MrStabby

The thowout bearing's inner ring, which is a press fit onto the carrier, is 46mm OD (40mm ID). So, i want to use a copper or aluminium (or maybe even hardwood?) bar so that when I hammer it onto the carrier I only touch the inner ring so the bearing is not damaged. Any suggestions where to get a suitable bar?

Probably to help even out air distribution to each cylinder.

I believe the "knock" map on the standard ECU is designed for 95 octane. What's the relevance of that on a MAFed engine?

DO WANT! How much? I didn't see a price on the blackwoods link.

Who did the tune? It could be too lean.

My guess is that it was holding the alternator/ps pump/aircon pump. Have a look - alternator bolts to the block with one of those, but its low down and hard to see. Look on the engine side of the pulley. A photo would help.

Yep, as Duncan says only the Vspec 32 got the brembos. Also, weren't the 324mm rotors with the brembos only 30mm wide?

Has be build a lot of RB's? What happens with warranty if you don't follow his advice? I think you need to go elsewhere, or you're going to have a problem.

How did you hold the crank still? With a rattle gun i can just ignore that issue. And its a good excuse for buying new toys!

IIRC there's nothing stopping the cap from entering the motor if it were to fall off.... so i'd be getting a professional to refit it.

Rather than making a new tool thread, any comments on this for getting off flywheel bolts? Would it be up to it? $169 on sale for jap made rattle gun, 425ft/lb (so about 575nm?). The $40 supercrap ones are 310nm.... transquip link

Problem is, boostcruising = SAU = any other modified performance car group to the media and general public, so they'll think we're those idiots. Shell/Iron Chef - agree with your take on situation. Its reasonable to assume they will all get tickets etc in the mail. I certainly hope so.

That grease method is fine for the spigot - just not the rear main seal You just need a drift that's pretty much the same diameter as the input shaft. How are you going to replace the throw out on the carrier? I dont have a press... Also, what method are you going to use to stop the crank spinning when you do the flywheel bolts?

Hang on - did you say you are thinning your gearbox oil with engine oil?? I'd say that's a very bad idea....

I do, an HKS kit, but its thermostated IIRC. That's just what the gauge says, so no idea if the calibration is off, but the needle location is consistent. It goes up with track work, but i back off once it reaches 110 (it would keep going up).

What engine oil and gearbox oil do you use? I believe thicker oils cause more damage at start up (but its still an almost insignificant amount). FWIW full synth oil is more consistent across temperature ranges than dino. I don't think coolant temperature is a good indicator. My coolant temperature gets up fast, the oil takes a lot longer. I keep things sedate until my oil's at 70 degrees on the gauge, which is where it stays during normal driving. So full temp. Re: your response to Mad's comment on fuel washing cylinders - if you want to know for sure, get your oil tested. One of the things they test is fuel contamination. Mad has the theory correct, but the effect may not be significant in your case.

FWIW Its better for the motor if you drive smoothly (no boosting, rpm below 3000) to warm it up. Nothing to worry about. If you see a lot of black smoke when you're boosting then you should probably get it tuned.

There's a thread in the NSW section; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366085-fatal-crash-on-the-f3-3-car-pile-up/

Your goods are not "fit for purpose" so I suggest you take the kit back to JustJap and get your money back. They have to return your money if i understand the Trade Practices act, or whatever its called these days. Seems odd to me that ksport got involved with you - IMO you should just deal the JJ. I would insist on that if i were you. FWIW, I am a happy JJ and G4 brake customer.

How easy is it to do the rear main? Obviously flywheel off first but then what? Is that gearbox oil seal quite easy to get to? Does the input shaft stick through it? FWIW my input shaft bearings are noisy too (have been for years), but from what I understand its a fair bit of work to do that bearing, so I was just going to leave it for now and wait until i get the whole box reconditioned. Any comments on that? FWIW the gearbox is still in. I dont know if i can be bothered doing it on the floor of the garage again myself this time... at least i have all the tools now but its such a bitch of a job. Prop shafts are already marked. BTW - thanks to both of you.

Can the engine's rear main seal be done when the clutch is out, and would you typically do it as preventative maintenance or only if it was leaking? My throw out bearing has died so i'm getting together a list of work to do at the same time. So far the list is; - Upgraded clutch - New spigot and throw out bearings - New mount bushes for crossmember to body connection (gearbox mount looks fine) - Attessa bleed after install Is there anything else that should be done while its out?

Unless you can confirm it insulates electrically, rip it off and use a branded electrical tape. I've bought Nitto branded japanese made tape from Jaycar. Good stuff.

Dunno. On the previous generation coilpacks primary winding (where the power is switched in) its 0.6 to 0.9 ohms, middle and left pin when looking at coil plug. Yours will be different - i'm guessing you might not be able to check the primary winding unless you can power up the ignitor..... hmm mightn't be worth the trouble unless you can find the proper check procedure out of the workshop manual. The insulation fix is cheap so maybe just get that sorted and see how the coils go.

I dont think that's going to help. Have you gone crazy with electrical tape/silicon/sikaflex/whatever to get some insulation into the air gap where the arcing is occurring? If there is a problem with arcing to the core, putting plastic washers will just make it arc to the bracket instead IF they are effective in insulating the core from the bracket, which I doubt. I think the fundamental problem is the breakdown of the insulation around the solenoids. The core to bracket is a side issue. Might be worth checking the solenoids with a multimeter. If they're not within spec, then you'd be better off with new coils, because you cant fix that. If they're ok then persist with the insulation.