brand new ABS itself is now clear of air, but the pedal is straight to the floor. I was assuming that there would only be very little air in the lines from the ABS to the brakes - after all the brake fluid is not going to defy gravity right? The pedal is not even spongy. No obvious leaks so i guess i'll do the calipers, which AFAIK means i'll have push the air bubbles all the way from the ABS to the calipers first, so a crapload of pedal pumps. So, - is there something i'm missing, or is bleeding the calipers the only way forward? - roughly how many pedal pumps per caliper to clear the line? FWIW before the ABS work i put in a second hand master cylinder as it was leaking badly out the back. The replacement doesnt appear to be leaking at all.

You've done pressure before and after cooler, how about pressure before compressor vs atmospheric? If there is a restriction before the compressor, it will have to work harder (and therefore add more heat) than it would if it was drawing from atmospheric pressure. Also, how about measuring temperature before and after the cooler to test your idea?

You HAVE to do the other oiling mods like block restrictor etc or I *think* the N1 will make the situation WORSE! My reasoning? because the biggest risk is running out of oil at the oil pump pickup, and if you put a higher volume oil pump in, and make no other changes, you are more likely to empty the sump. So the options are; 1. Overfill the sump (obviously a no brainer!) 2. More oil drains (what does that involve? Block modifications?) 3. Bigger sump/baffles (engine out?) 4. New N1 or similar pump (engine out?) 5. (another theory/guess of mine) dont run oil thats too think, as it will take longer to drain back to the sump I have no direct experience, just trying to get some clarity on the options. Can someone confirm the work required for options 2/3/4? EDIT: Doh forgot the restritors in my list - is that head off only?