MrStabby

Japs have very smooth tracks and IIRC they use spring rate, instead of sway bars, to control body roll. Try those spring rates out and let us know what you think

Yeah rate is too high unless maybe you are on VERY smooth tracks and using slicks. GTRs are over 1500kgs and 8/6 is a good starting point for track. If you're 50/50, and the suspension design is similar to R32/33/34s, i'd say 7/7 should be a reasonable start.

Run diagnostics via CONSULT, if that doesnt reveal anything get a dyno run to check AFRs. Sounds like its missing - could be AFMs/coilpacks. CONSULT/Dyno as above. Oil smell could be gearbox shifter boots dead. Cat is probably stuffed. Also your car could be running rich. Again, CONSULT/Dyno. I *think* running rich for a long time will eventually kill a cat. If you havent replaced the fluid yet, do that. Check that the alternator is charging properly, should be 14-14.8 volts IIRC. Usually if the voltage is low enough to affect the attessa ECUs you'll know about it because you cant start he car.... maybe check the voltage at the attessa ECU (under the parcel shelf). Or is it the HICAS ECU that causes this.... cant remember. Search for it. Powerfc would only be a bandaid over something that's not working properly, so bad solution IMO. Fix what's broken. It sounds like your mechanic has lower standards than you do, so you need to find someone better.

Maybe contact RIPSNZ and see what they use since they have a lot of experience with high HP RB2630s http://www.ripsltd.com/index2.html. Their email is; [email protected]

Mobile phone's use licensed radio frequency spectrum to transmit audio information (sound) encoded into data, and car alarm keyfobs use unlicensed RF spectrum to transmit lock and unlock codes. So, - they use different RF frequencies - they dont understand each other's data So - it sounds like bollocks to me, but i'm not an expert. Of course, people without security engineering backgrounds regularly design security systems. These systems are easily cracked because the designers assume that just because they can design a system that they themselves cannot break that it is therefore secure. WEP encryption from Wifi networks is an example of this.

If your one is broken it *may* be repairable. There was a thread on here about it, but i cant remember which forum. I guess Drivetrain and Transmission is the obvious starting point.

That sounds like this (from the Castrol AU FAQ) - Its to do with putting new fluid (any new fluid) in a transmission that's running very old fluid, not about synthetic with non-synthetic. "How to change the ATF? I have heard that there are occasions when it is not recommended to change the ATF, but what are these? It is not recommended to change the ATF in cars where no change has been performed for a considerable time (generally regarded as 50, 000Km from new, or 40, 000Km for K-cars), or where the maintenance history of the vehicle is unclear. Prolonged usage without an ATF change leads to a build-up of particles on the filter, resulting from wear of the gear and clutch parts, and of sludge, which accumulates as the oil deteriorates. An ATF change at this stage can cause these particles and impurities to circulate and jam into the shift valves or clog up oil ducts, creating more trouble. Furthermore, ATF changes are not recommended in cases of severe conditions of use such as towing or driving on punishing roads, or where there is an apparent problem with the Automatic Transmission operation. Not changing the ATF can cause an increase in 'shift-shock' and affect system line. It is generally recommended that ATF changes are performed at regular intervals of 20, 000Km or 2 years, whichever is first, although manufacturers recommendations should be observed. It is apparent that ATF has many important functions and must provide an extremely high level of performance. Recently the demands on ATF performance have been further increased with the rising application of Lockup Clutches in the drive for improved fuel efficiency. "

Jebuz! Is that on 98? Do the HKS turbos make more power than the -5s? I thought 400awkw was the limit of 2530/-5s on pump.

Your mechanic doesnt know what he's talking about. Give Castrol a call and ask them about mixing the fluids

That sounds like your tuner doesnt know how to tune d-jetro properly, so if you stay with that tuner, use afms.

1 x z32 afm = 370kw at the flywheel of measurable airflow. (Or so i'm told). Are you running one or two?

Since you have understandable issues with what users say publicly about workshops, could you setup a voting system where users can simply vote like or dislike for a particular shop? Users would not be able to make a comment, but their vote would be shown so other users could then PM them to ask for specifics. I see Trader rating is coming

It will feel more "neutral", it wont try to steer itself straight. I realise i'm not describing it well.... and i've only felt it in a GTST as my GTR had a lock kit when I bought it. In the GTST it made it very easy to get the car straight during a powerslide.

If you want grip, its about matching spring rate to the quality of road surface. If the road is rough, you will be faster on softer springs. If your roads are as good as a typical AU track, 8/6 will be about right. If they are worse than that, you will be faster on softer springs. Stiffer springs does not necessarily mean faster, just like lower doesn't necessarily mean faster.

The problem with lowering is that it changes the suspension geometry. Some of those changes can be addressed by adjustable bushes or arms, other you just have to live with. Depending on what your ride height is at now, 2 inches may be too far. Usually you want the wheel centerline to top of guard measurement to be 350mm front 340mm rear at a minimum, if you still want it to handle reasonably well. Re HICAS, AFAIK ride height is not the issue. Also, just calling it shit is stupid. It depends on how you're using the car, and what you like.

You should control roll with sway bars, not springs. Stiffer front springs are because skylines are nose heavy. I thought super streets were 6/4 ? Any stiffer than that for a street only car is a wank IMO, and will be worse for comfort AND roadholding.

Yeah you should have 14v on the power line. The 0.16 is probably the square wave signal from the ECU - does it go up when you rev? (based on my understanding of the theory - i've no first hand knowledge) EDIT: Actually IIRC the ECU switches earth not power, so the 0.16 might not change with RPM.

You'll want to reset the CAS position with a timing light after you re-assemble. Also there's spacers in the standard cover to ensure it sits at the correct distance, which is important for the CAS operation. If the distance is wrong you'll kill the CAS so make sure the new one has equivalent spacers or (if possible - i dunno i've never taken the cover off) use the spacers from the standard cover. Hopefully someone who has first hand experience can provide more detail/corrections.

That's what i was originally thinking - but its an auto!

Hitting redline easily = gearbox the most likely candidate (unless you're spinning the back wheels You would experience a slipping auto as a lot of revs but not much speed. It might just need a service, but you'll have to take it to a mechanic for a proper diagnosis. Dont drive it hard until its been looked at.

Guys getting quotes - make sure they include new idler and tensioners. And IMO you might as well do all the regular belts (aircon PS etc) while you're at it.

What leads you to believe there was a problem with the product and not the installation?

Yes they are directly comparable - its kg/mm. FWIW 8/6 is pretty stiff. If its a street only car, you'll probably want something softer (but it depends on what you like).

Excellent advice. Also, make a handwritten log of everything you do and say including with times and dates. Include notes of what the builder says.